Subwoofer Help ?!

Don't mean to thread jack, but blazian...I wanna hear your car lol
OP, can you double check other connections on the amp? RCAs, power, speaker wire... Btw, is the power light even on?

Checked every wire and replaced ground wire from a 8 gauge to a 4 gauge and got thicker speaker wire. Rest seems fine. And yes the power light is on and not dim.

 
My sub didn't work on buddys amp, I've checked all my wiring and the only the ground wire seemed a bit fried but only cause it had melted seat on it so i got a new ground wire which use to be 8 gauge and now is 4 gauge but haven't been able to get the sub running since changing the wire. Also I got new +/- speaker wires from the amp to sub cause the guy at the installation shop suggested i get thicker wire so i did that as well. The 12v wire is 4 gauge and no fuse is blown. The brand is stinger 4 gauge 1750 amp wiring kit running a 700w mb quart amp with a 10in kicker comp dual voice coil 4-ohm sub.
push on the cone to see if it moves or if its seized. Put the digital multi-meter onto each side of the voice coils to get a reading on how much ohms it is.

 
Sounds like you have a bad connection from the sub to amp.Possibly from sub to Post from inside,came loose as you stated it worked when wiggled, then later didnt, and swapped subs and vehicles,and didnt work in either vehicle,so you either have a Bad connection from sub to the Post internal,or not connected at all.Id take the sub out, and check the Ohm load on the sub, and check the connections on backside/inside the box and check the ohm load at the post as well, should all read the same, then check outside binding post/connections that go to amp,all should be same.
Ill double check tomorrow but from what I saw everything seemed fine. Opened up the box and did reading and it definitely had readings but no sound. Checked the wiring and couldn't find a problem which made me think the sub blew. Thats when i tried buying a new used sub but even that didn't work when i connected to it so I left. Will check a more fluent reading tomorrow at all the locations you suggested.

 
Hmm.. maybe I read this a bit wrong..#1 = Wiggle the sub, and it kicked back on= possibly loose connection

#2 =Ground wire hot burning seat= poor ground/too small of ground supply needed for amp

#3 = Checking Ohm oad with DMM,and all over the place?= No reading /bad reading, Blown sub??/Should read close to Coil ohm load a bit higher,or lower..not moving..

#4 = Put sub in buddys car not knowing what ohm load you are at?= Could have been at a lower ohm load than his amp could handle,and fry his? I would have told you go fvck yourself on that one

#5 =New sub,new box not working on existing system either?= No supply/power to sub,RCAs not hooked up,Blown fuse on amp,wiring issue on amp,HU settings not correctly set for sub amp...FRIED AMP

About all I can think of without more details of even if amp powers up at all/LED indicator working or not ect.

#6What could be wrong?
#1 is what made me find the burning ground wire so I replaced that with 4 gauge hoping it would fix all but no avail

#2 May try making a new ground location just did not see a problem with the current

#3 Ohm reading seemed fine everywhere i checked inside the sub box which made me think sub was blown but also didn't get a different sub to work when I tried.

#4 Honestly don't know the most of this stuff as Im somewhat a newbie but defiantly not like I know jack all. The sub is a 2ohm dual voice coil but yes probably not the best to try on his but his is an older system running 2 12s so me and him didn't see an issue with it.

#5 All wiring seemed fine when putting the new box in, no fuses blown, figured hu was fine as it should atlas show movement either way yes or no ?? Amp powers up without protection light so i assume its fine considering i get reading all over with the multimeter ?? Just sub won't kick so again really not sure whats wrong.

Dunno if I'm being ignorant on anything just trying to troubleshoot.

 
Deff check your sub/wiring/binding post inside and outside of box,and sub with DMM..And all connections there.Check RCAs connections from HU to amp.Make sure your switches are correct on amp set @LPF/mono mode for sub.Might try resetting HU after all trouble shooting,and maybe even try another set of RCAs ran across the seat just to see if you have a bad set of rcas even( just to rule those out).You got some work to do for ruling out things.

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

Similar threads

In a case like In a case like yours I would rather recommend tactile transducers. They are like woofers without the cone section that are...
7
1K
So the car audio shop I took it to just claimed "bad wiring" and now it all works. Not really sure what that means but case closed! thanks...
14
1K
You can't really set it to a specific wattage. What head unit do you have? Find out the pre-amp RCA voltage. Most amp gain knobs are based off of...
7
1K
problem was the LOC burnt out when I had touched cables. got a new LOC and now all is working. have to get the gain right, lights flickering with...
11
2K

About this thread

kurtis16

Junior Member
Thread starter
kurtis16
Joined
Location
calgary canada
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
20
Views
1,067
Last reply date
Last reply from
audiobaun
Screenshot_20240611-211145.png

Blackout67

    Jun 11, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
received_1404248310277849.jpeg

Blackout67

    Jun 10, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top