The infamous capacitor discussion

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

I agree with you, but I want to make sure someone else reading this doesn't think they can do this on any vehicle. Similar to how caps can help, but it's still a no no to advise someone to use a cap to help with voltage drop

Maxwell and XS caps are the only ones I do recommend. Those will help.

I never recommend mainstream ones

 

[Tripn88]

I still think he has a major problem and should find that before using a "band aid".

What's all your wiring look like? Ever do a big 3? Clean all your connections battery included.

 

[LongThrow]

Similar to how caps can help, but it's still a no no to advise someone to use a cap to help with voltage drop

Why?

If it does it when the system off like you said then it isn't the problem.
Sometimes mine will drop to 13 then jump back up when the alt kicks back on. Have the shop check your alt with a load multiple times back to back.

Autozone tried to tell me my starter wasn't bad because when it was cold worked. I asked them to run it back to back and sure as **** 3rd time was the charm. Got hot enough wouldn't engage. Could just be a faulty alt or regulator. Honestly you should be able to start a car and disconnect the battery if it dies the alternator is bad. That's how I've always checked mine. (Certified shade tree mechanic) lol

It does it with the system turned on. I tried this method, the car stayed on, didn't stutter or stall out.

An explorer of that year wouldn't have its charging system controlled by the PCM, just internal reg on alternator. My 87gt came with an 85 amp alternator which at idle produced maybe 30a. I did the 3g 130 upgrade then when I put on an electric fan and 1K wrms of audio and it performed fine with no dimming. My 03 f150 has the stock 130a alt. and as of now I'm running at the most 1.6K wrms and only have dimming at high volume. I did do a big 4 tho. If you are only running 650 wrms that 95a alt. is prolly your prob. especially if you are at idle running your system. That alt. likely doesn't charge 95a at idle, more like 40-50. Get a 130a, shouldn't be that much. The 130 3g should fit that explorer with minimal mods, if any. Then do big 3.

So my alternator doesn't have a high enough amp-rating to power my vehicle and it's audio system/vehicle accessories?

Sounds to me like a very bad ground loop either caused by the amplifier ground or your amp power wiring.Sent from my draconis using Tapatalk

When I accelerate, I sometimes hear a whiney pitch in my door speaks that co-elate with my throttle.

As you're experiencing - when trl]hey act up, they don't always do it constantly, and they don't always do it when they're cold. When my 130A failed on the road I took it off and took it to the store for warranty replacement, but the thing tested fine. I had to get semi-nasty with the store insisting that just because it tests fine for a minute or two in the 70 degree store doesn't mean it works under the hood at ~150 degrees after a 30 mile drive.

Never thought about that. Maybe I should drive it for an hour and take it into them scalding hot //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/satan.gif.9c6a335ed7aeeed3ee273e573f1fcaac.gif

reputable mechanic shop that works with alternators often would be ideal.. give them some time to figure it out. that's really the most likely thing it could be besides a bad battery/alternator/pcm or bad grounds.

I wouldn't recommend disconnecting the alternator while it's running.. very bad idea. Might work on older vehicles but you risk frying things on newer vehicles

I was told as long as it's an older vehicle you should be safe.

And maybe I should add a few more symptoms, when I'm accelerating, and immediately let off the pedal all at once, the voltage drops. I'll be driving consistently say at 30 or 45, and I'll remove all throttle, it'll drop. Or if I'm driving slowly and then gun it quickly, and let off all at once, I have a voltage drop every now and then. I have voltage drops when I turn on my blinker, roll my window down, turn my headlights on, turn my fan on. And I have voltage drops with my stereo turned off.

 

[bigfluke 773]

If you did the big 3 and have a pcm/ecu controlled alternator, you need to run the ground from the alternator to the battery, in front of the sensor that is on your stock ground. It looks like a little black box on your ground wire.

 

[LongThrow]

If you did the big 3 and have a pcm/ecu controlled alternator, you need to run the ground from the alternator to the battery, in front of the sensor that is on your stock ground. It looks like a little black box on your ground wire.

"An explorer of that year wouldn't have its charging system controlled by the PCM, just internal reg on alternator. "

^ as quoted by AcMekanik

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

Have you taken it to a reputable alternator shop yet? We have general knowledge but still limited because it's difficult to diagnose a vehicle we can't see/test/hear/smell/touch/feel - well you get the point

You've gotten solid advice from many people. Until you take that next step this is going nowhere

 

[LongThrow]

Didn't mean to quote everyone in that last post. My bad.

 

[cavready21]

May sound dumb, but does your radiator fan kick on when your voltage drops while sitting at a red light?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[sounds_explicit]

it could.. you can turn your car on and remove the terminals from the battery leaving just your alt supplying the power to keep your car running.

before i started using voltage meters to see my voltages and was hella noob. i was pulling way too much power i could produce my car stalled a few times even when driving thats how low the bass hit and made my voltages drop. if it didnt stall. it would feel like i hit the brakes like it was going to stall.

but anyways. i would never personally use a cap. imo they are for other electrical needs other than car audio. they might work well in some situations depending on pwer consumption but on bass or subs i think that they are a total waste.

 

[dev199505]

It sounds like a bad alt. Time for an upgrade

Sent from my HUAWEI Y536A1 using Tapatalk

 

[LongThrow]

It sounds like a bad alt. Time for an upgrade
Sent from my HUAWEI Y536A1 using Tapatalk

Had alt tested with a load back to back. It's also brand new. Was doing this before I replaced alternator.

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

Charging System Basics

 

[LongThrow]

I still think he has a major problem and should find that before using a "band aid".
What's all your wiring look like? Ever do a big 3? Clean all your connections battery included.

Factory wiring as far as alternator and battery goes. Terminals could be replaced, but aren't corroded or dirty. Going to scrap them shiny just to be sure, and I'm going to invest in some 1/0 wire for my Big 3 upgrade. Welding cable, or knuconceptz?

Using 4g knu fused with 80a to my sub amp. distroed from 4g to 8g goes to my door speaker amp fused at 80 (i know i should use more like a 50a but all i have is a 80a laying around.havent had any problems with it)

 

[LongThrow]

Charging System Basics

Can't believe I didn't see that, I've read bcae.com a million times. Lights get dimmer when engine is off, so I pass that test. And nice bit about unplugging the battery while running, it does cause damage - didnt know that.

When idiling with car on, voltage 14.2-6 With car off, it shows 12.4-13.0 depending on how quickly I test it after turning the vehicle off. It only spikes 2-4v when idling at a stop light, and it's momentary. Might do it for 4 seconds, stop, 4 seconds later does it again, and then it stops. Headlights flutte at idle in park when I rev the car up. When I'm accelerating at a good pace, and immediately let off the gas all at once sometimes I'll have a voltage drops and my lights dim

 

[Tripn88]

Sounds like grounding issue somewhere. Also 1/0 welding wire is cheap on wireandsupply.com.