Sooo......Active=FTW

[MikeyB 5,000+ posts]

Thats where I was getting confused^^^ Not having the sub in led me to interpret the crossover on the deck waaayyy wrong.

Im low-passing the sub at 63hz, 24db. Then the ssf will control the bottom end, but its set too high.

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

you cant from the HU

just adjust the 20 hz to -4 or so if you are worried about bottoming out

is -4 a magic number?

 

[MikeyB 5,000+ posts]

BTW thanks a lot for the help Ramos...(and James Bang)

Time to go for a cruise and enjoy the part Ive been missing. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

edit- I knew something sounded weird with the tweets

 

[iamamp3pimp 5,000+ posts]

is -4 a magic number?

no

hence the "or so"

 

[MikeyB 5,000+ posts]

After a little cruise:

Low-L 0 63hz

Low-R 0 63hz

Mid-L-L -1 50hz

Mid-L-R 0 50hz

Mid-H-L -1 3.2khz

Mid-H-R 0 3.2khz

High-L -4 2.5khz

High-R -2 2.5khz

The mids havent changed a bit. Adjusting the tweets has been my problem. Finally gettin there now though lol.

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=339117

check it.

 

[macq32 10+ year member]

well james, I have learned one thing from this thread...

you are a ****ing ***

 

[MikeyB 5,000+ posts]

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=339117
check it.

Ive got a bunch of test tracks in a folder on my ipod. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[ramos 5,000+ posts]

My question here is:
If the component set you buy comes with passive crossovers, wouldn't the people that make the component set, set the crossover points that best suit the component set? Or it more of a personal preference thing, where most people have tastes different than the creators of the component set?

9 times out of 10 the passive crossover points are a "safe" crossover point. Meaning with the realtively low slopes of the passives ( usually 6db-12db ) your components are going to be safe from idiot consumer abuse. Doesn't mean they are the best or ideal. Just means they are a little safer for the everyday average joe blow. Going active with a passive set, using the passive crossover is a good starting point. But with an active setup, most of the time you have much steeper slopes to control things a little better //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

well james, I have learned one thing from this thread...
you are a ****ing ***

 

[MikeyB 5,000+ posts]

^ lol

Heres where Im at now:

Low-L 0 63hz (12db/24db)

Low-L 0 63hz (12db/24db)

Mid-L-L -1 50hz/63hz (24db/12db)

Mid-L-R 0 50hz/63hz (24db/12db)

Mid-H-L -1 3.2khz 24db

Mid-H-R 0 3.2khz 24db

High-L -3 2.5khz/3.2khz (24db/12db)

High-R 0 2.5khz 24db

Struggling to find the sweet spot.....biggest thing is balancing out everything on the drivers side, mainly just the tweet.

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

i would start w/

sub 80hz -24db/oct

mid low 80hz -24db/oct

mid high 3.2khz -24db/oct

highs 3.2khz -24/db/oct

I recommend keeping both sides equal w/ xover points and slopes, but I attenuate when needed to have both sides balanced.

to get a balance, try playing the tweets only, then balance left and right to where they sound equally loud on either side. I do that by balancing far right and left and adjusting the levels on the crossover or gains, if you have independent gains.

then do the same for mids.

after that, you balance your mids and tweets (attenuating or boosting left and right together if any adjustment is needed) and repeat for your sub.

do all that after getting the phase right. http://www.zshare.net/audio/5006010928145cf2/

check phase w/ mids and tweets playing separately (turn mids off when checking tweets, and vice versa). it'll be easier.

 

[MikeyB 5,000+ posts]

i would start w/
sub 80hz -24db/oct

mid low 80hz -24db/oct

mid high 3.2khz -24db/oct

highs 3.2khz -24/db/oct

I recommend keeping both sides equal w/ xover points and slopes, but I attenuate when needed to have both sides balanced.

to get a balance, try playing the tweets only, then balance left and right to where they sound equally loud on either side. I do that by balancing far right and left and adjusting the levels on the crossover or gains, if you have independent gains.

then do the same for mids.

after that, you balance your mids and tweets (attenuating or boosting left and right together if any adjustment is needed) and repeat for your sub.

do all that after getting the phase right. http://www.zshare.net/audio/5006010928145cf2/

check phase w/ mids and tweets playing separately (turn mids off when checking tweets, and vice versa). it'll be easier.

Thanks man, much appreciated, thats exactly the info I needed!

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

9 times out of 10 the passive crossover points are a "safe" crossover point. Meaning with the realtively low slopes of the passives ( usually 6db-12db ) your components are going to be safe from idiot consumer abuse. Doesn't mean they are the best or ideal. Just means they are a little safer for the everyday average joe blow. Going active with a passive set, using the passive crossover is a good starting point. But with an active setup, most of the time you have much steeper slopes to control things a little better //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

I don't understand what safety has to do with it, really. Sure, you can run a tweeter down way too low and push it to it's mechanical excursion limit fry it, but passives are designed by the manufacturer to make the sound transition the most optimal after testing them out. Some do it consistantly different than others...Dyn uses 6 db/Oct slopes and I've seen Rainbow use 18db/oct.

Also, steeper slopes aren't better or more ideal. It's just a different attenuation used for several different reasons. Not saying you said, that just saying in general.

A passive comp set in the hands of a veteran installer and tuner can and WILL sound better than someone installing speakers at BB. The car determines the end result, not the slopes. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

well james, I have learned one thing from this thread...
you are a ****ing ***

but he's an *** that understands running active //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif