Tuning my amp (Its confusing)



You need to set your gain w/ music on an O-scope...or by ear.

If you can't hear clipping w/ subs, you should either go to someone that can, or unplug your ears.

Clipping at 30-100hz (under 150db) should be CLEARLY AUDIBLE, but every track you play will have different levels of bass.

So, like someone earlier said....use your ears and nose.

 
I didn't see anyone mention it, so I will just to make sure its clear... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Set your DMM to AC voltage when you are testing the voltage from your speaker terminals, while setting the gain. If you have it on DC, it won't show much of any voltage during this test. The output from an amp is a sine wave, push-pull AC signal to the speaker.

 

Is your box as well built and designed as his? Is your amp as quality is his?(500 watts from a good amp is totally worlds apart from 500 watts from a cheapo amp) is your voltages as stable at 14.4V as his? Is your impedance rise at a good point or is it waay too **** high? Does your vehicle have a blow through hole to let the bass in the cabin like his? Its very different for each setup man and it takes work to get it loud. Its not just toss everything in and hope to god it flexes, sorry it almost never works that way buddy unless you have a crazy build and know what you are doing.

The sedona line from PPI is just like power acoustik pretty overrated.

To get your sh*t setup right FOLLOW these.

That being said, set your head unit level to 75-85% volume, use a -6 db 50hz test tone, subwoofer level all the way up. High pass and low pass filters on the head unit set to 80hz. Head unit EQ set to flat, bass boost set to none, loudness off. Subsonic filter set to 75% of your ported box's tuning frequency. Low pass filter on the amp at 80hz.

Doing it by multi-meter: just follow the guides

Doing it by ear: have the tone playing, subs hooked up, start turning the level knob from left to right slowly. When you hear it distort or the tonality of the bass starts to change, then you are done. If it stops getting louder then you are done. In both those situations back it off a slight bit.

Btw it looks like guy in the video looks like has an alpine mrp500, That amp puts out good power even with box rise and its a lot more efficient and clean compared to a ppi sedona.

 
My box is a custom box built by caraudiofab , Its ported and 32 hz , at 2.5 cu ft. i had a cabinet maker put it so its a sick box. I'm a little offended at the **** setup remark because the only reason i got the ppi was to go with 2 jbl gt5-12 in a ported box , but the box was to big and i got stuck with it.

I'm returning it tomorrow and getting a new amp , link me to a 500-600 watt amp for up to 200$.

Also how much watts can my vehicle take , Its a 1996 nissan sentra gxe , with a 70 amp stock alt , and a 20 amp battery which I just replaced with the old one.

I just want it to be loud and flex so I need to get this amp right , thanks for the help.

 
I didn't see anyone mention it, so I will just to make sure its clear... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
Set your DMM to AC voltage when you are testing the voltage from your speaker terminals, while setting the gain. If you have it on DC, it won't show much of any voltage during this test. The output from an amp is a sine wave, push-pull AC signal to the speaker.
I did use the ac voltage and got nothing , what do you mean push pull ac signal to the speaker.

 
Hoots....just try this.
On that PPI amp, set your LPF to about 50%....that 40-220hz range is crap. PPI used to be an outstanding brand, but now days...its just another Power Acoustik amp w/ another case (PPI, SoundStream, and power acoustik are owned by the same parent company now)

Use your HU's sub LPF....set that to 80-100hz.

As far as setting gain w/ a multimeter, well, EVERYTHING changes when you put an active load (a sub) and music in the mix.

Here is an OLD vid i did about setting gains w/ a multimeter...


I am returning this amp most likely and getting a better one , do you recommend one that is good 500-600 watts for up to 200$. By doing it by ear can I use a song like white clouds to set the gain or do i use a 50 hz test tone? I heard 50 hz puts strain on the subwoofer.

 
Use ur dmm it's the best for an average joe guy to use don't listen to that bs about using ur ear. Guy spouts some of the most idiotic shi*t on this forum. I guarantee you the average joe will be much closer to the correct setting using your DMM than your ear.

 
Use ur dmm it's the best for an average joe guy to use don't listen to that bs about using ur ear. Guy spouts some of the most idiotic shi*t on this forum. I guarantee you the average joe will be much closer to the correct setting using your DMM than your ear.
For one thing the amp is already questionable. What experiance do you have that gives you any right to say what he says is BS? Your setup is so advanced...

 
Use ur dmm it's the best for an average joe guy to use don't listen to that bs about using ur ear. Guy spouts some of the most idiotic shi*t on this forum. I guarantee you the average joe will be much closer to the correct setting using your DMM than your ear.
If it was the ppi phantom or ion series then I would say use the DMM but if an amp is overrated and does 300-400 actual watts, and you set it for 550 watts, you are at clipping bro.

I am returning this amp most likely and getting a better one , do you recommend one that is good 500-600 watts for up to 200$. By doing it by ear can I use a song like white clouds to set the gain or do i use a 50 hz test tone? I heard 50 hz puts strain on the subwoofer.
You can use audacity to analyze the spectrum of all your music and find out what hz it peaks at and what db level it is. Most bass intensive music is around -6db to 0db(rarely see 0, even decaf is most of the times in the -2 to -3 range) You can then generate a test tone of which amplitude and frequency and set your gains according to your music tastes. The test tone is to get a good ballpark, you can always play with the sub level afterwards and keep things safe. Like shizzon said, eyes, ears, nose and do test runs to see how hot your equipment gets along with monitoring your voltages because you amp will not do its rated power if you are dropping to 13v and being set for the wattage at 14.4V, you'll be clipping also.

PS: I wasn't trying to be mean earlier i was just making a point that each vehicle and situation will be different. Some vehicles are stronger structurally so you will get a lot less flex(which is good to be honest) Some are flimsy and can vibrate very easily. Cabin gain for every vehicle is different, you'll have to experiment around to set yours up to be the loudest possible.

also you read that in a wrong way. Not saying your setup is sh*T i'm saying it like "get your sh*t together" Sorry i live next to the ghetto bro.

 
For $200 you cam find plenty of good amps that do 500 get the soundqubed 750 tomorrow, or get something on sonic electronix tomorrow. Or get something used but for $200 500watts the possibilities are endles almost

 
Awesome thanks man that I might get the sounqubed and wire it at 2 at first , and if I want I guess i can try 750 at 1 , can my car handle that. Stock alt at 70 amps and 20 amp new battery , but its stock also.

 
Do you really think that the sedona is only putting out 300-400 watts? It sure feels like it , but i'm shocked they would lie like that....

 
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