Tools/supplies needed for a box building shop

Yes tite bond 2 ftw. And harbour freight clamps also lowes ones are about twice the price for the same thing. Get a plunge router and a circle jog for cut outs. Get a fixed base router and a flush trim bit. I always make my panels bigger than I need them and just trim off the excess. Also Maybe a brad nailer / stapler. A good table saw. I also just purchased a 50" straight edge so I can rip big pieces of mdf down with a skil saw(man that was a good investment).

 
Yes tite bond 2 ftw. And harbour freight clamps also lowes ones are about twice the price for the same thing. Get a plunge router and a circle jog for cut outs. Get a fixed base router and a flush trim bit. I always make my panels bigger than I need them and just trim off the excess. Also Maybe a brad nailer / stapler. A good table saw. I also just purchased a 50" straight edge so I can rip big pieces of mdf down with a skil saw(man that was a good investment).
i got a table saw and a router i may or may not have the special circle attachments but i can get those pretty easy. For my circles im thinking use a jigsaw instead of a router and just get a special jigsaw circle attachment. Im probably going to use screws instead of a brad nailer just out of preference i may change my mind though once i start building boxes. Why would you rip with a skil saw if you have a table saw?

Also I just use the re calc to design my boxes. RE Enclosure Calculator
this is probably a retarded question but how do you go from band pass to port to sealed boxes with the calc?

 
When you build larger boxes the sizes often require more capability than the table saw will allow (most table saws max out at 36"). Titebond II is the best glue, and you use silicone on the interior seams after the box is built (and the glue is dried) to ensure airtight seal.

 
When you build larger boxes the sizes often require more capability than the table saw will allow (most table saws max out at 36"). Titebond II is the best glue, and you use silicone on the interior seams after the box is built (and the glue is dried) to ensure airtight seal.
thanks,as far as the table saw maxing out at 36 inches all you do is set up some sawhorses on the end of your table saw where wood comes out level with the table saw itself. Have one guy push in from the side while you push through and you'll get a perfectly straight cut with a pretty **** long piece of wood. Ive done it before with 6 foot long sheets of wood

that shit is off //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif
Ill just design my own boxes, I can design shit pretty easy since we had to draw house plans and all for my carpentry class a box plan will be relatively simple and my dad is also an engineer (currently) so he can help me out if necessary. BUT what i dont get is how do you determine how many cubic ft. a certain sub needs and how do you tune a box to a certain frequency.

+1 on large boxes. I have been building pretty dayum big boxes for customers and the table saw just wont cut it. So the straight edge and skil is a must. Re is off a bit but not bad.
nice maybe i can be a pro box builder to...someday //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
thanks,as far as the table saw maxing out at 36 inches all you do is set up some sawhorses on the end of your table saw where wood comes out level with the table saw itself. Have one guy push in from the side while you push through and you'll get a perfectly straight cut with a pretty **** long piece of wood. Ive done it before with 6 foot long sheets of wood

Ill just design my own boxes, I can design shit pretty easy since we had to draw house plans and all for my carpentry class a box plan will be relatively simple and my dad is also an engineer (currently) so he can help me out if necessary. BUT what i dont get is how do you determine how many cubic ft. a certain sub needs and how do you tune a box to a certain frequency.

nice maybe i can be a pro box builder to...someday //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Come on guy common sense the saw horses help nothing if you dont havea the cut you need. The rip fence is what we're talkin bout. Like my saw I think it does 34-36 or something well what if i need a 40" piece yea i could flip it if the other sides smaller but what if it's a whole sheet what then. Thats where the straight edge comes in. Ok you can design a box but you dont understand how to get cubic feet and tuning(fyi thats designing a box bro). Not tryin to sound like a dick but u gotta listen to what we are sayin. And im no pro by any means I just do a nice job at it.

 
thanks,as far as the table saw maxing out at 36 inches all you do is set up some sawhorses on the end of your table saw where wood comes out level with the table saw itself. Have one guy push in from the side while you push through and you'll get a perfectly straight cut with a pretty **** long piece of wood. Ive done it before with 6 foot long sheets of wood

Ill just design my own boxes, I can design shit pretty easy since we had to draw house plans and all for my carpentry class a box plan will be relatively simple and my dad is also an engineer (currently) so he can help me out if necessary. BUT what i dont get is how do you determine how many cubic ft. a certain sub needs and how do you tune a box to a certain frequency.

nice maybe i can be a pro box builder to...someday //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Come on guy common sense the saw horses help nothing if you dont havea the cut you need. The rip fence is what we're talkin bout. Like my saw I think it does 34-36 or something well what if i need a 40" piece yea i could flip it if the other sides smaller but what if it's a whole sheet what then. Thats where the straight edge comes in. Ok you can design a box but you dont understand how to get cubic feet and tuning(fyi thats designing a box bro). Not tryin to sound like a dick but u gotta listen to what we are sayin. And im no pro by any means I just do a nice job at it.

 
Come on guy common sense the saw horses help nothing if you dont havea the cut you need. The rip fence is what we're talkin bout. Like my saw I think it does 34-36 or something well what if i need a 40" piece yea i could flip it if the other sides smaller but what if it's a whole sheet what then. Thats where the straight edge comes in. Ok you can design a box but you dont understand how to get cubic feet and tuning(fyi thats designing a box bro). Not tryin to sound like a dick but u gotta listen to what we are sayin. And im no pro by any means I just do a nice job at it.
heres a quick rough diagram of what im saying to do.

learn.png


How would that not work ive used this method several times before with no issues at all.Not trying to be stubborn or douchey i just dont quite get what your saying

Also when you say your table saw maxes out at 34-36'' are you talking about its length? because you can just keep pushing the wood after it goes off the end of the table saw as long as you keep holding it properly which can take more than one person if its large.

 
I see what you're saying but I always work alone so having a second person push isn't an option for me. I wasn't referring to the length, I have several roller stands and an outfeed table, I was referring to the "rip capacity" which is the largest cut that you can do to the right of the blade (accurately, with the fence square). If the 2 man method works for you and you can be accurate, then that's great and you should use it, just not something I can do.

The RE calculator is off, box design is a science and an art if you intend to do anything outside of very basic design. There are some good basic guidelines that you can follow with acceptable results, but in general I think its one of the most misunderstood concepts in car audio. Most people think you should go by manufacturer specs or the world will end....a good designer/builder can almost always achieve better results with alternative designs. Testing and experience as well as the willingness to think "outside the box" and try new things are the keys to becoming a good designer.

 
I see what you're saying but I always work alone so having a second person push isn't an option for me. I wasn't referring to the length, I have several roller stands and an outfeed table, I was referring to the "rip capacity" which is the largest cut that you can do to the right of the blade (accurately, with the fence square). If the 2 man method works for you and you can be accurate, then that's great and you should use it, just not something I can do.The RE calculator is off, box design is a science and an art if you intend to do anything outside of very basic design. There are some good basic guidelines that you can follow with acceptable results, but in general I think its one of the most misunderstood concepts in car audio. Most people think you should go by manufacturer specs or the world will end....a good designer/builder can almost always achieve better results with alternative designs. Testing and experience as well as the willingness to think "outside the box" and try new things are the keys to becoming a good designer.
ah i see, well if you work alone that definitley wouldnt be an option. Thanks for the advice on box design ill be sure to tread carefully into the box building arena //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
I find that the easiest way to cut large sheets down to size is by laying them on a 2x4 frame on the floor and using a home made T-Square that is perfectly square to the factory edge and 4 feet long. One end of the square has a cleat that is placed along the edge of the sheet while the T portion rests on top of the sheet and serves as a guide for your circular saw. You make one mark where you want to cut, lay your T square guide flush with the sheet edge and cut away. You end up with perfectly square cuts every time.

Where the guide line is you simply run your saw across it and it'll give you exactly where to start your cut if you line it up with your mark.



 
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