Sorta bad or REALLY bad?

i just have mine laying down resting in its own little corner. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/slap.gif.87520e8ca8e90076ac30e777c0de5331.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/idea.gif.5acb6a39a9b92425414c316dda202bad.gif

 
Hmm... so who came up with the notion that it was bad for the amp and why?
It comes down to board designs sometimes. Vertical Fets are more prone to breaking due to vibration then horizontal fets (IIRC, I might have it switched)

Also, you said you are concerned with it walking away so under your seat might be better. Its easier to grab your stiff when its all in one package. Cut 3 wires and gone. Under the seat though, they would probably have to pull the seat to get the amp. At least its cheaper to just buy new subs instead of subs and an amp.

 
At that point, I might as well just make an insurance claim.

My plan is to keep it as inconspicuous as possible, and with the aid of an alarm, tint, and window shades hopefully nobody will know its even there. Definitely not going to "advertise" as I roll up to say, wal-mart or the movies etc. My car is by no means nice, so I was thinking maybe that would also detract from its "value potential"...

 
Almost every system that I have ever installed - 20+ over the years, I screwed the amp(s) to the sub box.

I have never had an amp fail.

I can see how it could be bad but also a thick, braced box shouldn't vibrate enough to break the amp.

 
Almost every system that I have ever installed - 20+ over the years, I screwed the amp(s) to the sub box.I have never had an amp fail.

I can see how it could be bad but also a thick, braced box shouldn't vibrate enough to break the amp.
Good to know. Seems like the amps would be subjected to lots of vibration anyway... Not only from the bass but the road too.

 
well, save for a small portion of amps, the boards are not really rigidly attatched to the heat-sink, so vibrations, especially higher frequency, put a strain on all the solder connections. over time, any thing with mass, or rigid vs. flex will develop dry connections, which may also take a long time before you even know that the damage has occured. this is why most older used amps do have dry connections that need soldered to prevent a failed circuit...... i would use rubber grommets on both sides of the mounting feet held by a washer screwed through. and yes, the kac amps are kind of solid in some aspects, and are greatly smd components, but still hold a bunch of bigger caps centermass to the board, and i don't think they are even glued down, or reinforced in any way, just soldered by the legs to the traces..... when you build the box, it would be a good idea to use bracing to the other side directly behind where it will mount.

 
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