Sundown E10v2 vs SA10 vs Alpine SWS-10D4

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kero48

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Gents,

My new setup was going to be based on a single sundown sa8 that a friend was going to throw my way. Found out today that the sa8 is no longer available for me as a buyer that passed has now decided to buy it. No biggie.

Enclosure for the sundowns would be built exactly to spec as per sundowns designs on their site.

Taking into account, correct ported enclosure, correct amp and being that there is only a difference of 100rms between the two what is the real difference between the E10v2 and SA10?

Would a casual music person (listen to variety music) be able to really tell the difference?? The E10v2 is quite afforable in my opinion.

Is the alpine SWS-10D4 something to consider or not in the same league as the sundowns? Just something I came across while reading some threads and the reviews seem pretty good.

I still have the option of buying a new sa8 (enclosure already done based on sundowns website, not much cost out of pocket as a buddy built it for me, 12 ply birch) but thought going up to 10" in the same company might beneficial. Could put the enclosure away for a rainy day.

I'm getting closer so opinions please and thanks for the help

 
Need some final info guys //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
How big of an amp do u have? And sundown would eat that alpine lol but if u already have the enclosure for the 8 then get a sa8 or even the E8. Jacob said the new E8 is very similar to the SA 8v1



Also made a video for it

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The motor & coil are the same as what we use in the E-10/12/15 v.2 models -- so quite beefy.

Honestly... this is a better and/or at least comparable driver to the SA-8 v1 & 1.5 in my mind. Several years of development in 8s has allowed us to offer that level of performance at only $99

 
There is a temporary amp and then in spring a better new replacement.

The amp my friend lent me I believe is 300rms give or take.

I will post up the amp model tomorrow (so please check back tomorrow, appreciated) and we can go from their.

I had a feeling the sundown would be a better option.

So let's focus on sundown and nothing else. Let's remove the sa10 for the time being eventhough It would probably kick some ***.

Oh, yes, the enclosure for the 8 is done and the enclosure for a sundown 10 is in mid construction so the enclosure is not critical to which sub I get. Crazyness lol. Thankfully the guy at work is super cool and of course I will take care of him for his work and effort. Whichever I don't use will be put away for a rainy day or help a friend in need if that arises.

Very interesting about the E8 but let me ask this. All else being the same, e8, sa8 or e10?

If I had to run a sa8 or e10 on a smaller RMS, could I do that for a month or so without any issues. I don't crank my system anyway.

 
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Running less rms to a sub will not causes any issues as long as your gain is set correctly. I would go with an sa10 and then upgrade to a 750-1200 rms amp (assuming you still have stock electrical and are not looking to upgrade).

 
Thinking about it further for some reason I am worried about my cars alternator and ability to do it's job with a SA10 at 750rms or even higher. My car is 15 years old and the alternator I think is rated near 70 to 75amps give or take. The later subarus have higher amp alternators.

I think an SA10 might be out of range for me as to get an amp to drive it in spring might cost to much. I'm not even sure yet what amp I would get i spring/summer to run a sa8 or e10. I need a cost effective model suggestion.

Not in the cards anytime soon with regards to upgrading eletrical lol.

Can I assume that if I stick with a SA8 (500rms) or an E10 (500rms) I should not run into any electrical issues with the spring amp purchase. It's my daily so I don't want to mess around to much.

Will post up existing amp tomorrow to get some feedback. I assume that the gain will have to be kept low (at half?) until a replacement amp is purchased. No big deal really.

This audio stuff seems just as addicting as car mods lol

 
it really depends on how hard you plan on pushing the system..

but a 70amp alt. is not going to do it. you will push it and it will fry.

as for gain no matter what power you are going to get from any amp, you need to set the gain right. dont guess set it right.

o-scope is the best why or a dmm .

you can get an amp thats rated 2 times what your subs are rated for... you just have to set the amp to the sub or subs...

or an amp that half the power does not matter....

just set the gain right.

 
Big scott: So lets talk about my alternator for a moment. We know it's old and and kinda weak amp wise (not sure if thats the right word).

There has to be a safe RMS I can run at that won't stress or fry it. My infinity basslink was 200rms and never had issues. Was in the car for about 2 years.

