Too much muffled bass

Is the deck cross over a better way to get sound or the amp crossover? 

---------- Post added at 09:58 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:57 AM ----------

 

Plus my back seats prove to be one hell of a muffle causer
If you hacve the ski (beer) hatch you can fold it down like an armrest all the time...I did that in my Mercedes CLK and removed the plate that was behind it ...It made a big differnce ..

 
If you hacve the ski (beer) hatch you can fold it down like an armrest all the time...I did that in my Mercedes CLK and removed the plate that was behind it ...It made a big differnce ..
he folded down the seats and didnt notice the muddiness peaky bass go away. Its his whole system tuning going out of whack because of his EQ boosting the 50hz peak way too high. Thats what the "powerful" setting does. Along with killing subs for breakfast.

 
Your EQ should not be at powerful Keep it at flat and rest your gains again its completely set wrong and the EQ will screw up your bass and kill your subs All bass frequencies should be flat. Anything above 80hz can be tampered with to get the sound you want but underneath that is forbidden. SLA should be at 0. Low pass filter on the amp should be wide as in the higest it can go. You want to use the low pass filter on the head unit set to 80hz. Low pass cuts off the frequencies above so it blocks out vocals from the subs. However, if you set it too low like you have with your amp ATM, you are missing out on all the kick drums aka midbass from rock and metal.
Gains should be reset set again properly after these changes. Volume knob on the head unit should be as high as your speakers can get without distorting. Then play a bassy song and slowly turn up your gain. When you hear the sub start changing to a different pitch, then you need to back up the gain a bit. OR if it stops getting louder, that means you are at clipping(dangerous levels) back it down slightly if that happens.
I really appreciate the help but do you mind telling me what to do in "stupid" form? I'm kinda new to this stuff and don't know all the lingo yet

 
Thats the same deck I have to check out for a friend shortly...He said it just started getting a whining noise...I hope they dont have pico fuses but it sounds like the problem from the description...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 
I really appreciate the help but do you mind telling me what to do in "stupid" form? I'm kinda new to this stuff and don't know all the lingo yet
EQ change from powerful to flat then go to custom EQ and see what does what and play around with it to get the best sound for you, just remember not to boost too much. Do not fk with anything that changes your bass output or sound in the EQ options set those to zero/flat.

SLA - set to 0

low pass filter (located around subwoofer options) - set to 80hz

Sub level - max

Head unit volume - high as your speakers/ears can handle without distorting.

Play a rock song, go back and turn the gain up until the bass doesnt feel like its getting any louder. When it gets to that point, back it off slightly.

 
So basically what you're saying is turn SLA off turn bass boost off turn sub control to 80 or 100hz turn HPF to 80 or 100hz turn EQ to flat and turn the volume as far as it can go before clipping/distortion and readjust the gain level, turn cross over level as far as it will go and turn off bass boost?

 
15lbs is not much for a 10 inch box. That box you have already looks too small to be honest. Pre-made boxes are generally garbage and they lie on specs all the time.
I checked out kickers specs on the sub and it says at least 1.5 cubic feet of space to work "properly"

 
So basically what you're saying is turn SLA off turn bass boost off turn sub control to 80 or 100hz turn HPF to 80 or 100hz turn EQ to flat and turn the volume as far as it can go before clipping/distortion and readjust the gain level, turn cross over level as far as it will go and turn off bass boost?
yes to all that. Use a rock song to set the gains again to get the appropriate output. However if you play bass heavy music or hip hop, you need to turn it down since bass in recording levels are different and it directly affects the amplifier power output. Same concept, if it stops getting louder, back it off.

I checked out kickers specs on the sub and it says at least 1.5 cubic feet of space to work "properly"
yup, kickers need big boxes.

 
yes to all that. Use a rock song to set the gains again to get the appropriate output. However if you play bass heavy music or hip hop, you need to turn it down since bass in recording levels are different and it directly affects the amplifier power output. Same concept, if it stops getting louder, back it off.


yup, kickers need big boxes.
So get a different seal box. Hahaha. In the sub control menu I can set the hz level, then the next set is sub boost or volume? Like -1-2-3 +1+2+3, set that to the highest? Or keep it at 0?

 
So get a different seal box. Hahaha. In the sub control menu I can set the hz level, then the next set is sub boost or volume? Like -1-2-3 +1+2+3, set that to the highest? Or keep it at 0?
Thats called a subwoofer level. Dont worry, its not a bass boost thats actually gives you the proper pre-out voltage signal you need. It does not distort the signal by adding in bass that is not there to begin with like bass boost does. It helps get a strong signal to the amp so the amp can output proper power.

In short, set that to max,

You can try adding polyfill to the box if you are on a budget.

 
Thats called a subwoofer level. Dont worry, its not a bass boost thats actually gives you the proper pre-out voltage signal you need. It does not distort the signal by adding in bass that is not there to begin with like bass boost does. It helps get a strong signal to the amp so the amp can output proper power.
In short, set that to max,
Where is a good place to get boxes? I wanna get one with a decent bit of space inside

 
Where is a good place to get boxes? I wanna get one with a decent bit of space inside
build your own. Not that hard. Go to home depot, buy the wood, have them make the cuts for you, take it home, glue and screw then borrow a jigsaw from a friend/neighbor/relative and cut the subwoofer hole. Viola you are done. Way cheaper and higher quality than pre-built junk places. Never EVER buy a prefab in your life ever again if you have any respect for your subwoofers.

Free box plans, I'd go with the 2@35hz #2 and #3 OR the 2.5@32hz box. Those would get you slamming properly.

*OFFICIAL* Free Ported Box Plans (56k NO!!) - Dodge SRT Forum

This is one of the members that had no idea how to build a box and attempted to do with with that exact 2.5 cubic feet at 32hz design.




If You really really dont want to build one. Hit up https://www.facebook.com/Cscstang-customs-544782418996602/photos_stream For a box

 
I

build your own. Not that hard. Go to home depot, buy the wood, have them make the cuts for you, take it home, glue and screw then borrow a jigsaw from a friend/neighbor/relative and cut the subwoofer hole. Viola you are done. Way cheaper and higher quality than pre-built junk places. Never EVER buy a prefab in your life ever again if you have any respect for your subwoofers.

Free box plans, I'd go with the 2@35hz #2 and #3 OR the 2.5@32hz box. Those would get you slamming properly.

*OFFICIAL* Free Ported Box Plans (56k NO!!) - Dodge SRT Forum

This is one of the members that had no idea how to build a box and attempted to do with with that exact 2.5 cubic feet at 32hz design.


Wouldn't you know I'm a carpenter by trade? Haha. I'd just get the material, MDF or plywood? And I'd use drywall screws, caulk all the seams and what not. I think I have a jigsaw somewhere too

 
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Wouldn't you know I'm a carpenter by trade? Haha. I'd just get the material, MDF or plywood? And I'd use drywall screws, caulk all the seams and what not. I think I have a jigsaw somewhere too
Thats basically it. 13 layer pine plywood or mdf. Use 3/4 size thickness and drywall screws and titebond II wood glue. Shouldnt cost you more than 40 dollars total for a super sturdy great bass output box. Wait a day for the caulk to dry. The vapors can eat at the sub's surround.

 
I
Wouldn't you know I'm a carpenter by trade? Haha. I'd just get the material, MDF or plywood? And I'd use drywall screws, caulk all the seams and what not. I think I have a jigsaw somewhere too
Its just a few bucks more go ahead and get a sheet of 3/4 birch...especially when doing a ported box as Jeff recommended...It will be less weight on your suspension...and birch is a very dense wood...

 
Its just a few bucks more go ahead and get a sheet of 3/4 birch...especially when doing a ported box as Jeff recommended...It will be less weight on your suspension...and birch is a very dense wood...
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/thumbsup.gif.3287b36ca96645a13a43aff531f37f02.gif I second this if you have a few extra bucks to spare. Light as hell, strong as F**ck no need to pre-drill anything.

 
I'm taking it back to the place I got it because it's free for me to let someone who knows what to do to f*k with it. If it doesn't work out in just gonna get my money back and just save up to buy a really nice system

 
I'm taking it back to the place I got it because it's free for me to let someone who knows what to do to f*k with it. If it doesn't work out in just gonna get my money back and just save up to buy a really nice system
dude, how shops are nowadays, Most of them dont know how to tune for sh*t, some are bad enough that even destroys your equipment. Just follow what i said and it should sound a lot better. You gotta know a little car audio knowledge yourself to spot the good shops from the bad.

 
dude, how shops are nowadays, Most of them dont know how to tune for sh*t, some are bad enough that even destroys your equipment. Just follow what i said and it should sound a lot better. You gotta know a little car audio knowledge yourself to spot the good shops from the bad.

So true. Their in it to sell....and make the "bigger named companies" $$.

 
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