Truck box build started, huzzah! Pics

Lurius
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Well I started designing this a few days ago after I found that nobody makes a box that meets my wants/needs except Subthump, and id rather spend 180$ on supplies and tools that I can use over and over again, than on a prefabed box.

In Skectchup:

I ahev changed it a little, I dident want to cut too many angle cuts so the center hump is actually going to be rectangular inside and the outside front abd back pieces will be shaped as seen in the image below, gives it a cleaner look anyways.

243669.jpg


A couple pieces cut out:

243688.jpg


And a shot including the vehicle its going in when its finished:

243690.jpg


-Lurius

PS: I just got off the phone and aparently its not gonna be possible to fit these downfiring.. so I may have to do front firing.. =(

 
which progam are you using?
Im using Sketchup 5 pro.

You can get the beta of it for free @ http://sketchup.google.com/

Im running into problem after problem rofl. The RE SX's aparently wont fit, with the xmax they have it might bump on the carpet since this box is downfiring.. so, ive been looking around at other subs that would fit..

Treo SSI 12", and 10" should fit

Considering them, but I dont know, I need to find soem dealers and take some measurements.

-Lurius

 
why not just fire them up? I had an upfiring in my silverado for a while and really liked it. Also if you are doing a downfire be carefull to really check the fitment of the box towards the back of the center hump. It tends to come in on an angle so you have trim it kinda weird for it to sit down nice and snug. Also if you were to do an upfire you can FG the floor so the box fits exactly in there and you will save some extra room for mounting the subs and even a little airspace.

What is the mounting dept of the subs?

I have the subthump box and I highly recommend it but it is always fun to build your own box, i just didnt feel like doing that this time around with the 100+ degree weather i've been having

 
I cant lift the seat unfortunantly. I modified rear brackets to allow seat to fold forawrd a while back so that I could access amps(back cab wall). Lifting it even 1/4" would make it fold forward whenever I brake hard, stop suddenly, etc. I measured for that today =(

As for firing upwards, I really like the way downfiring sounds. I can deal with front firing, but would rather avoid it! Too many worries about them getting kicked by people, and I havent found any grills yet with enough clearance for the subs im looking at.

On a side note: I just got a countersink set with nifty quick change tool, has a double sided insert so I can quickly release, flip, and go from countersink to screwdriver head =D

-Lurius

PS: Mounting depth - The RE SX 10"s are 6.125", the Treo SSIs are 5.1875 foir the 10s and 6.375 for the 12s.

If I have too much more trouble i'll consider ripping out the backseat and putting in two buckets lol, then I can put a box between them lol, mounthing depth be ****ed!

 
I have seen a custom set-up with buckets but it is a lot of work for it to be safe, although it would be bad ***. You def dont want to do a subthump enclosure? I know those subs would fit def and save you a lot of trouble trying to get everything right. Good luck whatever you choose though

 
You def dont want to do a subthump enclosure? I know those subs would fit def and save you a lot of trouble trying to get everything right. Good luck whatever you choose though
I dont want to go with the prefab box because I already have a good design made up, and the oly restriction im having is that I have to make the bottom of the sub box higher to fit the subs I want, which then reduces the mounting depth which makes them no longer fit lol. Its a vicious cycle.

As it is now, I can fit the Treo 10"s in my current box, and in the new one im drawing up, but I would much rather fit the subs I originaly wanted, the RE SX 10s. Im still trying lol.

any progress?
No progress yet, still waiting to see if this will work or not, the only cuts I can make now are the front and back, but I need another 4x8 panel of 3/4" MDF to make them. The rest of the cuts are all dependant on the info I gather on wether or not I can fit these subs. If I cant fit the RE's downfiring, I can fit them in frotn firing..... IF i could find any **** speaker grills that allow enough room for the sub's excursion.
-Lurius

 
the subthump isnt exactly a pre made box, the guy builds it personally i believe because I had a problem when i first ordered one and he sent the wrong box and I got on the phone with him and he said he would build me a new one and add a few things but either way I know what your saying. If you have ever seen the ultra deep box, it has two spots that recess into the seat some which is why it is an ulta deep box, you could do that, I'm sure there is a little more room as well so it wouldnt be hard to do. Kinda like an underseat crew cab box if you ever seen one. I can show you pics of how it looks if you dont know what I mean by it being recessed into the seat......

 
I do know what you mean. My Probox does that. I was wondering how that guy got the 7" mounting depth all around on that box. Mine worked out at 7" but got more narrow at one way(towards the back) but luckily most of the magnets I had been looking at taped off, and only the peak mounting depth was present at the center of the base.

I'll check it out in sketchup and see if a raise in the center would help. Thanks! He dosent show the pics of the tops of the box on his site.

-Lurius

PS: Tried it out in shetchup - Im getting just under 6" depth with the floor raised to 3", how the plans are now. But adding an extra 5/8th" to the top(the top was mapped out to be 5/8's" MDF to help with clearance) it comes out to 6 1/2" Just barely ovr what I need for the SX 10", however, thats at the center, the sides of the magnet dont clear, i'd have to do like 2 laters of the MDF on top to clear it, and then the seats might not fold back down right! Bah.

 
I think im going to do the additional height above the subs.. Ive checked and double checked, and if I do this it will fit, but very tight! I'll just have to make the extra depth areas like 10" around. I figure I cna make a 10" MDF ring out of 5/8ths mdf, then a solid circle cutout of 5/8ths and connect them both over the hole i'd be cutting on the top part. Should work, and with 1 1/4" thickness added I can use some 1 3/4" scres to hold it down.

Hows this sound? Think it will be worth the trouble?

-Lurius

Thanks again fox_forma for the advice and ideas!

 
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Lurius

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