Sound Deadener Help

[JLMaster 10+ year member]

Well, Im putting my system together soon enough, and I wanted to go ahead and get sound deadening outta the way, before I start running wires and such.

I was thinking about getting about 80Sq. Ft. of eDead v1², since I can get it for .80 a foot. How does that sound?

Also was thinking about getting a quart of eDead v3, does this sound like a good idea?

I wanted to get some advice on this, and to know if you have used or had experience with either one of this products? If so, how would you rate it?

Also would like to know, if I decide to go ahead and get those, would I put down the liquid deadener first? or the peel and seel?

Thanks in advance!

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[Dingleberry 10+ year member]

Anything vertical use second skin damplifier. Then use peel and seal for everything else.

 

[2000LaDe 10+ year member]

 

[WrenchGuy 10+ year member]

V1 is sticky and stays but isn't very thick. BXT is a great option. If I had a fancy car to do I would Second Skin.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

I second Raamat BXT for a budget oriented install.

If you haven't already, read this...

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com

 

[porksoda 10+ year member]

Here is a write up i did on eDead. Its I like it. Good luck man! Later,

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=302674

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

Asphalt-based peal n seal is not "deadener." In fact, it's very aptly named...peal and seal...and can do quite well for that purpose. Petrolium-based asphalt is hardly viscoelactic and doesn't do very well at converting mechanical enegy to thermal energy (which "deadener" is supposed to do).

Furthermore, anything with a mylar plastic constraining layer is going to perform pretty lousy in the damping department a) as it has such low integrity and b) is not rigid (thus doesn't constrain).

 

Also, if the damping product...liquid or mat...doesn't maintain a semi-permanent bond to the surface for the life if the vehicle, it's not a good investment.

This is what mylar plastic backed peal-n-seal (once sold as eDead by ED) looks like as it is being pulled off a hatch floor after it has failed miserably, both at adhering to and damping the sheet metal....

Even the poorest quality aluminum-backed butylene rubber "sound deadeners" won't rip apart like that.

 

[dragnix 5,000+ posts]

Anything vertical use second skin damplifier. Then use peel and seal for everything else.

no

Asphalt-based peal n seal is not "deadener." In fact, it's very aptly named...peal and seal...and can do quite well for that purpose. Petrolium-based asphalt is hardly viscoelactic and doesn't do very well at converting mechanical enegy to thermal energy (which "deadener" is supposed to do).
Furthermore, anything with a mylar plastic constraining layer is going to perform pretty lousy in the damping department a) as it has such low integrity and b) is not rigid (thus doesn't constrain).

 

Also, if the damping product...liquid or mat...doesn't maintain a semi-permanent bond to the surface for the life if the vehicle, it's not a good investment.

This is what mylar plastic backed peal-n-seal (once sold as eDead by ED) looks like as it is being pulled off a hatch floor after it has failed miserably, both at adhering to and damping the sheet metal....

Even the poorest quality aluminum-backed butylene rubber "sound deadeners" won't rip apart like that.

nice. Now you should go make some deadener and sell it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

I don't have to. Some really smart engineers have already developed highly functional and effective CLD systems for cars. They typically cost more money, but they do a better job. Therefore, don't buy "deadener," buy effective damping materials and your investment will go much, much further.

I've searched and searched and haven't been able find and ASTM e-756 rating on peal n seal. The American Society of Engineers has tests for damping materials and they are done using a cantilever that vibrates at certain freqs. With this method, you can ascertain the damping product's DLF (damping loss factor.) http://engineers.ihs.com/document/abstract/PZNOIBAAAAAAAAAA

The fact that you cannot find DLF figures for peal n seal (or asphalt-based vibration damping materials) tells me it's not "deadener." Just my $.02. Maybe some numbers exist? I don't know for sure.

One final thing to keep in mind here is that vibration damping is frequency and temperature dependent. Most are going to perform their best right around room temp (70* F). As the temp goes down, the damping ability does down. As temp increases beyond 70*, damping ability drops off - but not as fast as colder temps.

Question: How well do you think a super-cheap, plastic-backed sheet of petroleum-based sicky black goo is going to perform when it's 0* or 150* inside your door or on the floor??