Sound Quality peeps, what NEW SCHOOL 4 channel are you running and why?

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

ywah i like the us acoustics too of course idk new ones but peeps like them.. i found this other day not a 4 channel but should be good amp https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Acoustics-USX-2150-car-audio-amplifier/182935134376?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D44040%26meid%3Dcfa680d260fa4ec3acbed3a6a03a6d00%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D253316660097&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

 

[PPI_GUY 10+ year member]

US Acoustics is a solid brand. The PPI p900.4 is fine as is the NVX, Soundstream, Polk and its other clones. So are JL Audio RD amps. Class a/b or D, it doesn't really matter. Nowadays you won't be able to tell any difference riding around with the window down or in traffic.

Class D is more efficient and easier on your electrical. Some claim class a/b is cleaner. Maybe, maybe not. Just remember that class a/b amps are going to have a bigger footprint than class D.

OP, if good SQ is your goal then you'll be better off putting your money into quality drivers (speakers) and a head unit with time alignment and the ability to do 3 way active.

Then I would look for an amp that is rated for 25%-50% more power than your speakers call for. Set your gains accordingly and have some headroom.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

there's no such thing as a perfect repl......

US Acoustics is a solid brand. The PPI p900.4 is fine as is the NVX, Soundstream, Polk and its other clones. So are JL Audio RD amps. Class a/b or D, it doesn't really matter. Nowadays you won't be able to tell any difference riding around with the window down or in traffic. Class D is more efficient and easier on your electrical. Some claim class a/b is cleaner. Maybe, maybe not. Just remember that class a/b amps are going to have a bigger footprint than class D.

OP, if good SQ is your goal then you'll be better off putting your money into quality drivers (speakers) and a head unit with time alignment and the ability to do 3 way active.

Then I would look for an amp that is rated for 25%-50% more power than your speakers call for. Set your gains accordingly and have some headroom.

 

[denim 5,000+ posts]

I have some killer amps for sale that you would love. And guess what? They are dirt cheap!!3 125x2 phoenix gold xenon amps..

I don't have the play money, but would snatch one if I could. Xenon amps are monsters, so I am not sure how I would fit a 200.4, 1200.1, and 100.2 into a trunk of an IS300.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

I don't have the play money, but would snatch one if I could. Xenon amps are monsters, so I am not sure how I would fit a 200.4, 1200.1, and 100.2 into a trunk of an IS300.

I found another used 200.4.i have 3 100.2s right now.

The 200.4 is going to be bridged to my mids and I'm gonna put one 100.2 per tweeter. Lol. Unless someone buys my 100.2s I'll get the 100.4 and bridge it.

 

[denim 5,000+ posts]

I found another used 200.4.i have 3 100.2s right now.The 200.4 is going to be bridged to my mids and I'm gonna put one 100.2 per tweeter. Lol. Unless someone buys my 100.2s I'll get the 100.4 and bridge it.

400 watts per tweet? I doubt our Evil 1's can take that power.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

400 watts per tweet? I doubt our Evil 1's can take that power.

No the mids. And 200 per tweeter. The comps are for a friend. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif