In the past woman saw them as large "toys" but the + and - touching internal organs ruined bassheads chances of having kids.
Seriously, they can be used correctly. Look up the tests that have been done online and youtube and form your own opinion on if it could be useful for you.
peterletran
10+ year member
Junior Member
IMO, capacitors are just a waste of money, and mounting them could be cumbersome as well as gaudy.
In the past, mobile audio drew a ton of current causing the vehicle's electronics to lose a lot of voltage.
To counter-act these effects, capacitors were used to give amplifiers short bursts of power.
Today, most amplifiers are much more efficient and don't draw as much power as in the past.
Also, in my teens, most audio shops didn't use power cables larger than 4 gauge.
Smaller cables cause voltage drop for amplifiers making them pull more current.
Ohm's Law: Definition & Relationship Between Voltage, Current & Resistance - Video & Lesson Transcript | Study.com
For the price of a decent capacitor, you could just upgrade your electrical system.
I'd rather dish out the $20-$50 for 0 gauge cables which helps with voltage drop.
Or save the money altogether and get a decent car battery or 2.
If you're having to use a capacitor, there may be an underlying issue with the vehicle's electrical system.
Check the alternator output as well as the car battery's capacity.
If both of those are running within their specifications, than your power cable is restricting your system.
In the past, mobile audio drew a ton of current causing the vehicle's electronics to lose a lot of voltage.
To counter-act these effects, capacitors were used to give amplifiers short bursts of power.
Today, most amplifiers are much more efficient and don't draw as much power as in the past.
Also, in my teens, most audio shops didn't use power cables larger than 4 gauge.
Smaller cables cause voltage drop for amplifiers making them pull more current.
Ohm's Law: Definition & Relationship Between Voltage, Current & Resistance - Video & Lesson Transcript | Study.com
For the price of a decent capacitor, you could just upgrade your electrical system.
I'd rather dish out the $20-$50 for 0 gauge cables which helps with voltage drop.
Or save the money altogether and get a decent car battery or 2.
If you're having to use a capacitor, there may be an underlying issue with the vehicle's electrical system.
Check the alternator output as well as the car battery's capacity.
If both of those are running within their specifications, than your power cable is restricting your system.
SilverSquared
10+ year member
Fat guy on the GROUND.
I had a cap once.
a 45 second bass note...maybe 10 seconds in...and ALL my stuff was shutting down.
Removed cap. Installed battery. Problems solved.
a 45 second bass note...maybe 10 seconds in...and ALL my stuff was shutting down.
Removed cap. Installed battery. Problems solved.
SilverSquared
10+ year member
Fat guy on the GROUND.
dbl pst
Last edited by a moderator:
ladysmanfelpz
10+ year member
Member
Nothing wrong with them at all.
Peterletran summed it all up.
People used to use them as a band aid. Batteries simply store a larger amount of power, but can only discharge the current at a certain rate depending on the cells used. Capacitors store a small amount of power, but can discharge very rapidly. Perfect for quick large demands of power such as big bass hits. They do nothing for the charging system, however, so although it may fix your headlight dimming issues, your battery is still slowly draining and your are putting a drain on your electrical. I ran one, first as a band aid and then kept it anyway after an electrical upgrade. I had headlight dimming and threw it in. I ran at 13.9 volts before. After big 3 I ran a steady 14.4 and would drop to maybe 14.2 on big bass hits. The voltmeter was a nice plus. I was only running a 4 ga wire, but I still don't think a 0 ga can compete with something that can throw power that fast. My bass was super punchy and quick to respond. Also can be used as a distributor as again what I did. Ran a single 4 ga wire to my cap, then two 4 ga wires off that, one to sub amp and one to 4 channel, grounded those to the negative of the cap and then ran a single 0 ga ground to chassis. Made a very clean install. Oh and did I mention it could throw power? Fast.
I liked my experience with mine, but as Peterletran mentioned, amps are getting more efficient. As long as you provide them ample power they should perform as advertised. If you want to invest in one for purposes used like I did, it may be time to invest $60 for a 1 farad and see what you can do for install and what it adds to sound quality. Try one one out if you're a tinkerer and let us know how it goes.
Peterletran summed it all up.
People used to use them as a band aid. Batteries simply store a larger amount of power, but can only discharge the current at a certain rate depending on the cells used. Capacitors store a small amount of power, but can discharge very rapidly. Perfect for quick large demands of power such as big bass hits. They do nothing for the charging system, however, so although it may fix your headlight dimming issues, your battery is still slowly draining and your are putting a drain on your electrical. I ran one, first as a band aid and then kept it anyway after an electrical upgrade. I had headlight dimming and threw it in. I ran at 13.9 volts before. After big 3 I ran a steady 14.4 and would drop to maybe 14.2 on big bass hits. The voltmeter was a nice plus. I was only running a 4 ga wire, but I still don't think a 0 ga can compete with something that can throw power that fast. My bass was super punchy and quick to respond. Also can be used as a distributor as again what I did. Ran a single 4 ga wire to my cap, then two 4 ga wires off that, one to sub amp and one to 4 channel, grounded those to the negative of the cap and then ran a single 0 ga ground to chassis. Made a very clean install. Oh and did I mention it could throw power? Fast.
