Sony xplod 12 tuning

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You have to build the box and port with the intention of tuning at a certain frequency, you can't just change tuning. Unless you planned it that way.

What is the box you are using? Dimensions, port type and size?
 
My box is tuned to 32 HZ for my sub. The length of the port determined box tuning. If you bought a prefab box, they will almost always be tuned high. Even in the boxes with accurate listed specs, it’s still not correct. The specs listed is for an empty box. Once you put a sub in, the sub itself takes up space, lowers the air space and raises the port tuning simultaneously.
 
I have a Sony xplod 12 in a ported box that I’m trying to get around 32hz. It’s ran off a dual audio 1000 watt amp. How would I go about doing that
You don’t tune a box to play at the frequency you think you want, you tune the box to play optimally for the driver you are using. - the driver you use determines the tuning frequency of the enclosure. Prefab boxes are often tuned between 40 and 50Hz to almost work in a variety of applications but may or may not be optimal to your driver, again, the driver specifications determin the tuning frequency.
  • What is the exact model of woofer you are using?
  • What are the outside dimensions of the box?
  • Are the sides squared flush or recessed from any of the other panels (usually just the side panels will see recessed panels if applicable).
  • If recessed, how deep is the recess?
  • What is the thickness of the wood used?
  • Does it have a port and if yes is it a slot (square or rectangle) port or a round port?"
  • If yes to either, what is the diameter (round) of the port or the cross section (square or rectangle) i.e 2"x8",4"x 16"etc.
  • What is the lenth of the port?
  • Is there more than one port?
  • Provide this info and if IF can find the specs for the woofer, I can model it in BASS Box Pro and advise accordingly.
Keep in mind if you have a slot port, it's difficult to change these as they are usually part of the structural interior of the enclosure and are much more difficult to add ot subtract length to reach a desired frequency (shortening is almost impossible without destroying the box). Round ports, much easier!
 
Last edited:
You don’t tune a box to play at the frequency you think you want, you tune the box to play optimally for the driver you are using. - the driver you use determines the tuning frequency of the enclosure. Prefab boxes are often tuned between 40 and 50Hz to almost work in a variety of applications but may or may not be optimal to your driver, again, the driver specifications determin the tuning frequency.
  • What is the exact model of woofer you are using?
  • What are the outside disunions of the box?
  • Are the sides squared flush or recessed from any of the other panels (usually just the side panels will see recessed panels if applicable).
  • If recessed, how deep is the recess?
  • What is the thickness of the wood used?
  • Does it have a port and if yes is it a slot (square or rectangle) port or a round port?"
  • If yes to either, what is the diameter (round) of the port or the cross section (square or rectangle) i.e 2"x8",4"x 16"etc.
  • What is the lenth of the port?
  • Is there more than one port?
  • Provide this info and if IF can find the specs for the woofer, I can model it in BASS Box Pro and advise accordingly.
Keep in mind if you have a slot port, it's difficult to change these as they are usually part of the structural interior of the enclosure and are much more difficult to add ot subtract length to reach a desired frequency (shortening is almost impossible without destroying the box). Round ports, much easier!
It’s the XS-L1237 20 x 14 x 15 is the demensions 3/4 wood. 1 Rectangle port 12x 2 1/4 depth is 14 1/4
 
Well, this is going to be easy. That woofer is surprising given the cost and build. That said, it is not a good sub in a ported box, at all. The EBP is 35 and the Qts is 0.54, this is designed specifically for a sealed enclosure, 1 cubic foot enclosure to boot. If you want to take advantage of its high efficiency and very low Fs of 20.5Hz, stick it in a 1 cubic foot box stuffed with a pound of polyfil, that’s the best case scenario. I went ahead and modeled the woofer in your box with BASS Box Pro and there are some serious issues. The response curve looks more like Mrs. Toads wild ride – wobbly and peaky. The cone reaches maximum effectiveness at around 100 watts then the power loss (cone displacement) becomes a serious issue. That alone is a reason not to run this woofer in a ported box. You are throwing away valuable sound (volume) at anything over 100 watts, not good. Add just 25 watts to that and it starts to lose it for anything under 60Hz, effectively diluting its performance for anything below that threshold. So, the cheap option, seal off the port and stuff a .5 cubic foot block inside and stuff the remaining airspace with a pound of polyfill and you be able to give it the full 300 watts and have a much better sounding subwoofer than you currently have.

That box is clsoser to a ported box for a 10" not a 12". If you don't want to seal it up, this would be another option. It's a drop in for your box and models very well in your box.

 
Last edited:
Well, this is going to be easy. That woofer is surprising given the cost and build. That said, it is not a good sub in a ported box, at all. The EBP is 35 and the Qts is 0.54, this is designed specifically for a sealed enclosure, 1 cubic foot enclosure to boot. If you want to take advantage of its high efficiency and very low Fs of 20.5Hz, stick it in a 1 cubic foot box stuffed with a pound of polyfil, that’s the best case scenario. I went ahead and modeled the woofer in your box with BASS Box Pro and there are some serious issues. The response curve looks more like Mrs. Toads wild ride – wobbly and peaky. The cone reaches maximum effectiveness at around 100 watts then the power loss (cone displacement) becomes a serious issue. That alone is a reason not to run this woofer in a ported box. You are throwing away valuable sound (volume) at anything over 100 watts, not good. Add just 25 watts to that and it starts to lose it for anything under 60Hz, effectively diluting its performance for anything below that threshold. So, the cheap option, seal off the port and stuff a .5 cubic foot block inside and stuff the remaining airspace with a pound of polyfill and you be able to give it the full 300 watts and have a much better sounding subwoofer than you currently have.

That box is clsoser to a ported box for a 10" no a 12. If you don;t want to seal it up, this would be another option too. It's a drop in for your box and models very well in that box.

Alright thanks for the help man
 
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