Suggestions for 2000+W w/ stock alternator

[HiAmplidude 10+ year member]

Lemme hear your suggestions on 1 or 2 amps to feed my pair of power-hungry Alpine Type X 12's 1000+W each.

I can either go a pair of amps 1000+W@2 Ohm or a single amp with 2000+W@1 Ohm. The catch is, I don't like my vehicle enough to give it a HO alternator. I have "the big 3" and Optima Yellow Top only. So, I need extreme efficiency.

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[davidfre21 5,000+ posts]

PA 3000d

 

[Alpineinstaller 10+ year member]

The memphis mojo puts out 2000 @ 2ohm or 2 alpine MRD-M1005 at 1000 @ 2ohms

 

[Logikalliquid 10+ year member]

2 Phoenix Gold T1200.1s will give you what you need plus some headroom.

 

[Chevyaudio 5,000+ posts]

if you dont wanna do a HO Alt upgrade definatly go with a Class D amp, these will pull less power. So i agree with Apline installer on the Apline and MOJO.

 

[HiAmplidude 10+ year member]

Thanks guys for the quick responses.

The key here is * stock alternator *

Do you feel confident that the Planet Audio 3000d, Mojo, and Ti1200.1's amp's would be ok with that?

Very few manufacturers print their efficiency ratings, and the ones that do, almost all use different standards of measure. Real-world experience is what I need to rely on.

Keep 'em comin'!

Thanks again!

 

[HiAmplidude 10+ year member]

Does anyone know if the Alpine amps are slightly under rated (I hope).

I'd seriously consider a pair of PG 1200D's but they're too wide for me to fit a couple of 'em.

Thanks

 

[Phiber Optik 10+ year member]

Do you realize that none of these amps will give you 2000w rms with a stock alternator...

You seriously risk damaging your cars battery, charging system and accessories, because the voltage will drop out of operating range.

 

[InhumanAcura 5,000+ posts]

Do you realize that none of these amps will give you 2000w rms with a stock alternator... You seriously risk damaging your cars battery, charging system and accessories, because the voltage will drop out of operating range.

really? Im running 4 1000d's and 2 d31's off a stock alt w/o problems?

do you honestly think the cars electrical will be damaged before the amp cuts out in to protection mode? i mean really

its possible to get ~6k from a single battery....w/o the car running, but this guy cant get 2K driving?

 

[robman69 10+ year member]

This will take care of it...

http://www.soundstream.com/sub/products_amps_xxx.html

 

[InhumanAcura 5,000+ posts]

This will take care of it...
http://www.soundstream.com/sub/products_amps_xxx.html

the opti 4000d is the same amp, and its ALOT cheaper

 

[HiAmplidude 10+ year member]

Do you realize that none of these amps will give you 2000w rms with a stock alternator... You seriously risk damaging your cars battery, charging system and accessories, because the voltage will drop out of operating range.

I don't plan to run full volume pink noise during my entire commute to and from the office. And, I'll replace the Optima if it dies under the constant pull/push.

What I'm hoping for is an amp or a pair that won't clip my subs to the grave if my alternator isn't feeding the YellowTop 200A continuous, while driving down the road. I'm pretty sure my batt and pair of caps have enough reserve to take care of the spikes if the amp doesn't spill too much off.

I know it takes just about 180 Amps to feed a continuous 2kW amp, assuming 80% efficiency and near zero cable loss... and that's not even including the 800Watt Class A/B amp I'm feeding the rest of the system *heh*...

So, reading these forums I see so many people willing to stake their reputation on saying that "with a 2500 Watt Orion Class D amp you'll need a HO alternator plus all the goodies, but a 2000 Watt Hifonics XX class D amp will do its job just fine with minimal electrical system upgrades, if any". *confused*

Considering that power doesn't come from nowhere, and disappears in the form of heat from an amplifier at the percentage of loss as its efficency lag, I guess I'm looking for a little moral support.

I need to feed at least a couple thousand Watts (in the normal sub-bass bursts expected by music) at my Type X subs. If I can't do that without killing them due to clipping, without putting a $400 alternator in this truck that I plan to sell as quickly as I can, then I'll probably just sell the Type X subs (that are about 15 minutes old) and pick up a pair of JL 12w6-v2's, and hit them both with only a shared 1000 total Watts.

Thoughts???

Thanks again for the feedback!

 

[chinny 5,000+ posts]

Hifonics XX Hercules.. rated at 2kw at 13.8v and its said to put out more.. and its "Super Class D" wich is supposed to be more efficient.

 

[singlesubsetup 10+ year member]

really? Im running 4 1000d's and 2 d31's off a stock alt w/o problems?

That's a tough pill to swollow..... what kind of car? how many extra batteries do you have?

do you honestly think the cars electrical will be damaged before the amp cuts out in to protection mode? i mean really

I personally think you'd kill the amps if you don't/can't feed them enough current

its possible to get ~6k from a single battery....w/o the car running, but this guy cant get 2K driving?

I'd really have to see a setup like that. One battery (stock deep cycle or other wise) and stock alternator on 6k watts //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif

If he gets a TRUE 2k watts he will need to either add batts or a h/o alternator. When he hits a bass note that sucks 180 amps where will they get the juice from? He'll eventually kill is battery, alternator AND amp if he continues to drive them with low voltage...

you want a amp that will give you 2k watts @ 12 volts go Orion 2500d. None of the others mentioned (that I saw) will give you a SOLID 2k on 12 volts. (orion will do 2500 @ 13.8 NOT 14.4v so @ 12 volts you'll be looking at least 2k)

 

[chinny 5,000+ posts]

orion 2500d will weck ur cars elec system, just a heads up.