I liked my experience with mine, but as Peterletran mentioned, amps are getting more efficient. As long as you provide them ample power they should perform as advertised. If you want to invest in one for purposes used like I did, it may be time to invest $60 for a 1 farad and see what you can do for install and what it adds to sound quality. Try one one out if you're a tinkerer and let us know how it goes.
peterletran
10+ year member
Junior Member
[quote name='ladysmanfelpz']Nothing wrong with them at all.
Peterletran summed it all up.
People used to use them as a band aid. Batteries simply store a larger amount of power, but can only discharge the current at a certain rate depending on the cells used. Capacitors store a small amount of power, but can discharge very rapidly. Perfect for quick large demands of power such as big bass hits. They do nothing for the charging system, however, so although it may fix your headlight dimming issues, your battery is still slowly draining and your are putting a drain on your electrical. I ran one, first as a band aid and then kept it anyway after an electrical upgrade. I had headlight dimming and threw it in. I ran at 13.9 volts before. After big 3 I ran a steady 14.4 and would drop to maybe 14.2 on big bass hits. The voltmeter was a nice plus. I was only running a 4 ga wire, but I still don't think a 0 ga can compete with something that can throw power that fast. My bass was super punchy and quick to respond. Also can be used as a distributor as again what I did. Ran a single 4 ga wire to my cap, then two 4 ga wires off that, one to sub amp and one to 4 channel, grounded those to the negative of the cap and then ran a single 0 ga ground to chassis. Made a very clean install. Oh and did I mention it could throw power? Fast.
I liked my experience with mine, but as Peterletran mentioned, amps are getting more efficient. As long as you provide them ample power they should perform as advertised. If you want to invest in one for purposes used like I did, it may be time to invest $60 for a 1 farad and see what you can do for install and what it adds to sound quality. Try one one out if you're a tinkerer and let us know how it goes.[/QUOTE]
Sorry ... I'm somewhat of a n00b when it comes to capacitors, but what you're describing sounds like something I'm interested in. What is this "After big 3" which got you up to 14.4?! That's amazing! I'm currently running a Kinetik HC2000, but my amp (DB drive A72500.1) doesn't seem to respond and punch as well as a Memphis 1000. I've got 0 gauge from the Kinetik to the amp. Could the Capacitor be stronger than the Kinetik?
oh and @SilverSquared ... your response was hilarious to me. yea ... I don't have any dimming issues, but I do have that issues I just described.
Peterletran summed it all up.
People used to use them as a band aid. Batteries simply store a larger amount of power, but can only discharge the current at a certain rate depending on the cells used. Capacitors store a small amount of power, but can discharge very rapidly. Perfect for quick large demands of power such as big bass hits. They do nothing for the charging system, however, so although it may fix your headlight dimming issues, your battery is still slowly draining and your are putting a drain on your electrical. I ran one, first as a band aid and then kept it anyway after an electrical upgrade. I had headlight dimming and threw it in. I ran at 13.9 volts before. After big 3 I ran a steady 14.4 and would drop to maybe 14.2 on big bass hits. The voltmeter was a nice plus. I was only running a 4 ga wire, but I still don't think a 0 ga can compete with something that can throw power that fast. My bass was super punchy and quick to respond. Also can be used as a distributor as again what I did. Ran a single 4 ga wire to my cap, then two 4 ga wires off that, one to sub amp and one to 4 channel, grounded those to the negative of the cap and then ran a single 0 ga ground to chassis. Made a very clean install. Oh and did I mention it could throw power? Fast.
I liked my experience with mine, but as Peterletran mentioned, amps are getting more efficient. As long as you provide them ample power they should perform as advertised. If you want to invest in one for purposes used like I did, it may be time to invest $60 for a 1 farad and see what you can do for install and what it adds to sound quality. Try one one out if you're a tinkerer and let us know how it goes.[/QUOTE]
Sorry ... I'm somewhat of a n00b when it comes to capacitors, but what you're describing sounds like something I'm interested in. What is this "After big 3" which got you up to 14.4?! That's amazing! I'm currently running a Kinetik HC2000, but my amp (DB drive A72500.1) doesn't seem to respond and punch as well as a Memphis 1000. I've got 0 gauge from the Kinetik to the amp. Could the Capacitor be stronger than the Kinetik?
oh and @SilverSquared ... your response was hilarious to me. yea ... I don't have any dimming issues, but I do have that issues I just described.
peterletran
10+ year member
Junior Member
[quote name='ladysmanfelpz']Nothing wrong with them at all.
Peterletran summed it all up.
