tuning midbass enclosures with holes???

[yacob.naif 10+ year member]

i know, i searched, i read, i learned, i completely disregarded the whole 'porting midbass drivers doesn't do that much' but there's a reason...

seems the type-r comonent baskets weren't really optimally designed for use in a sealed enclosure, and even with foam baffles around the seat, i still have a small leak around the speaker itself. Small small small, as in it's still REAL hard to push the speaker in, but it doesn't just pop back out, it slooooowwwwlly springs back out....

So i thought trying to 'tune' the enclosure would be another way around possibly damaging the speaker by trying to caulk it into the box.

My question, then, is do i have to design a port to add to the box, whether it be a pvc aeroport, or a slot port mounted onto the face of the enclosures? Or can i just play, say, a 40hz tone through the speakers full tilt, and drill tiny 1/16" holes in the enclosure till output drops off, or the speaker starts flopping around?

Not really shooting for a ton more output, maybe a bit more if possible, more concerned with allowing the speaker to move without creating vacuum/pressure issues inside the box, it kinda makes them sound 'woody' (best word i could think of //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif really low notes sound mechanical, like they're resonating off the head of a snare drum)

thanks in advance, they sound 99% perfect now, don't want to ruin my enclosures, but i'm shooting for that extra 1%

Click to read more...

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

Once the speaker is sealed to the baffle, you won't have any "vacuum/pressure" issues anymore. The amount of air inside the enclosure will remain constant and thus the sealed enclosure will do its job.

If you try to tune it using just a bunch of small holes, you will end up with whistling noises. If you try to go with a port large enough to prevent noise, you will have trouble making it long enough to tune anywhere near as low as you seem to want to.

Staying with a sealed enclosure you can get away with a smaller airspace. The volume isn't that vital. Once you try to go ported, the volume of the enclosure becomes less tolerant of deviations from optimal. Get the volume and tuning wrong and it will sound bad.

It seems to me that you are expecting to get sub-bass output from your midbasses. They were not meant to play down as low as 40hz with any authority. That's what subs are for. Leave your midbasses playing above the 60-80 hz range and leave the lower stuff for the subs.

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

Miss the sticky at the top of this forum?

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=95925

Use and MDF ring and non-hardening clay...

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

nG

 

[yacob.naif 10+ year member]

i actually ended up making rings from dynamat, and now we're talking //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

not decent, not good, but IMPRESSIVE output down to 45hz, wow.....

And ^^ i'm not planning on x'ing my mids that low, i just want to have headroom, want to make sure i can get lower than i'll ever want to, just to know my enclosure is more than adequate, so i can just slam on my speakers at higher freq's.....

i'm xing them at 50/60 depending on the music. Sometimes higher, i haven't quite adjusted to the way it sounds with the mids blasting yet.

 

[Gary S 10+ year member]

You can seal speakers without ruining them or voiding warranties.

There is a unique product called Red Devil removable sealant... it's the best thing I have ever found for sealing speakers.

Google "red devil", go to the site, and order it online.

Happy 4th everyone !

 

[MikeyB 5,000+ posts]

Or silicone if sealing is a problem, you can basically just peel it off so its not really a big deal.