Researching further, found this for my exact car - Alternator 12-volt, 75 amps

To answer your question about pushing the system. I rarely crank my system (terminology lol). I just use my car for work and back. 1 hour commute each way and occasionally on weekends. Maybe half volume or a tad more at times.

Maybe I should consider an E8 that runs at 300rms as to not tax the alternator? Thoughts?

Based on this article (if accurate) I don't think a 500rms sub is in the cards for me without futher eletrical upgrades - How To - Car Stereo - Amps, Alternators, and Batteries: Upgrading Your Electrical System

Tomorrow we shall know more about it.

Thank you for info with regards to the alternator

 
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Big scott: So lets talk about my alternator for a moment. We know it's old and and kinda weak amp wise (not sure if thats the right word).
There has to be a safe RMS I can run at that won't stress or fry it. My infinity basslink was 200rms and never had issues. Was in the car for about 2 years.

Researching further, found this for my exact car - Alternator 12-volt, 75 amps

To answer your question about pushing the system. I rarely crank my system (terminology lol). I just use my car for work and back. 1 hour commute each way and occasionally on weekends. Maybe half volume or a tad more at times.

Maybe I should consider an E8 that runs at 300rms as to not tax the alternator? Thoughts?

Based on this article (if accurate) I don't think a 500rms sub is in the cards for me without futher eletrical upgrades - How To - Car Stereo - Amps, Alternators, and Batteries: Upgrading Your Electrical System

Tomorrow we shall know more about it.

Thank you for info with regards to the alternator
Your vehicle might handle 1000 watts easily or only 400, you dont know, its different for every car. I had a corolla with an 80 amp alt on 1000 watts and it worked fine even without any big 3. while others have the same alt but die out at 400 watts.

It doesnt matter, all you need to do is just get the setup in already. If it drains your electrical system too much then just lower the gains until your voltages are stable. You can guess all you want on how much your car MIGHT handle while all you really need to do is just get it in, use a digital multimeter and monitor your battery voltages and crank your system on the heaviest bass song you listen too and see how low the voltages get. general safe range is 12.8V to 14.4V. Then do electrical upgrades accordingly.

 
^^ Makes sense and interesting. Maybe I'm overthinking it for only 1 sub with moderate power if you can consider it that.

With regards to a dmm, anything specific to look for? Prices are all over the board? Anyone you can recommend in the $30 range give or take? Harbor freight sells them but I have no clue what to look for and if they are any good.

I just read some instructions on setting gains via dmm, seems pretty simple. Does one need test tones or just use a good song?

So with all that being said, I'll check the amp in the car so at least I know what's in there and post up for good measure.

With regards to which sub, it will be a sundown for sure.

Thanks again!

 
^^ Makes sense and interesting. Maybe I'm overthinking it for only 1 sub with moderate power if you can consider it that.
With regards to a dmm, anything specific to look for? Prices are all over the board? Anyone you can recommend in the $30 range give or take? Harbor freight sells them but I have no clue what to look for and if they are any good.

I just read some instructions on setting gains via dmm, seems pretty simple. Does one need test tones or just use a good song?

So with all that being said, I'll check the amp in the car so at least I know what's in there and post up for good measure.

With regards to which sub, it will be a sundown for sure.

Thanks again!
just anythiing that looks well made. I got mines for 20 dollars at sears, uses 9 volt batteries and lasts pretty long and has a lot of other options. The one i got from home depot has a faulty screen within 1 month.

 
For the dmm, I will check out sears this weekend, $20 is just fine.

So, the amp currently being used in my car is a JL Audio e1400d, class D mono block. Hooked up to the loaner audio pipe APPB-12ET.

Just spoke to my friend who advised, I can keep the amp for the new setup, so most likely it looks like an E8 would be the best option for me until at such time I can upgrade some things.

He also said he will help me do the big three as well since he did it on his car and he has a subaru as well.

 
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Tech support at sundown is amazing. Bryan answered all my questions, gave the advice I needed and advised me of things I didn't even know I needed to do to setup the new sub and amp properly. I couldn't be more pleased. Also gave me some pointers on setting gain via dmm.

So with that being said, some upgraded wiring is in order (big three and updated power and ground wires, etc.), which my friend will help me with.

Final sub choice will be the E8v4D4, gonna purchase it monday.

Thanks for all the input guys, appreciated.

Will update after the new setup is in and tweaked, etc.

 
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kero48

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