Stupid Audi... Hooked up and and subs, but weird stuff happening...

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sroking08

CarAudio.com Newbie
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ny
2011 Audi A5 with concert stereo

I bought a line out converter and hooked it up using the rear speaker inputs. Everything works fine except when I start the car the subs freak out and pulse full blast for a few seconds... I hooked the remote turn on wire to a fuse in the rear. I remember trying to get the rear back up camera to work using a trigger wire and all it would do is glitch out. To get it to work I had to use the radio out's specific trigger wire. Maybe its the same sort of issue?
I tried a couple different fuses in the trunk, passenger side. When you first put the key in the car the subs just THUMP like they are 80% volume for about 4 seconds.
I cant figure this car with this canbus electronics....

Is there a fuse that gets power a few seconds after the car has started? The amp is getting power to fast I think. Wonder about a relay.
Anyone else have an issue like this?

Ok this is crazy... the electronics in this car/manufacturer are insane... Ive never had so many issues hooking up a rear camera, android audio, line output converters, remote turn on wire...
I ordered a relay to delay the power from the remote turn on to the amp so the amp doesnt power on first and prevent the THUMP.. Well today I wanted to hear the subs so I jumped the remote turn on to the +12 on the amp so I could atleast listen to it. When I did that the subs just vibrate loud until I let go... so I unhook the RCA's to see if that helps. The subs stopped vibrating so I plugged one RCA in at a time, first one it didnt do it but the second RCA is started vibrating again. When I say vibrating I mean they are pretty much thumping very loudly fast.
So after a bit the amp and subs became stable dunno how... but here is another stupid thing this car does... I was like ok its working now let me close the trunk... As soon as the trunk is closed the subs start to vibrate/thump louf until I open the trunk. They stop as soon as the trunks popped open... same happens if I close it again....

This makes absolutely no sense to me... Ive hooked up atleast 50 car audio systems in my years, never once have I ever came across such a weird vehicle...

It is such a basic setup...
Line out converter hooked to the rear speakers, 2 channel and polarity hooked up correctly according to wire diagram.
4 gauge +12v power line directly to the battery with a fuse.
4 gauge Negative wire mounted directly the the frame in the trunk.
Remote turn on wire hooked to the ligher/acc fuse in the trunk.
 
2011 Audi A5 with concert stereo

I bought a line out converter and hooked it up using the rear speaker inputs. Everything works fine except when I start the car the subs freak out and pulse full blast for a few seconds... I hooked the remote turn on wire to a fuse in the rear. I remember trying to get the rear back up camera to work using a trigger wire and all it would do is glitch out. To get it to work I had to use the radio out's specific trigger wire. Maybe its the same sort of issue?
I tried a couple different fuses in the trunk, passenger side. When you first put the key in the car the subs just THUMP like they are 80% volume for about 4 seconds.
I cant figure this car with this canbus electronics....

Is there a fuse that gets power a few seconds after the car has started? The amp is getting power to fast I think. Wonder about a relay.
Anyone else have an issue like this?

Ok this is crazy... the electronics in this car/manufacturer are insane... Ive never had so many issues hooking up a rear camera, android audio, line output converters, remote turn on wire...
I ordered a relay to delay the power from the remote turn on to the amp so the amp doesnt power on first and prevent the THUMP.. Well today I wanted to hear the subs so I jumped the remote turn on to the +12 on the amp so I could atleast listen to it. When I did that the subs just vibrate loud until I let go... so I unhook the RCA's to see if that helps. The subs stopped vibrating so I plugged one RCA in at a time, first one it didnt do it but the second RCA is started vibrating again. When I say vibrating I mean they are pretty much thumping very loudly fast.
So after a bit the amp and subs became stable dunno how... but here is another stupid thing this car does... I was like ok its working now let me close the trunk... As soon as the trunk is closed the subs start to vibrate/thump louf until I open the trunk. They stop as soon as the trunks popped open... same happens if I close it again....

This makes absolutely no sense to me... Ive hooked up atleast 50 car audio systems in my years, never once have I ever came across such a weird vehicle...

It is such a basic setup...
Line out converter hooked to the rear speakers, 2 channel and polarity hooked up correctly according to wire diagram.
4 gauge +12v power line directly to the battery with a fuse.
4 gauge Negative wire mounted directly the the frame in the trunk.
Remote turn on wire hooked to the ligher/acc fuse in the trunk.
What you're experiencing is an effect caused by the ANC that comes with your car. You'll need to disconnect the header cable. It's trying to cancel the noise caused by your engine but your subwoofer is confusing it. This is why shops always say installing gear can cause your engine to sound louder than it was before.

Also what you're describing with the RCAs causing random sounds when you plug the second one in can be caused by extremely sensitive gain settings combined with an inverted polarity on either of the speaker wires going to the LOC. Whenever there's a difference between the left and the right it'll rattle your fillings. Double check your wiring to be sure Left + is going to left + and right + is going to right +
 
I have the kicker converter.

I decided to take the whole stock radio out and try to find the speaker wires coming out of that instead of hooking the converter up after the amp. After a few hours I think that may have fixed it. Could hooking the line out converter hooked up after the stock amp cause all those issues?

So far everything seems to be fixed by moving the line out converter from after the amp to before it.

Ill follow up in a few days so that if anyone ever searches for an issue like this they arent left without an answer. I hate when that happens to me lol.
 
I have the kicker converter.

I decided to take the whole stock radio out and try to find the speaker wires coming out of that instead of hooking the converter up after the amp. After a few hours I think that may have fixed it. Could hooking the line out converter hooked up after the stock amp cause all those issues?

So far everything seems to be fixed by moving the line out converter from after the amp to before it.

Ill follow up in a few days so that if anyone ever searches for an issue like this they arent left without an answer. I hate when that happens to me lol.

It sounds like you created a feedback loop. You can't take signal from the output signal, especially if it's been amplified. That would cause a lot of issues (namely a direct feedback loop), so hopefully that's the only one and you'll be good now. If you didn't do any damage to the LOC, Amplifier, or drivers then you got off pretty easy, so that's a good cheap learning experience.
 
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