Sundown SAZ-1500 blowing the fuse

[30DZ 10+ year member]

When I get the battery installed should I tell them to upgrade to 0g wiring?

 

[infamous_e46 5,000+ posts]

i had a 150 amp fuse on my saz1500d and a second bat and 2/0 wire it beat like a champ

 

[dbeez 5,000+ posts]

Oh you need to upgrade the power wire to 0 gauge as well that amp has 0 gauge inputs for a reason those shops seem pretty clueless.

 

[30DZ 10+ year member]

i had a 150 amp fuse on my saz1500d and a second bat and 2/0 wire it beat like a champ

this is going to sound dumb but, can you tell me what is 2/0 wire?

 

[ace_800 5,000+ posts]

The battery and fuse will definitely help, I think you need to upgrade to 1ga. The wiring might not even be 4ga if they didn't even want to install the other battery.

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

Ok first, you fuse for the size of the wire, not the size of the amp. That fuse inline on the wire is to protect the WIRE from shorts. The fuses on your amp are there for that device. 1/0AWG OFC I believe is rated for a bit over 300A. You don't want under 1/0AWG with that amp. If you just want to be safe you could run a 250A fuse. What is your alternator rated for? It takes power to make power, and your alternator is the only power source in your car. You can have a couple batteries, but if you are pulling more power at your amp than you are supplying from your alternator you are eventually going to run out of juice. Buy a voltage meter now. Put that in, after the wire and fuse upgrades, and see where you are at. A second battery might be fine for you, depending on how hard you run the system. But you may need an alternator upgrade once you start pushing more than 2kW. Everyone is different on how they play their system. But watch that voltage meter, and if it dips below 12V, you BETTER turn that thing down. Remember, your volume knob is one of the biggest factors.

 

[30DZ 10+ year member]

I don't think this amp has a fuse on it. It says in the owners manual, "This amplifier is not supplied with internal fuse in itself. Make sure you install in-line fuse holder from the + terminal of battery" unless if i didn't understand you correctly. I'll make a note of you said and bring it to the next installer. So, I guess if I upgrade the wiring to 0g. I would be charged as much as I would for a whole new install right? because they have to redo all the wiring? If so, after I get the fuse and battery installed, I might wait a few weeks to upgrade to 0g. I just did a search online for Mazda 2012 cx9 alternator specs and I found a site that says it's a 110 amp alternator, is that what you meant? Also, I'm not pushing 2k watts, it's at 1500 watts.

Also I'll have to look into this voltage meter thing, never done it before i hope it's not too complicated for somebody like me.

Ok first, you fuse for the size of the wire, not the size of the amp. That fuse inline on the wire is to protect the WIRE from shorts. The fuses on your amp are there for that device. 1/0AWG OFC I believe is rated for a bit over 300A. You don't want under 1/0AWG with that amp. If you just want to be safe you could run a 250A fuse. What is your alternator rated for? It takes power to make power, and your alternator is the only power source in your car. You can have a couple batteries, but if you are pulling more power at your amp than you are supplying from your alternator you are eventually going to run out of juice. Buy a voltage meter now. Put that in, after the wire and fuse upgrades, and see where you are at. A second battery might be fine for you, depending on how hard you run the system. But you may need an alternator upgrade once you start pushing more than 2kW. Everyone is different on how they play their system. But watch that voltage meter, and if it dips below 12V, you BETTER turn that thing down. Remember, your volume knob is one of the biggest factors.

 

[ace_800 5,000+ posts]

I don't think this amp has a fuse on it. It says in the owners manual, "This amplifier is not supplied with internal fuse in itself. Make sure you install in-line fuse holder from the + terminal of battery" unless if i didn't understand you correctly. I'll make a note of you said and bring it to the next installer. So, I guess if I upgrade the wiring to 0g. I would be charged as much as I would for a whole new install right? because they have to redo all the wiring? If so, after I get the fuse and battery installed, I might wait a few weeks to upgrade to 0g. I just did a search online for Mazda 2012 cx9 alternator specs and I found a site that says it's a 110 amp alternator, is that what you meant? Also, I'm not pushing 2k watts, it's at 1500 watts.

With a 110 amp alt you definitely need the other battery, run 0ga and the big 3 done. You need to have the electrical to run that amp and 4ga, if it even is 4ga, isn't going to cut it. Yes its going to be pretty much a new install. You could do it yourself and save a lot of money.

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

With a 110 amp alt you definitely need the other battery, run 0ga and the big 3 done. You need to have the electrical to run that amp and 4ga, if it even is 4ga, isn't going to cut it. Yes its going to be pretty much a new install. You could do it yourself and save a lot of money.

^^^This. No point in getting something done (the fuse and battery you referenced) and then have to go back and get bigger wiring installed. Get it done right the first time, and you shouldn't have headaches later. I'm not doggin ya for what already has been done, but don't make the same mistake twice. You want 1/0AWG ran between your batteries, for the big 3, and for your amp.

