torn spiders?

[IamDeMan 5,000+ posts]

ok, so if the amps are putting out what they are rated for or less how is clipping an issue, genius? they are both torn along the ridges of the spider

Without real evidence of voltage measured by a dmm, how are we to believe your amps are putting out what they are rated and no more?

If they are tearing along the ridges then that is definite over excursion.

 

[cotjones 10+ year member]

Yes because volume and gain is always directly proportional //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif
Use a dmm and show everybody the numbers. The sonner you do that, then the sooner they will all shut up. Until then, you are juat a dumbass for using your ear or guestimation methods for dialing in that much power.

it isn't guessing if the amps and HU's put out what the say they do (and they should) them it is sett correctly for the way he wants it... a amps gain voltage determins what the input needs to be for the amp to reach maximum output... in this case if the outputs are 4V... setting the gain to 4V will make it so the amp's maximum output with respect to the HU output, is 1000 watts, but my freind can't turn his radio up to but about 50% volume so for him to get enough power out of his amp the gain should be set up to around 2V he i'm shure knows this and that would be the reason he turned it down even further to 3V. which should be more than enough gray area to prevent crossing the 1000w line from the amps, makeing thermal failure VERY unlikely

 

[cotjones 10+ year member]

Without real evidence of voltage measured by a dmm, how are we to believe your amps are putting out what they are rated and no more?
If they are tearing along the ridges then that is definite over excursion.

the over-excursion is not due to the AMPS... it is due to the ENCLOSEURE... wanna keep argueing this?

 

[Twistid 5,000+ posts]

Your headunit WILL NOT, I repeat WILL NOT put out 4V rms out the pre-outs... all the time.
In fact, it VERY rarely does.

nG

dude did you read this??

just because your preouts are rated @ 4 volts does not mean they will do it all the time

 

[IamDeMan 5,000+ posts]

the over-excursion is not due to the AMPS... it is due to the ENCLOSEURE... wanna keep argueing this?

I'm glad you can make an absolute statement without absolute data.

Listen, IMO I think the enclosure is just too big, making the driver mechanical handling too low. I won't say that the enclosure can't be the culprit. That is an obvious possibility. I am just agreeing with everyone else who is just trying to show you one big error in your tuning process that MAY or MAY NOT have to do with your particuliar problem right now. Sure as shit though, somewhere down the road your misunderstanding of gains and volume will do some damage. Don't be lazy, and learn how to measure. Volume is hardly ever directly proportional. Just saying you set for 2v because your only using half of the volume on the HU is LUDICROUS.

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

I never said it did... ???

You are, and have been repeatedly throughout this entire thread.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

nG

 

[jmanpc 5,000+ posts]

again read it yourself!!! i have said repeatedly that he want to have full power from the amps when the radio is at 50%..... to do this you would have to set the gain to 2V which is half of the total power of the preout... then by setting it to 3 volts he is turning it down even more makeing it reach full amp output(1000w) at 2/3 volume... or 3V output if you'd listened to me you'd know this to be true

Why don't you just do it the easy way and use something we call a MULTIMETER to set the gains. Then, you can know without a doubt that the gains are set right.

 

[Immacomputer 10+ year member]

this is rediculous... this thread consisded of these things in order:1.me asking a question

2.getting flamed with no answer

3.getting flamed with an answer to the question that i knew not to be true and had asked to be unconsidered

4. getting flamed more, explaining why i asked for thermal failure to not be considered

5.getting told that you knew the real answer the whole time you were flameing but just didn't say it because it seemed "too obvious" but infact some people did give the correct answer that i discovered to be true, and i thanked them

Leave and never come back and you won't have these problems. You don't want our knowledge anyways as you have everything figured out and you seem to only ask to see if we know.

Nobody wants you here.

 

[jmanpc 5,000+ posts]

this is rediculous... this thread consisded of these things in order:1.me asking a question

2.getting flamed with no answer

3.getting flamed with an answer to the question that i knew not to be true and had asked to be unconsidered

4. getting flamed more, explaining why i asked for thermal failure to not be considered

5.getting told that you knew the real answer the whole time you were flameing but just didn't say it because it seemed "too obvious" but infact some people did give the correct answer that i discovered to be true, and i thanked them

Then go to carstereo.com.

They're all dumbasses and you'll fit right in.

 

[cotjones 10+ year member]

dude did you read this??
just because your preouts are rated @ 4 volts does not mean they will do it all the time

that is absolutly true and aslo absolutely irrelevant... if any thing it helps my point... it's not even getting close to putting out 4V with volume at 50% it should be at about 2V and if anything... less

 

[cotjones 10+ year member]

You are, and have been repeatedly throughout this entire thread.
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

nG

i said that the output's maximum voltage is 4V but with his volume at 50% he should only be at about 2V....

 

[Odd-io 10+ year member]

Then go to carstereo.com.


They're all dumbasses and you'll fit right in.

 

[cotjones 10+ year member]

I'm glad you can make an absolute statement without absolute data.
Listen, IMO I think the enclosure is just too big, making the driver mechanical handling too low. I won't say that the enclosure can't be the culprit. That is an obvious possibility. I am just agreeing with everyone else who is just trying to show you one big error in your tuning process that MAY or MAY NOT have to do with your particuliar problem right now. Sure as shit though, somewhere down the road your misunderstanding of gains and volume will do some damage. Don't be lazy, and learn how to measure. Volume is hardly ever directly proportional. Just saying you set for 2v because your only using half of the volume on the HU is LUDICROUS.

i really don't understand why everyone is still argueing with me about this it's like talking to a brick wall!!! lets look at some of these facts...

1. it's not my car or system, i didn't set the gains, for all i know he could have used the multimeter, i know he knows how to...

2. this thread was started knowing that the cause wasn't thermal or over powering the coils but instead mechanical in the spider either due to box size or the fact that they share the same airspace... i made this clear yet was ignored and instead got preached to about how i don't know the proper way to set a gain... which isn't rocket science, however as i have said from the beginning, is irrelevant...

3.even a knowledgeable alpine person on here said he has never heard of a mechanical failure from the type-x's which even more suggests the 2 possibilities i mentioned and discounts over-powering... but again no-one would pay attension to these things and instead focused on telling me how un-knowledgeable i was about something as relatively simple as setting gains

 

[cotjones 10+ year member]

Leave and never come back and you won't have these problems. You don't want our knowledge anyways as you have everything figured out and you seem to only ask to see if we know.
Nobody wants you here.

no infact someone DID tell me something useful that i didn't think about and was mistaken about, and that is... the effect that enclosure has on max. mechanical power handling i thought that he was safe with his enclosure at 1000 wats because it was close to the max. reacomended seal enclosure

 

[req 5,000+ posts]

i give up.

i refuse to help somone who does not measure numbers with scientific equipment.

your logic is rediclious. guessing and assuming things will do what the label says does not work in car audio.