Sub Enclosure Help

[goodguy8705 10+ year member]

I was going to put 3 or 4 layers of eDead V3 in the trunk. Would it be worth it?

 

[goodguy8705 10+ year member]

Added an alternative option that is probably a better choice.

 

[SSS 18734 5,000+ posts]

Your second design is more tried-and-true. Most people have good results with a setup like that.

Let me know what your max dimensions and sub t/s parameters are, and I'll help you design an enclosure for your build. Posting a pic of your trunk will help too. My only stipulation is that you post a build log!

Also, I'd personally tune a bit higher. Your box really should be significantly larger for a 24hz tune. Keep in mind cabin gain will help you out on the lows. I wouldn't tune lower than 28-29hz, and increase the box size a bit.

 

[goodguy8705 10+ year member]

I picked those specs because it was the best option for group delay as well as an incredibly flat response curve.

This is an SQ build more than anything. I figured, tune to 24hz, set the sub-sonic filter to 18-20hz, and the lpf to 80 hz and that should be good at hitting the entire spectrum with low group delay above 45hz where it's most notable. There is no peaking in the bass response which was something I was trying to accomplish.

 

[kush-divinity 10+ year member]

I picked those specs because it was the best option for group delay as well as an incredibly flat response curve.
This is an SQ build more than anything. I figured, tune to 24hz, set the sub-sonic filter to 18-20hz, and the lpf to 80 hz and that should be good at hitting the entire spectrum with low group delay above 45hz where it's most notable. There is no peaking in the bass response which was something I was trying to accomplish.

All that is nice, but it is generated on a computer.

Which is fine for an arm-chair commando.

In-car, you will see a different story. Everything in your car will change that response curve that you mapped out. Windows down or up, seats laying back or straight up, your headliner/lack of/deadend liner.

Ima go with SSS, make the box a fudge larger than specs call for, and tune to 30 with a decent sized port area. Keep it fired to front as well. You won't be disappointed.

 

[goodguy8705 10+ year member]

Unless you can explain how those things change the response curve, I don't plan on tuning above 28hz.

 

[goodguy8705 10+ year member]

Alright, I did some measurements.

I want to constrain the depth to 30" and the height to 15" while the width can be adjusted freely.

I'm looking for 2.5 cu ft of volume after the .16 cu ft of displacement of the woofer and a tuning of between 24 and 25 hz.

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

 

[SSS 18734 5,000+ posts]

Alright, I did some measurements.
I want to constrain the depth to 30" and the height to 15" while the width can be adjusted freely.

I'm looking for 2.5 cu ft of volume after the .16 cu ft of displacement of the woofer and a tuning of between 24 and 25 hz.

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

If you can wait until the weekend/beginning of next week, I might have some free time to design you an enclosure built to your dimensions and specs.

However, I personally still wouldn't build it to those specs. If you want a tuning of 24 hz I would recommend adding some volume; otherwise you're going to have a ridiculously long port. If you want to keep the 2.5 cubic feet, tune to the high twenties. (I would choose the latter)

 

[goodguy8705 10+ year member]

When I fiddled around with RE Audio's enclosure calculator, I got port lengths between 35 and 45 inches which worked okay because the box was so long, it only needed one bend. I'll post up some of the specs I got from their site tomorrow when I have time.

I'm not in a rush at the moment, but I will be wanting to get this thing built in the next 2-3 weeks.

 

[goodguy8705 10+ year member]

Any help?