People used to use them as a band aid. Batteries simply store a larger amount of power, but can only discharge the current at a certain rate depending on the cells used. Capacitors store a small amount of power, but can discharge very rapidly. Perfect for quick large demands of power such as big bass hits. They do nothing for the charging system, however, so although it may fix your headlight dimming issues, your battery is still slowly draining and your are putting a drain on your electrical. I ran one, first as a band aid and then kept it anyway after an electrical upgrade. I had headlight dimming and threw it in. I ran at 13.9 volts before. After big 3 I ran a steady 14.4 and would drop to maybe 14.2 on big bass hits. The voltmeter was a nice plus. I was only running a 4 ga wire, but I still don't think a 0 ga can compete with something that can throw power that fast. My bass was super punchy and quick to respond. Also can be used as a distributor as again what I did. Ran a single 4 ga wire to my cap, then two 4 ga wires off that, one to sub amp and one to 4 channel, grounded those to the negative of the cap and then ran a single 0 ga ground to chassis. Made a very clean install. Oh and did I mention it could throw power? Fast.
I liked my experience with mine, but as Peterletran mentioned, amps are getting more efficient. As long as you provide them ample power they should perform as advertised. If you want to invest in one for purposes used like I did, it may be time to invest $60 for a 1 farad and see what you can do for install and what it adds to sound quality. Try one one out if you're a tinkerer and let us know how it goes.[/QUOTE]
Sorry ... I'm somewhat of a n00b when it comes to capacitors, but what you're describing sounds like something I'm interested in. What is this "After big 3" which got you up to 14.4?! That's amazing! I'm currently running a Kinetik HC2000, but my amp (DB drive A72500.1) doesn't seem to respond and punch as well as a Memphis 1000. I've got 0 gauge from the Kinetik to the amp. Could the Capacitor be stronger than the Kinetik?
oh and @SilverSquared ... your response was hilarious to me. yea ... I don't have any dimming issues, but I do have that issues I just described.
Peterletran summed it all up.
People used to use them as a band aid. Batteries simply store a larger amount of power, but can only discharge the current at a certain rate depending on the cells used. Capacitors store a small amount of power, but can discharge very rapidly. Perfect for quick large demands of power such as big bass hits. They do nothing for the charging system, however, so although it may fix your headlight dimming issues, your battery is still slowly draining and your are putting a drain on your electrical. I ran one, first as a band aid and then kept it anyway after an electrical upgrade. I had headlight dimming and threw it in. I ran at 13.9 volts before. After big 3 I ran a steady 14.4 and would drop to maybe 14.2 on big bass hits. The voltmeter was a nice plus. I was only running a 4 ga wire, but I still don't think a 0 ga can compete with something that can throw power that fast. My bass was super punchy and quick to respond. Also can be used as a distributor as again what I did. Ran a single 4 ga wire to my cap, then two 4 ga wires off that, one to sub amp and one to 4 channel, grounded those to the negative of the cap and then ran a single 0 ga ground to chassis. Made a very clean install. Oh and did I mention it could throw power? Fast.
I liked my experience with mine, but as Peterletran mentioned, amps are getting more efficient. As long as you provide them ample power they should perform as advertised. If you want to invest in one for purposes used like I did, it may be time to invest $60 for a 1 farad and see what you can do for install and what it adds to sound quality. Try one one out if you're a tinkerer and let us know how it goes.[/QUOTE]
Sorry ... I'm somewhat of a n00b when it comes to capacitors, but what you're describing sounds like something I'm interested in. What is this "After big 3" which got you up to 14.4?! That's amazing! I'm currently running a Kinetik HC2000, but my amp (DB drive A72500.1) doesn't seem to respond and punch as well as a Memphis 1000. I've got 0 gauge from the Kinetik to the amp. Could the Capacitor be stronger than the Kinetik?
oh and @SilverSquared ... your response was hilarious to me. yea ... I don't have any dimming issues, but I do have that issues I just described.
Boomin_tahoe
5,000+ posts
Hurtin' feelings errrday.
They store energy.
They're a complete waste. If you have the big 3 done and a aftermarket alt and battery should be good enough
Big 3 is in a sticky above.
But big 3 is positive battery lead/cable to alt
battery ground cable/lead to chassis
Chassis to engine.
To sum it up, the big three is less strain on electrical than "factory" wiring. Reduces dimming lights, better current flow, etc.
They're a complete waste. If you have the big 3 done and a aftermarket alt and battery should be good enough
Big 3 is in a sticky above.
But big 3 is positive battery lead/cable to alt
battery ground cable/lead to chassis
Chassis to engine.
To sum it up, the big three is less strain on electrical than "factory" wiring. Reduces dimming lights, better current flow, etc.
Jeffdachef
5,000+ posts
Gunz That Turn on Nunz
LosIsATool
5,000+ posts
CarAudio.com Veteran
Its not just caps are bad. Its the cheap caps shops carry that don't do anything. They tend to be a road block for the amplifier. If you open one up you will see what's really inside. Kind of like taking the magnet cover off a Rockford woofer.
Boomin_tahoe
5,000+ posts
Hurtin' feelings errrday.
That said, how can you tell from the real to the fake?
LosIsATool
5,000+ posts
CarAudio.com Veteran
The only way I know to judge is the name on it. You cant really judge by price since they jack that up.
Boomin_tahoe
5,000+ posts
Hurtin' feelings errrday.
Too many names. Even cheap junk ones as you said.
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