sq compition gear

So far I completely agree with everything Helotaxi is saying.

You don't need expensive or esoteric equipment to compete. Amps aren't important as long as they have the power and features you need. Cables aren't important. Preamp voltage isn't important.

The #1 most important thing is installation and tuning (this includes sound deadening).

The speakers are the most important part of the physical system.....and even they don't need to be "expensive", just solid performers which can actually be very affordable. After speakers I would say the 2nd most important thing is adequate processing. You don't have to "over use" the processing, but you need to be able to properly equalize the system, time align if necessary (one seat judging) and it helps a ton if you have flexible crossovers.

You could very easily put together a competition worthy system with less than $2k in equipment.

 
im curious to hear how loud is to loud for sq when u normally have ur car judged. like for me ad my setup i play at 56 out of 62 for my full tilt. what would be considered sq. is it like what u daily listening levels are. lets say 44 out of 62? im not sure if i wanna go sq, im pretty much happy with my amps. and well the positions in my car (kicks for mids and tweets) (doors for midbass) and i will def drop the cdt's and go diy with some hybrid audio's, seas, peerless, etc...) keep amps, sell sub, pickup some focal or id's and go ib / sealed.

but im not sure yet, i might continue my sql but step it up into 2000 watts on 6 8" re re's or 1 mx, 1 xxx, 2 12 se's, 1 15 aa havoc, 2 idmax's another q. etc...

 
So far I completely agree with everything Helotaxi is saying.
You don't need expensive or esoteric equipment to compete. Amps aren't important as long as they have the power and features you need. Cables aren't important. Preamp voltage isn't important.

The #1 most important thing is installation and tuning (this includes sound deadening).

The speakers are the most important part of the physical system.....and even they don't need to be "expensive", just solid performers which can actually be very affordable. After speakers I would say the 2nd most important thing is adequate processing. You don't have to "over use" the processing, but you need to be able to properly equalize the system, time align if necessary (one seat judging) and it helps a ton if you have flexible crossovers.

You could very easily put together a competition worthy system with less than $2k in equipment.
Gonna be rockin the old kicker amps in my ride //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

 
im curious to hear how loud is to loud for sq when u normally have ur car judged. like for me ad my setup i play at 56 out of 62 for my full tilt. what would be considered sq. is it like what u daily listening levels are. lets say 44 out of 62? im not sure if i wanna go sq, im pretty much happy with my amps. and well the positions in my car (kicks for mids and tweets) (doors for midbass) and i will def drop the cdt's and go diy with some hybrid audio's, seas, peerless, etc...) keep amps, sell sub, pickup some focal or id's and go ib / sealed.
but im not sure yet, i might continue my sql but step it up into 2000 watts on 6 8" re re's or 1 mx, 1 xxx, 2 12 se's, 1 15 aa havoc, 2 idmax's another q. etc...
when you set up your car for sq you set it so it doesnt have background noise and so that the speakers do not (or as close to it as possible) distort at all. when they do the majority of listening tests the vocals would be at about at a level slighty higher than a normal conversation. would be sweet if they added full spl points for this as well. thing i like about it is it puts installation back into the mix

 
wow, i didn't expect such a conversation to spark with my original post, but I'm glad it did. My question wasn't particularly intended to suggest that I'm trying to build such a system, it was more out of curiosity. I'm far more interested in sq than spl and my set up is basic but sq oriented. I'm running two 10" idqs off of a xenon 600.1. I've got an 880 going to some entry level boston acoustic comps. I have already learned how important install is. I did a little custom work on my door panels so that I could move my mids out flush with the door panel, and I've at least doubled the mid bass. I don't ever plan on competing, but I am curious what kinds of things set a winning system apart from a clean sounding daily driver.

 
wow, i didn't expect such a conversation to spark with my original post, but I'm glad it did. My question wasn't particularly intended to suggest that I'm trying to build such a system, it was more out of curiosity. I'm far more interested in sq than spl and my set up is basic but sq oriented. I'm running two 10" idqs off of a xenon 600.1. I've got an 880 going to some entry level boston acoustic comps. I have already learned how important install is. I did a little custom work on my door panels so that I could move my mids out flush with the door panel, and I've at least doubled the mid bass. I don't ever plan on competing, but I am curious what kinds of things set a winning system apart from a clean sounding daily driver.
with a sound quality cd like the iasca disc or http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/reviews/20030902/autosound_cds.html

when you listen to these if your system is set up right there will be NO left or right bias, sound is at eye level from in front of you and when you shut your eyes there is no way you would ever guess you were listening to a system in a car. the sound stage will seem very large with no obvious lacks in percieved depth or have a defined limiting "shape" to the sound stage.

 
Amps with very low thd for a start...quality crossovers, quality rca's, HU's with high vlt rca's
Um...not really. THD ratings are overrated, only because there is no set standard for measuring them. When you say quality crossovers it almost implies passive crossovers, which are not used very often. And there isn't a huge difference between RCAs, so long as they're shielded well and have good termination. And you don't need a HU with high voltage outputs. That's what the gain control is for on the amps.

 
I wouldn't say active is the only way to get there, but very few cars use passives anymore. No matter how good your install, your still in a car and it's putting you at a bid disadvantage. It's akin to using a sealed box in a SPL competition.

 
Anymore you won't see passive winning at comps but back in the day they were basically required in some classes. Consider that in the early 90's IASCA and all the others were divided into power classes and the lowest class (and also one of the most competitive) ranged from 0-50W to 0-150W depending on the org and the year. Pretty much left only a single 2 channel amp to power the system and fit within the power class. Passives were the only way to go. Now that those constraints are gone, no reason to go with passives. An active setup will give you much better results pretty much every time.

 
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