The new 4th gen Type R's

yeah it does, but look up on alpine's website and the manual says 1.9cu tuned to 33hz. guys on here say it's 2.5cu and 35hz is best. but this is a prefab company. i've had a few different systems in the past and never made my own box. never had an issues.

 
type Rs aren't that impressive.. ive heard DD 1500s kill them for 25 bucks more..
LMFAO hahahaha a sub that can handle 1500rms for 275 a pair yea right dude.... please.... I'm still laughing hahaha... ha...hahahaha..... ok I have to breath at some point

 
yeah it does, but look up on alpine's website and the manual says 1.9cu tuned to 33hz. guys on here say it's 2.5cu and 35hz is best. but this is a prefab company. i've had a few different systems in the past and never made my own box. never had an issues.
I got the 2.0 (1.9w/sub) but I don't know how to figure out what hz it's tuned to. Anyone have a formula

 
LMFAO hahahaha a sub that can handle 1500rms for 275 a pair yea right dude.... please.... I'm still laughing hahaha... ha...hahahaha..... ok I have to breath at some point
type Rs cannot handle anywhere near a true 1500 RMS nor can the 1500s..

the DDs are so much better built its not even funny..

 
1500 should be okay... I ran the 3rd generation 12s and the pair was seeing 1700 watts from an Orion 2500D w/ no clipped signal... They did get hot after a few minutes at full tilt though.. 2.4 cubic feet each @ 35 hz.

 
very few people properly set their gains.. most 1500s with a stock electrical system clip way before 1500.. and we all know how much additional heat clipping introduces.. I say for the few extra dollars i was much more impressed with the dd1500 and the AA arsenal.. the new type Rs are a different woofer.. sure there going to handle around 750 clean in the correct install but i promise you there not going to last nearly as long when abused..

 
very few people properly set their gains
I would be one of those people, I just

1: turn every thing all the way down gain/bass/hz including the deck bass/booster.

2:Then I turn the deck to full tilt and adjust my speakers so they can handle full tilt.

3:then I proceed to turn the gain up just b4 it starts to send a clipped signal or the headlights start to dim really bad. Then adjust the hz for lows and highs to watt ever seems to be a happy median "usually low in vented".

Idk how to do it w/ DMM but I'm sure its not hard. I've just never learned. I can tell you I've never blown any subs from thermal meltdown, and I have subs that are so old that they literally squat in their basket's when their on their backs. Thats just shows how tired the spider and suspension is.

I have fried a few amps though, do to pushing them in loads they were never intended for or bridging, or under voltage .I've Never clipped subs to death though

 
they have a 2.5 inch vc thats abit over 40mm long.. per driver they can handle a clean 750 but i wouldn't ask much more of them..

you wanted advice for an alignment? If you want them to sound good Id do medium sealed or a smaller PR alignment.. they sound decent ported with low tunes.. there really just a very peaky design hence there praised as being loud.. sealed 600 RMS is more than enough to get them moving ported they will mechanically handle around 1200 or so as long as its above tuning..

sealed id use 1 to 1.25 ported for SQL as they say 1.8 tuned to 28 does nicely.. its you want it loud for rap try 2 tuned to 34-38..

 
try this calculator and see what it saysRE Enclosure Calculator
Thanks man, I guess I missed your reply the first time... I cant really get an acurat number cuz I can't change port height in the calculator. I can't get port area since It's baffled not just an L port. I cant just say its 3/4 when it has 1" face plates and 3/4" baffle's and divider. I guess I'll call Atrend and see what they say.

 
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