Still hit the lows

It doesnt have much to do with the size of the cone.. You may not have level of low output that a 15 would give you but thats mostly because of the difference in displacement. Ive heard 8s give some solid low output on several occasions. Youll be fine.

And yes.. a larger sealed box is a good direction to go

 
lol so bub hows lil sis doin. and my box is only 1.76 cubs shared so I guess it whont hit that low but better then no subs //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
why do u think bigger boxes usually hit lower

the repricussion of a larger box

and i know i spelled it wrong leave me alone ****it

why do little subs sound better in houses, the wave has room to expand

my brothers bandpass 8 cost 25 dollars sounds good in my house do u think i will hear that in my car

 
why do u think bigger boxes usually hit lower
the repricussion of a larger box

and i know i spelled it wrong leave me alone ****it

why do little subs sound better in houses, the wave has room to expand

my brothers bandpass 8 cost 25 dollars sounds good in my house do u think i will hear that in my car
Please stop. "Room to expand"??? What the ****? The math doesn't work well with that one cool guy.

 
Please stop. "Room to expand"??? What the ****? The math doesn't work well with that one cool guy.
ok so tell me why they always suggest large boxes to get loud

read this

How To Design Your High Output Sub Enclosure

We don’t believe in the tiny sub box theory. If you are looking for tiny sound, get a tiny sub and put it in a tiny box. Be happy. If you are looking for real bass, you need to have a real box.

In order to get true high performance, you have to make the most of the available airspace you have. To do otherwise is wasting your time, energy and money. Don’t try to fit a larger speaker in a box that is better suited for the next size down. Our subs all have the same amount of throw, the same force available, and the smaller sub in the right space will outperform the larger sub in too small an airspace.

The first step in getting major bass in your vehicle is to allocate the space for your enclosure. If you really want to flex some sheet metal, the old adage applies, “there is no substitute for cubic inches”. The more space you make available, the higher the potential spl.

You don’t have to use a large amount of enclosure space to make a loud system; loud can be done with a single Audioque sub. The amount of loud needs to be determined as you figure out what space you plan to give up. Really loud bass, where you have to scream at your passengers, can be done on a single or double woofer setup. Stupid loud bass, where there is no point in trying to communicate in the vehicle, takes more space and bigger/more subs. F@#$ing crazy loud bass, where it is impossible for the car next to you to communicate inside his vehicle, takes even more space, even more subs and a gazillion watts of power.

A few tips on what to pay attention to when determining the box shape:

If you plan to use a rear firing setup in a trunk car, make sure your box doesn’t seal off the trunk from the passenger compartment. You need to leave some space for the waves to pass back into the interior of the car. Either make the box as low as possible so the wave passes over the box and enters the cabin via the seatback and rear deck, or reduce the width of the box so the wave can pass to the side and into the car’s interior. A big, giant box may make your trunk extremely loud, but all you’ll hear is muffled rattle if the box takes up the whole space behind the rear seat and under the rear deck.

If you have a hatchback car, keep the box as far back in the vehicle as possible. Keep the port as far to the rear as possible.

 
Hoffman's Iron Law:

where n0 = reference efficiency (% based)

Fs = the resonant frequency of the driver (measured in Hz)

Vas = Volume of air which, when acted upon by a piston of area Sd, has the same compliance as the driver's suspension (measured in m^3)

Qes = electrical "Q" of the driver at Fs (unitless)

n0 = (9.614 * 10^-7 * Fs^3 * Vas)/Qes * 100

 
Hoffman's Iron Law:
where n0 = reference efficiency (% based)

Fs = the resonant frequency of the driver (measured in Hz)

Vas = Volume of air which, when acted upon by a piston of area Sd, has the same compliance as the driver's suspension (measured in m^3)

Qes = electrical "Q" of the driver at Fs (unitless)

n0 = (9.614 * 10^-7 * Fs^3 * Vas)/Qes * 100
thanks for the math lesson

put it in lamens terms and apply it to the woofer

dont get me wrong jim i think u r much more versed than me but space can make a big difference if applied correctly

 
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