Suggestions?: 100x2 @ 4 ohms for my components

[Frankensuby 10+ year member]

As I said, I'm looking for a nice clean amp for my Front stage speakers. They are Alpine Type-R's. (the older ones //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif ). Anyways, I want to spend less than 200$ and I'll be going E-bay or forums, Unless it is less than 200$ BNIB.

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[johnson 10+ year member]

Whats wrong with what you have now?

 

[jkulysses 10+ year member]

http://www.cadencestore.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=125&idproduct=382

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=5220

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=2432

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=4680

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=5308

 

[Frankensuby 10+ year member]

Whats wrong with what you have now?

I'm selling it as I don't use even 50% of it's power, and I don't have money for a new capacitor and rewound/new alternator to push it. I'm dipping 1.5 volts on hard hits with it turned down. I'm getting rid of my rear speakers as well so I won't need the 2 rear channels. Saves weight/energy and I'll make some //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/greedy.gif.5a53e6246569d7ab79867170f3b06629.gif . It is also taking up alot of space in the trunk I could use.

The amp itself is flawless, just way too much for what I need. At one time I thought I was going to upgrade to some True Midbasses, but I've had the system for over a year and now I want less boom, less power, more clarity. I have a 10" That pounds way more than I even need (at 500 RMS feed) that does just fine.

Is cadence good quality? I remember they used ot be just LOUD and not necessarily clean. I'm looking at Maybe Diamond/Eclipse/Planet Audio/Premier level stuff if it is feasible.

 

[jkulysses 10+ year member]

That cadence amp is very nice. You wont find a better one for that price, not bnib with a 2 year warranty anyway.

 

[Frankensuby 10+ year member]

How do you guys feel about the Premier PRS-D2000T

 

[Frankensuby 10+ year member]

Do these specs sound legit?

 

[jkulysses 10+ year member]

what specs

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

A Digital Designs C1 would make an Excellant choce //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Ignatowski 5,000+ posts]

I'm selling it as I don't use even 50% of it's power, and I don't have money for a new capacitor and rewound/new alternator to push it. I'm dipping 1.5 volts on hard hits with it turned down. I'm getting rid of my rear speakers as well so I won't need the 2 rear channels. Saves weight/energy and I'll make some //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/greedy.gif.5a53e6246569d7ab79867170f3b06629.gif . It is also taking up alot of space in the trunk I could use.
The amp itself is flawless, just way too much for what I need. At one time I thought I was going to upgrade to some True Midbasses, but I've had the system for over a year and now I want less boom, less power, more clarity. I have a 10" That pounds way more than I even need (at 500 RMS feed) that does just fine.

Is cadence good quality? I remember they used ot be just LOUD and not necessarily clean. I'm looking at Maybe Diamond/Eclipse/Planet Audio/Premier level stuff if it is feasible.

1) your highs amp doesnt effect your cars power to drop much if any

2) a cap wouldent solve your problems even if you added one

3) your system is still rather small to be having voltage issues

4) might want to consider a BIG3 type cable upgrade,its good for all cars

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

These were/are excellent component amps. American made, under-rated, overbuilt, big, heavy, and top notch controls.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Lanzar-Optidrive-OPTI200-2-Amp-by-ZED-AUDIO-NIB_W0QQitemZ150177263151QQihZ005QQcategoryZ39732QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Delvryboy on here claims to have measured one at 1008w bridged at 2 ohms unclipped. I don't know about that, but it goes to the point that they're bulletproof amps.

 

[Frankensuby 10+ year member]

1) your highs amp doesnt effect your cars power to drop much if any2) a cap wouldent solve your problems even if you added one

3) your system is still rather small to be having voltage issues

4) might want to consider a BIG3 type cable upgrade,its good for all cars

Rebuttal:

1.) I have roughly 400 RMS feeding into the mids/highs, which cover a much higher range of frequencies than my substage. My substage is pulling about 400-450 RMS. When my mids hit, my lits dim, when my sub hits, my lights don't dim. A higher frequency draws more power, even though it is easier to move the smaller speaker. (I may be wrong, but that seems to be what is happening in my system)

2.) Since my mids were causing dimming rather than long bassy farts, a cap would have done pretty good, as it was the short burst mids that were doing the light dimming. I also believe it is an alternator regulator issue, as the voltage itself didn't drop much during the mids, even though the lights did ( I have a constant voltage reader on the battery post and on the HU)

3.) 850 RMS possible to be used at my tuning stage on an allotment of 50 Amps (Car consumed about 20 Amps for regular systems). I believe that is borderline for my alternator before an unsafe voltage drop.

4.) I did one better, a Big 7. Yes, that's right, I used 7 4 gauge wires instead of just 3. My engine bay is a network of grounds and power wires, all covered in anti-corrosive grease to reduce risk of resistance //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

At full tilt, I have a voltage drop of about 1.5 for loudest/hardest hitting songs, and major light dimming. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif