I bought one of the 10's with the cast aluminum basket a couple weeks ago and the ****** died on me in 5 minutes on rated power. Coil still looked minty so I am assuming it was the connection where the woven tinsel leads met the coil leads that failed. They gave me the run around for a bit asking for a video showing them what was wrong with the sub(really? A video to show a non functional subwoofer) but they did send a replacement which I just got. I heard some guys on caco say that it is a must that you break these subs in but after that they are solid which I find hard to believe. At any rate I did break in the replacement a bit but have yet to put it back into the car.
On first inspection there are quite a few decent features on this sub. The foam surround is fairly thick and is stitched onto the cone. Cone is paper and is thicker than I expected on this cheapy sub. The spider looks to be 8 inches in diameter and is held down by a bolt down ring. Very stiff suspension on this sub considering its power handling. I've had subs rated for twice this power with looser suspensions. From what I can see through the under spider vents on the sub the coil appears to have plenty of wire on it to handle the rated power of the sub ( 500 watts rms, coil is 2.5 inches on this one) . Plenty of cooling on this driver as well. It has under spider vents in the basket, a pole vent, and voice coil gap vents
The basket appears to be a knockoff of the 12 spoke basket we are all used to. It seems to be a bit thinner than other baskets that I have here. Also the spokes protrude out underneath the mounting lip a bit so the mounting flange is not a consistent width all the way around the driver. On every other basket I have here the spokes aren't protruding into the mounting lip at all so it is a consistent width all the way around. Not really a big deal as there is still plenty of mounting flange to secure the driver but it goes to show that the basket although very similar is not the same as other 12 spoke frames. If the driver fails again I plan on tearing it apart to see if the bolt pattern for the motor is standard to accommodate different motors or if its custom to this driver.
I will be sure to chime back in and let everybody know how the sub holds up when I do get it back into the car. I plan on running another round of 20 Hz test tones through it at a bit higher power level to break it in a tad more before running it in the car again.