As far as fusing goes, I thought I read here that it had 4 fuses on it, but that may have been a different thread and I was mistaken. If it doesn't have one, same principle applies. You are fusing for the wire. The fuses between your batteries should be 250A to 300A, and that wire should be 1/0AWG. If you want to run a smaller fuse, maybe 200A, between your second battery and your amp, you could do that. But you will still need another fuse between your amp and your second battery.

I highly recommend doing it yourself. Might take a bit of extra work, but it pays off. You know what's going on, and will be able to hunt down what is wrong much easier if it doesn't go smooth. If you really don't want to, then take the time and find a good shop. One that knows wtf they are talking about.

Oh, and a voltage meter is very easy. It has a positive, negative, and remote lead. Positive goes to any positive wire, negative goes to any ground wire, and the remote goes to the remote wire from your HU. It draws next to nothing so you shouldn't have an issue there. I use my sub amp's positive and ground, and a second meter on my distro block. You could put it to your second battery if you like, but I think it would be most useful at your amp, so you can see what is actually going on there.

 

[30DZ 10+ year member]

I appreciate the input. I know for sure I can't do it myself I actually hate figuring this stuff out, and I hate physical labor I don't like reaching in and having to connect **** and all that. When the system was screwing up and the fuse was blowing the other installers had changed it from 1 ohm to 4 ohm but, I didnt' like the sound there wasn't enough bass, and then I wanted to change it back to 1 ohm instead of meeting them I was going to try to do it myself and I couldn't even figure that out and had to end up going to them again. So, I'm being honest this isn't my type of thing. I don't mind paying for it actually even if I had it done twice.

The cost isn't really the reason why I'm not getting it done now, I mean I have 4 twr-10's, a sundown amp, then I had hybrid audio components installed, I spent a grand on just the installation of the subs because I didn't want a sub box in my suv so they are installed in the rear side paneling and in the floor. So, spending another few hundred or whatever on getting this install fixed isn't a big deal. Honestly I was just hoping that after I get the fuse upgraded that it will work as it is. However, I am understanding more clearly now after it was stated that once it's pulling the right power that I will see the issues but, I'm still curious to see how it works. I mean if it doesn't work then I have no choice but, to get everything else done, upgrade to 1/0AWG, and big 3.

Now the biggest issue is finding the right installer. I have a feeling if i go to these guys that I'm dealing with now and mentioned the big 3 they wouldn't know what I'm talking about. There are many car audio shops here in Dallas but, I'm assuming the majority don't know ****. So, it's going to take me time to find one I'm guessing. If anybody here is from the Dallas area, let me know if you have a recommendation. If not, maybe I will just go up to OKC and visit pro-rabbit he does installs now and I know he knows wtf he's doing. Only thing is he gets busy, not sure when he'll be able to get me in and I'd rather prefer to avoid a trip to OK but, I may not have a choice.

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

Yes its safe to assume they used 4G, for reference, the v.1 SAZ-1500D uses 4 40AMP fuses, I ran my lines with 250A fuses for that AMP. I also had 3 batteries, 1 in front and 2 in back. Now that is overkill, but you need a second one but nothing crazy, an optima yellow top should do the trick. Just make sure you have a fuse on each end between the first and second battery positive (think if the line is cut in the middle you want all power disconnected), and fuse second battery to amp positive line. If you like having your work done call around, I wouldn't trust that shop. Good luck man, keep us posted

For what it's worth.... You don't fuse for the amp, you fuse for the wire. If it's 0ga CCA, use a 250a fuse; if it's 0ga OFC, use a 300a fuse.

 

[pro-rabbit 5,000+ posts]

Hey 30...

Sorry you are going through so many issues bud. If you got my cell number still feel free to shoot me a text or give me a call. From the sounds of it, upgrading power/ground wiring, big 3, and if you want adding that second battery should help a large amount with the issues you are having. Odds are, you will need to relocate that ground as well.

I posted in your other thread, we(Amber and I) will be in Dallas mid next month for the fair and such...if you need or want some help just let me know.

 

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

Copper Clad Aluminum

buy this amp kit and have someone re install your power wires

or

1/0 GA Amplifier Installation Kit : 1/0 GA CCA (Amp_Kit)

both good kits

 

[30DZ 10+ year member]

Hey 30...
Sorry you are going through so many issues bud. If you got my cell number still feel free to shoot me a text or give me a call. From the sounds of it, upgrading power/ground wiring, big 3, and if you want adding that second battery should help a large amount with the issues you are having. Odds are, you will need to relocate that ground as well.

I posted in your other thread, we(Amber and I) will be in Dallas mid next month for the fair and such...if you need or want some help just let me know.

Thanks for the reply, Dustin! That sounds good, I'll let you know. I'm trying to see if I can find somebody local to get it done quick, not sure if I could wait an entire month lol but, we'll see once I get this fuse upgraded maybe if I keep the volume down if I don't have issues I might be able to hold out until next month. Or else I may have to consider coming up there again!

 

[pro-rabbit 5,000+ posts]

Understandable. I have all the wire and such that you need. I may be persuaded to come down early though haha.

If you want to swing by this way the guest room is still open if you need it.