Teh Teebone door pod worklog

see if a first time dunce like myself can make it, then anyone can //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif also what piece of wood are you talking about? the piece of wood is the back of the pod
i think we all came to the conclusion it wasn't stretched well //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif gotta new idea and i'm gonna try a different material. this one came out pretty good so i' happy with it. just needs some sort of covering
Yeah. Well you already had the piece of wood that is actually in the door itself right? Then the other piece of wood is that back of the door pod, so two layers of wood?

I'm sure it'll work great... not criticizing at all... just lost out on some volume if there is indeed two layers.

nG

 
Yeah. Well you already had the piece of wood that is actually in the door itself right? Then the other piece of wood is that back of the door pod, so two layers of wood?
I'm sure it'll work great... not criticizing at all... just lost out on some volume if there is indeed two layers.

nG

i used the wood in the door so i can mount it too the door. without the wood there would just be a hole. i know req said he used aluminum bars, it was just easier to use wood.

also the wood was mounted inside, the door skin

img02120oj.jpg


 
I think he did a good job.. I have never done one of these before, but the way he showed prety much every step made me alot more confident that I can do it too. His might have not come out perfect, but it shows his steps well and lets people perfect it for them self. Keep up the good work.

 
I think he did a good job.. I have never done one of these before, but the way he showed prety much every step made me alot more confident that I can do it too. His might have not come out perfect, but it shows his steps well and lets people perfect it for them self. Keep up the good work.

if i wrap it in vinyl you wont even see the imperfections. the black paint show the imperfections, but the shape and fit of the pod is pretty good. i'll post more pics when i get it covered

 
if i wrap it in vinyl you wont even see the imperfections. the black paint show the imperfections, but the shape and fit of the pod is pretty good. i'll post more pics when i get it covered
Need to do a lot more sanding brother man, if your gonna vinyl . Imperfections will show through vinyl almost as bad as paint //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Need to do a lot more sanding brother man, if your gonna vinyl . Imperfections will show through vinyl almost as bad as paint //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

i'll figure something. i ran out of cream hardner so i quit with the bondo. i'm gonna try to find grittier sand paper

 
Just a few things I noticed going through this thread again...

Did you put any deadener on your doors?

So essentially, the pods are going to be sealed?

Also, what is the wood and how is the piece of wood secured in this picture...

img02120oj.jpg


 
i'll figure something. i ran out of cream hardner so i quit with the bondo. i'm gonna try to find grittier sand paper
the lower the number of sand paper(grittier) the more imperfections there will be.

if you want a smooth 'show finish' kick, you should be doing the last sand with around 800 grit. but 500 would be just fine for your application. also, if it were me, i would prime it before i paint it, because then you can really see any extra scratches or gouges and fill them with bondo before you prime for the second time, then paint.

this is how i would do it(but i'm an automotive painter)

fiberglass

bondo.

sand 150 grit

bondo small cracks and dips

sand 220 grit or so

prime(first coat)

at this point there shouldn't really be any bondo needed, but if so, just wipe the bondo tight, don't leave hills

sand 320 grit

prime(final prime)

sand 500

paint.

just some food for thought, obviously it's your project and you'll do it how you like. but as soon as i get some money and buy my 2 8'' assassins and fiberglass some boxes for them i'll post some pics of the whole process as well.

 
Just a few things I noticed going through this thread again...
Did you put any deadener on your doors?

So essentially, the pods are going to be sealed?

Also, what is the wood and how is the piece of wood secured in this picture...

img02120oj.jpg

i put deadener on the plastic door panel. the pods are sealed. the wood is hekd in with screws that can't be seen in the pic. in the lower right hand corner you can see a screw

 
the lower the number of sand paper(grittier) the more imperfections there will be.
if you want a smooth 'show finish' kick, you should be doing the last sand with around 800 grit. but 500 would be just fine for your application. also, if it were me, i would prime it before i paint it, because then you can really see any extra scratches or gouges and fill them with bondo before you prime for the second time, then paint.

this is how i would do it(but i'm an automotive painter)

fiberglass

bondo.

sand 150 grit

bondo small cracks and dips

sand 220 grit or so

prime(first coat)

at this point there shouldn't really be any bondo needed, but if so, just wipe the bondo tight, don't leave hills

sand 320 grit

prime(final prime)

sand 500

paint.

just some food for thought, obviously it's your project and you'll do it how you like. but as soon as i get some money and buy my 2 8'' assassins and fiberglass some boxes for them i'll post some pics of the whole process as well.

i was thinking about that cause i was realizing i was sanding away the bondo and not really filling in the holes.

 
i don't know if you've already done this or going to, but i suggest putting a good 1/4" layer of soft clay inside the walls. I just did so w/ my kicks and it's gotten much clearer and detailed. less resonance.

 
i was thinking about that cause i was realizing i was sanding away the bondo and not really filling in the holes.
well now that you know how, i hope to see the reflection of your camera in the second one //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
the lower the number of sand paper(grittier) the more imperfections there will be.
if you want a smooth 'show finish' kick, you should be doing the last sand with around 800 grit. but 500 would be just fine for your application. also, if it were me, i would prime it before i paint it, because then you can really see any extra scratches or gouges and fill them with bondo before you prime for the second time, then paint.

this is how i would do it(but i'm an automotive painter)

fiberglass

bondo.

sand 150 grit

bondo small cracks and dips

sand 220 grit or so

prime(first coat)

at this point there shouldn't really be any bondo needed, but if so, just wipe the bondo tight, don't leave hills

sand 320 grit

prime(final prime)

sand 500

paint.

just some food for thought, obviously it's your project and you'll do it how you like. but as soon as i get some money and buy my 2 8'' assassins and fiberglass some boxes for them i'll post some pics of the whole process as well.

I'm with you after the 150. But it really helps to use some 80 grit to sand with first

. Especially the bondo hair. Sand it smooth, then use the filler to fill in the dips. THen start on the filler with 120-150. And go on from there. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
i don't know if you've already done this or going to, but i suggest putting a good 1/4" layer of soft clay inside the walls. I just did so w/ my kicks and it's gotten much clearer and detailed. less resonance.

i got some spectrum coming today i was gonna shoot inside of the pod

 
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