The big 3 caused more harm then good?

[bhsdriller 10+ year member]

That is the same question my buddy asked, but I really didn't notice it being that much louder. Also on the factory volt gauge on chevy's it reads 9 for the lowest, 14 in the middle, and 19 at the end. Mine will sit I think at about 12.5-13 when playing full blast while driving.

I wouldn't trust the stock volt meters on the dash....get a volt meter or dmm and hook it up directly to the amp inputs to see what the voltage is at the amp

 

[oxsign 5,000+ posts]

You should really think about investing in a stinger (or other brand) voltage meter. I wouldnt put all my truck in the factory meter. That's not going to tell you what your amp is seeing or anything else in in that truck for that mater.

 

---------- Post added at 12:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:49 PM ----------

 

**** it, lol. bhs posted at the same time, lol.

 

[Kingstroker 10+ year member]

I would shy away from aluminum lugs on any application with any movement or vibration, over tightening can also cause them to crack. When I ran aluminum wire to my shop I applied an anti-oxidation gel to the connections, it would probably not hold up to automotive applications do to exposure. A factory amp gage is only meant to show charging or not. Do not trust them unless you have verified them with a multimeter.

 

[sw3ll3r3 10+ year member]

Wow okay I didn't realize that the factory volt meter can't be trusted, thank you! So any stinger volt meter will do the trick? Also I re did the install and I took videos. But for some reason this time my voltage was not much different, the only time it was bad was at a red light, but since im at idle that is a given. I changed the waay the in-line fuse was hooked up also. My step dad changed it because the casing wouldn't close. He took it all apart then lugs on bottom, nut, washer, inline fuse, washer, lock washer, nut. Obviously this is not standard procedure so I changed it to (nut, washer, lugs, fuse, washer, lock washer, nut) Im pretty sure that is how it is supposed to go.

What else could I do to upgrade my electrical? Another Alt?

 

[sw3ll3r3 10+ year member]

I'm looking for a dirt cheap 4 channel. I found one brand new on ebay, 125 Rms, its a VM audio?

New VM Audio SRA1200 4 1200W 4 Channel Car Amplifier Power Amp MOSFET Stereo | eBay

It has a one year warranty. What do you guys think?

 

[i2ain2thunder 10+ year member]

Things that will improve electrical:

Better amplifier (more efficient)

More wire OFC is best

High conducive connectors

extra batteries (agms) or others made and designed for high power demands. Odyssey, Kinetic, Deka, Batcap, Optima, XS

Higher output alternator, or dual alternators.

First thing I would do is add batteries, with a HO alt, even if it's half decent and 1/0 wiring with the big 3 done shouldn't need much more than a couple batteries. How to tell how you're doing electronically? Check voltage amp sees while heavy hitting bass. Make sure not to drop much below 12.6 volts, however dropping from 14.5volts to about 12.6volts is common and perfectly acceptable. You may have headlight dimming, sometimes that is hard to avoid headlights are very sensitive to voltage changes.

 

[sw3ll3r3 10+ year member]

Things that will improve electrical:
Better amplifier (more efficient)

More wire OFC is best

High conducive connectors

extra batteries (agms) or others made and designed for high power demands. Odyssey, Kinetic, Deka, Batcap, Optima, XS

Higher output alternator, or dual alternators.

First thing I would do is add batteries, with a HO alt, even if it's half decent and 1/0 wiring with the big 3 done shouldn't need much more than a couple batteries. How to tell how you're doing electronically? Check voltage amp sees while heavy hitting bass. Make sure not to drop much below 12.6 volts, however dropping from 14.5volts to about 12.6volts is common and perfectly acceptable. You may have headlight dimming, sometimes that is hard to avoid headlights are very sensitive to voltage changes.

I'm not disagreeing to what you have stating, so don't take it that way. I was told adding a second battery would result in much worse performance because it's creating a larger demand on my alternator, is this true?

 

---------- Post added at 02:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:02 PM ----------

 

I'm not disagreeing to what you have stating, so don't take it that way. I was told adding a second battery would result in much worse performance because it's creating a larger demand on my alternator, is this true?

Stated**

 

[i2ain2thunder 10+ year member]

I'm not disagreeing to what you have stating, so don't take it that way. I was told adding a second battery would result in much worse performance because it's creating a larger demand on my alternator, is this true?

Technically that is true. Anything added to the electrical circuit will increase the demand on the alternator. So as a rule of thumb if you are dropping down to your battery's resting voltage it is a good idea to get another battery. If you maintain Voltage higher than 12.6 another battery is not really needed. The amount of strain put on the alternator from an additional battery is actually very little.

I've always been told to have the same brand/type for all batteries in the circuit as well as they can hurt one another, I think thats due to drain if one is higher voltage than the other. Right now I have missmatched 2 batteries in my vehicle but they rest at the exact same voltage 12.6(while disconnected that part is important). I've been considering ponying up to prevent harm to my batteries, but they have been running so well for 2+ years now so I think I'm plenty ok.

There has been arguments both ways for what is most important adding batteries, or another or higher output alternator. I think it depends on the situation. I don't however believe much in how adding batteries will add a lot of strain to a system hurting it electronically. Think of it this way, the power your equipment gets (and people will tell you electricity flows from highest voltage to lowest in a circuit, so technically just getting the highest power alternator/s you can should suffice. But in reality the way I see it anyway, people may dissagree Think about a 10,000 watt system. If you have a system that powerful You need to do everything you can upgrading wires/alternators, and adding batteries. This is the standard process for pretty much all competitors. People that compete will make sure they have the power necessary by upgrading not only the wires, but also the alternator and add multiple batteries.

 

[oxsign 5,000+ posts]

I'm not disagreeing to what you have stating, so don't take it that way. I was told adding a second battery would result in much worse performance because it's creating a larger demand on my alternator, is this true? 

---------- Post added at 02:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:02 PM ----------

 

Stated**

"IF" you do have the high output alt andding a second battery would be the next best thing. A 240alt will be able to charge a second battery no problem. However, make sure the first battery you have now is good as well.

 

[Jerhemy 10+ year member]

lots of good info in this thread! glad someone brought up the voltage drop likely being due to less "bottlenecking" of the flow and the amp if using more powa to make more powa, causeing a heavier drain on the batt and such.

I would definitely get a nice battery next for under the hood, something like a diehard platinum from sears... give it a GOOD full charge before putting it in your car and that should help level out your voltage I would say, by giving you a bit better reserve. Adding a second battery in the back by the amp would also be a good idea.

 

[WinC101 10+ year member]

Holy fack balls......
1. The alt doesn't do 240 amps...period. At idle I would bet around 70 amps tops. Hot....and 1400 rpm....maybe 150.

2. No matter what you think, or how you think......less wire is never better......PERIOD.

3. I have seen plenty of industrial electricians who can't do jack in a 12v world with a stereo. He could work for NASA building navigation circuits and not know how to properly wire a stereo.

4. Most of the guys in here gave ya the right advice....either take it or leave it. Don't argue.

This **** ^^^^^^^^^^!!!!!! PERIOD SON!

 

[sw3ll3r3 10+ year member]

This **** ^^^^^^^^^^!!!!!! PERIOD SON!

Once again if you're going to be a ****, why post?

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

Once again if you're going to be a ****, why post?

There are some people that just won't pay attention to things written in a civilized and presentable way. Not specifically saying you are one of them, but I will say you seemingly have ignored some legitimate advice ITT.

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

I think your electrical should be fine for a nice 2k amp like that. With proper wires and connection, and a good alt. The only thing I would change is getting a Sears Die Hard Platinum for under the hood. Also, check your voltage with a DMM, factory voltage gauge is worthless.

I don't think you need another alternator or a bunch of batteries in the back, for the moderate amount of power you're running.

Also, I wouldn't waste my money or time on the VM Audio. I'd be patient and get a quality piece of equipment for a few dollars more somewhere on our classifieds. You get what you pay for though.

 

[tommydh 10+ year member]

Try just doing the 2 ground upgrades from the big 3 and see where you are but what I'm thinking is Ohms law is taking effect. Adding the larger gauge charging wire you in effect are lowering the resistence hence lowering the voltage. With the higher output on the alternator itr may take a larger load to gret the voltage at 14.4 or look into a voltage regulator but remeber your vehicle is a 12 volt system.