table saw

[k12ug 10+ year member]

my new ryobi just sucks.....it cits good.....but it does not give my straight cuts and i need a bigger surface.

do they make extensions to the table?

are there any good table under 500$ that i could get with big cutting surface?

if so....some links?

Click to read more...

 

[tEh koRnDog 5,000+ posts]

build a custom one

 

[azbass 5,000+ posts]

x2 build a work table around it

 

[mikey060 10+ year member]

build a custom one

indeed

 

[k12ug 10+ year member]

build a custom one

how much $ do you guess it would cost me? not looking for any looks....just workable.

fyi: im new to cutting and doing anything with building wood.

but....how do you guys cut? do you use the level thing the saw comes with or do you just draw lines and cut?

 

[tEh koRnDog 5,000+ posts]

under 500

 

[Immacomputer 10+ year member]

This is what I use:

It looks like you could find the table part that the saw could fit into. The whole point of the table saw is to use the guide rail to get the straight cuts and as close to square as possible. It does take some practice though and the first couple times you use it will not be perfect but can still be very nice.

 

[phenryiv1 10+ year member]

You need to find a saw with the most stable fence that you can find. Almost ANY saw manufacturer sells a kit to expand the table or cutting plane, but the fence is one thing that you cannot easily upgrade later. (Motor is the other.)

They may be seen as pedestrian, but I still find that Craftsman tabole saws do a good job, provided that you have the proper blade and get one with a stable base and a good, high-quality locking fence.

The last time I was in there, they had one with a dent in the doors that are at the base of the table. $275 for a $550 saw. My wife nixed the idea, since I already have 2 table saws, a 12" laser miter saw with stand, 2 10" mitre saws, and a ton of othr tools cluttering up the garage and basement.

 

[phenryiv1 10+ year member]

Quite pimp, for the cost:

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Bench+Power+Tools&pid=00922104000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Table+Saws&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

More pimp, slightly cheaper:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=159372-46578-C10FL&lpage=none

 

[Flipx99 5,000+ posts]

The second one is quite large you couldn't move it around very easily.

Lowe's sells a more portable Hitatchi one for $297 and it's the best table saw I ever used. The DeWalt has an issue with the carrier warping.

 

[mrogowski 5,000+ posts]

That second one looks pretty good for the price. As phen said, its the fence you really want to look at, plus the overall weight of the saw. You want a fence that will lock from both the front and back, ensuring a straight cut. I say the weight because if you end up cutting large heavy boards, you want the saw to remain stationary.

Best,

Mark

 

[phenryiv1 10+ year member]

The second one is quite large you couldn't move it around very easily.
Lowe's sells a more portable Hitatchi one for $297 and it's the best table saw I ever used. The DeWalt has an issue with the carrier warping.

He said that he wanted a big cutting surface, so I recommended stationalry saws. While you can get a table that allows undermount of a portable or tabletop saw (like the mikita pictured above). Most people don't need portability. My grandfather's Craftsman has not moved by more than a foot in 25 years, and he or I use it at least twice a week.

My "portable" table saws get the job done, but long rips take 2 people, even with guide rollers.

When my shop is finally finished, I will be getting a saw that never moves.

I, like you, have found that Hitachi seems to make some accurate tools at a very reasonable price. My mitre saw is a hitachi, and I have found that it is one of the few laser-aim saws that I have used where the laser is spot-on accurate, even after it is moved around.

 

[phenryiv1 10+ year member]

You want a fence that will lock from both the front and back, ensuring a straight cut. I say the weight because if you end up cutting large heavy boards, you want the saw to remain stationary.

Good points of clarification.

One other thing that I mentioned above but want to touch on- you can get roller stands to help carry the weight of large boards. 2 or 3 of these can really make a 2 man job turn into a 1 man job, or make any job that uses large or heavy material easier to manage.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Bench+Power+Tools&pid=00922295000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Stands+%26+Material+Support&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

Those go on sale for anywhere from $12-15 pretty often. Don't cheap out on them- a wide base and heavy construction make the difference between ruining material and a perfect cut.

Lastly, don't discount the inportance of having the right blade for the job, and having that blade sharpened wne needed.

 

[k12ug 10+ year member]

This is what I use:

It looks like you could find the table part that the saw could fit into. The whole point of the table saw is to use the guide rail to get the straight cuts and as close to square as possible. It does take some practice though and the first couple times you use it will not be perfect but can still be very nice.

can you get a close up picture of how the saw fit on there(were the screws go)

i want to know if it will fit my ryobi saw.

 

[jdawg 5,000+ posts]

yea my ryiobi blows too, too small. I looked on their site and they dont list a table. I could build one but I would rather have the fence and all the the measuring tape on it