Trying to do Big 3, need help picking out supplies & few other questions.

sell/return your capacitor and buy a battery. and then send that battery to me because i need one
A bigger battery would just put more strain on the alternator and the alternator is what supplies the current to the electrical while the car is running anyway, if the voltage stays high enough. At least, that's the way I understand it? And if I got a battery I'd use it myself, nice try though! Haha.

 
I'd be willing to bet that if you put a dm on your battery it would be in the low 12s at idle,

I had the same problem many moons ago when I first threw a system in my car and somebody told me

"put a cap in there" that was advice from a circuit city car audio guy and I thought they had to

know what they're talking about cause they work there lol! A cap is like putting a band aid on

a leg thats been shot off.

 
I'd be willing to bet that if you put a dm on your battery it would be in the low 12s at idle,I had the same problem many moons ago when I first threw a system in my car and somebody told me

"put a cap in there" that was advice from a circuit city car audio guy and I thought they had to

know what they're talking about cause they work there lol! A cap is like putting a band aid on

a leg thats been shot off.
Which is why I already got an RMA return label from UPS for it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif.

What are you suggesting I do?

 
So again guys as akin to waht the thread was originally for, what kind of wires do I need to complete a Big 3 upgrade? Just ground wire? Or anything else?

Will this work for the ground wire? (5-10 feet of Knukonceptz product detail for KOLOSSUS FLEKS KABLE 4 GAUGE BLUE POWER/GROUND WIRE)

What else would I need, like for the :

1) Alternator Positive to Battery Positive (optional fuse)

2) Battery Negative to Chassis

3) Chassis to Engine Block

How would I go about putting a fuse on #1? Do I need it for my 400-460w RMS system?

 
Had to reread the thread cuz I forgot what was the issue,I forget how to do it of the top of my head but

with your engine running and all electrical devices on run a dmm on your battery and it shouldn't be

below I wanna say 12.4v, anything lower and you've got a bad batt. If you do the big3 and replace batt

and its still dimming bad then I would venture its an alt issue I.E not enough amperage. I am not an expert however

and this is just my edumacated guess on whats wrong.

as far as fusing the wire from alt to batt you dont need to do that, your just upgrading the path that current flows from alt to batt.

from batt to amp needs to be fused but check the rating of your wire and that will tell you what amp fuse you should use.

 
Had to reread the thread cuz I forgot what was the issue,I forget how to do it of the top of my head butwith your engine running and all electrical devices on run a dmm on your battery and it shouldn't be

below I wanna say 12.4v, anything lower and you've got a bad batt. If you do the big3 and replace batt

and its still dimming bad then I would venture its an alt issue I.E not enough amperage. I am not an expert however

and this is just my edumacated guess on whats wrong.

as far as fusing the wire from alt to batt you dont need to do that, your just upgrading the path that current flows from alt to batt.

from batt to amp needs to be fused but check the rating of your wire and that will tell you what amp fuse you should use.
You should fuse ANY wire coming off a battery. If its 4 gauge, use a 100 or 125 amp fuse.

 
So again guys as akin to waht the thread was originally for, what kind of wires do I need to complete a Big 3 upgrade? Just ground wire? Or anything else?
Will this work for the ground wire? (5-10 feet of Knukonceptz product detail for KOLOSSUS FLEKS KABLE 4 GAUGE BLUE POWER/GROUND WIRE)

What else would I need, like for the :

1) Alternator Positive to Battery Positive (optional fuse)

2) Battery Negative to Chassis

3) Chassis to Engine Block

How would I go about putting a fuse on #1? Do I need it for my 400-460w RMS system?
Fuse as close to the battery as possible. Your wire choice is fine. I use the same exact wire for my power wire to 2nd batt, 2nd batt to d block, and my big three. Its great.

 
You don't have to run a fuse from the alt to the battery.
You are correct, you do not HAVE to... but why not? It's ten bucks for a holder and fuse. And I would pay ten dollars for the peace of mind, because things DO go wrong sometimes. There are several good reasons to do it, and only two to not do it. Cheapness and/or laziness.

 
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