Upgrading to 0Gauage What Fuses?

okay from what i heard, the fuse should match the amp, my amp has (3) 40A fuses, which is a total of 120A. So i got (3) 0 gauge ANL fuse holders with (3) 120A fuses. I will be running a second battery, a small Stinger SPV20, so i plan on putting 2 fuses between the front and back battery within a foot. then the other will go from the + alt to +bat.
also i heard you do not need to fuse the amp from second battery if your amp has built in fuses.
You heard wrong, man. You should definitely fuse that bad boy, even if it is a short run. You never know.

 
You heard wrong, man. You should definitely fuse that bad boy, even if it is a short run. You never know.
well i can do that, so how many fuses do i need between that one run of 0 gauge going from the front of the battery to the back battery?

The fuses are protecting the wire. Fuse to the capacity of the wire.
so i need to get rid of my 120A fuses and get 300A?

 
okay from what i heard, the fuse should match the amp, my amp has (3) 40A fuses, which is a total of 120A. So i got (3) 0 gauge ANL fuse holders with (3) 120A fuses. I will be running a second battery, a small Stinger SPV20, so i plan on putting 2 fuses between the front and back battery within a foot. then the other will go from the + alt to +bat.
also i heard you do not need to fuse the amp from second battery if your amp has built in fuses.
Fusing a 0 guage line at 120 amps is limiting the wire. 0 guage is designed to carry 300 amperes. If your amp is fused at 120 and that is the total max draw of the entire system you are ok. If you add more power in the future you will need to adjust your fusing accordingly. What I would do in this situation is fuse the 0 gauge at 300, and fuse within a foot of your amp to 120. Even if the amp has on board fusing. Think of the fuses as a safety net. You are protecting your cars electrical, and your equiptment from a short circuit. The point being where your fuses are needed is install dependent.

 
Fusing a 0 guage line at 120 amps is limiting the wire. 0 guage is designed to carry 300 amperes. If your amp is fused at 120 and that is the total max draw of the entire system you are ok. If you add more power in the future you will need to adjust your fusing accordingly. What I would do in this situation is fuse the 0 gauge at 300, and fuse within a foot of your amp to 120. Even if the amp has on board fusing. Think of the fuses as a safety net. You are protecting your cars electrical, and your equiptment from a short circuit. The point being where your fuses are needed is install dependent.
Yeah, see i have a 5 channel amp, and its all i need. Its on board fusing is 120A, i have a standard battery up front, but the one i also have in the rear is a stinger spv20. so basically my setup will look like this, and everything will be safe right?

DBDRAGGUY - So what your saying is that fuse that goes from the battery to the back battery should be 300A, and everything else can be 120?

fusing.jpg


 
Ok Ok back to 2 fuses on the run between batterys. Dont wanna burn my car down = ). Now i see the fuses on the amp matching your inline but ive never herd of a 160a fuse... i go either go 150 or 200.. I think ima go with a 200 because any short with 0guage wire gonna be pretty high amperage anyways. So now im going to run a 300 from alt to bat then ima run 250s within a foot of EACH battery and then a 200 going to amp. Hows that sound guys?? Should be covered???

 
I feel as if that the fuse before the back battery is almost not needed, due to the fact if the front fuse does pop then power will be cutoff from the back. The only way I see that fuse serving a purpose would be if say the front battery fails and power from the back battery is needed and then the power would be pulled to the front.

Don't know if that makes much sense, but its just my train of thought. Even if that extra fuse MAY be never needed, a fuse is the best insurance you can buy, therefore it will not hurt anything to have an extra one

 
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