Stock Electrical???

[Bumpin' Goalie 10+ year member]

700 cca battery and an 80 amp alternator

Suzuki SX4

wanting to run an AQ1200d with my current Diamond D1 250.2

Not wanting to upgrade electrical.

however, needing 2 x ~500rms for DD1508's

any other amps with less draw that will get the job done for the same price or less?

thanks.

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[chaunb3400 10+ year member]

do the big 3 and check your voltage..

 

[Bumpin' Goalie 10+ year member]

my one concern is that if i do purchase the 1508's and the AQ, and the voltage drops too low and the alt cant keep up, im out 700 or so bucks. not wanting to replace or add batteries or a high output alt. trying to keep the electrical as stock as possible.

 

[Ronmeister]

my one concern is that if i do purchase the 1508's and the AQ' date=' and the voltage drops too low and the alt cant keep up, im out 700 or so bucks. not wanting to replace or add batteries or a high output alt. trying to keep the electrical as stock as possible.[/quote']
If you wouldn't mind placing a Kinetik HC600 or equivalent in the rear to help it would do wonders. The battery is very small, it won't take up much room at all. I placed two right behind my woofer enclosure and you couldn't tell they were there.

And, if you are interested, I have the several Werker battery equivalent of HC600s for 70 shipped. They are brand new. I have a sale thread for them and a pic of them in my pictures if you navigate through clicking my username. Just one will do wonders for your setup and take the strain off your charging system, but you can certainly run two or more and have no issues.

Ron

 

[hatedonmostly 5,000+ posts]

If you're not willing to do it right, don't do it at all. All you will need to do is upgrade your front battery and do the big three. You have more than enough space to put a small battery in the rear also. I would recommend all three.

I have a 800 CCA battery and a 90 amp alt. My headlights don't dim, but they would if I weren't using HIDs. I'm planning on adding a rear battery, a HC600 equivalent, like above poster recommended.

 

[Qbenjamin 10+ year member]

my one concern is that if i do purchase the 1508's and the AQ' date=' and the voltage drops too low and the alt cant keep up, im out 700 or so bucks. not wanting to replace or add batteries or a high output alt. trying to keep the electrical as stock as possible.[/quote']
Do the BIG 3 upgrade as mentioned by the previous poster, that would be your most cost efficient route to try first.

 

[hatedonmostly 5,000+ posts]

If you're not willing to do it right, don't do it at all. All you will need to do is upgrade your front battery and do the big three. You have more than enough space to put a small battery in the rear also. I would recommend all three.
I have a 800 CCA battery and a 90 amp alt. My headlights don't dim, but they would if I weren't using HIDs. I'm planning on adding a rear battery, a HC600 equivalent, like above poster recommended.

btw, this is for running the amp at 2 ohm. For 1 ohm you will experience worse voltage drops and will not be able to run that equipment unless you do it right and add the proper electrical.

 

[Bumpin' Goalie 10+ year member]

my plan is not to buy equipment and have it installed and performing poorly. i am merely looking for the best i can run without major electrical upgrades.

thank you for all the input. i have no problem running a rear battery, better battery under the hood. Big 3 is fine as well. the thing i want to avoid if at all possible is alt upgrade.

if i can get away with a rear battery and the Big3 alone, ill manage. also, 2 ohm would still supply sufficient power, however i would rather purchase DVC 4 ohm woofers for more wiring abilities down the road. running @ 1 ohm and turning the gains down sufficiently shuld cut down draw close to the equivalent of running 2 ohms, yes?

lastly, i am currently running a kicker zx500.1 pushing ~600rms total with no problems whatsoever. if the AQ were gained down to output ~400ea (~800total) i wouldn't imagine that an extra ~200w would cause DRAMATIC differences, especially after big3?

thank you again. sorry for the added questions, i simply do not want to get myself into a hole; yet i want best options available. all advice is welcome and appreciated.

thanks

 

[hatedonmostly 5,000+ posts]

my plan is not to buy equipment and have it installed and performing poorly. i am merely looking for the best i can run without major electrical upgrades.
thank you for all the input. i have no problem running a rear battery' date=' better battery under the hood. Big 3 is fine as well. the thing i want to avoid if at all possible is alt upgrade.

if i can get away with a rear battery and the Big3 alone, ill manage. also, 2 ohm would still supply sufficient power, however i would rather purchase DVC 4 ohm woofers for more wiring abilities down the road. running @ 1 ohm and turning the gains down sufficiently shuld cut down draw close to the equivalent of running 2 ohms, yes?

lastly, i am currently running a kicker zx500.1 pushing ~600rms total with no problems whatsoever. if the AQ were gained down to output ~400ea (~800total) i wouldn't imagine that an extra ~200w would cause DRAMATIC differences, especially after big3?

thank you again. sorry for the added questions, i simply do not want to get myself into a hole; yet i want best options available. all advice is welcome and appreciated.

thanks[/quote']

1200w shouldn't ever require a HO alt. If you are okay with above upgrades then you will be more than fine.

 

[Bumpin' Goalie 10+ year member]

think i could get away with only a rear or only a front battery and big 3?

or would both be necessary?

if i was just to start with 1, which 1 first?

thanks

 

[plugitin 5,000+ posts]

man, just do the big 3. check your voltage then, if it drops, get a nice front batt. If it still drops, get one for the back. simple

 

[chaunb3400 10+ year member]

man, just do the big 3. check your voltage then, if it drops, get a nice front batt. If it still drops, get one for the back. simple

ppl over analyze simple sh!t

 

[Bumpin' Goalie 10+ year member]

sounds good to me. run 0 gauge i imagine?

ppl just started worrying me with scare tactics

saying things along the lines of "killing my alt, yah dah yah dah yah dah"

wish i had more experience with under the hood electrical, so here's i good chance to get some hands on knowledge.

thanks for all the help pplz.

also, lastly, any other amps that are more efficient, thus less draw, and still ~1000rms on a birth sheet?

 

[S1R-BLUNTZWORTH 10+ year member]

btw, this is for running the amp at 2 ohm. For 1 ohm you will experience worse voltage drops and will not be able to run that equipment unless you do it right and add the proper electrical.

blah blah blah won't be able to run blah blah without blah....

I may be an idiot, but I've been running 3000+ watts on a stock 120A alt and just the starting battery under the hood.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif Drops to 11.5 after a while, lacking big 3 blahblah, but whatever.. still going strong for 4+ months now. Blast it all day every day//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif