Smoking Hot!!

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

80amp alt is fine, might have to back off when the air cond is on.dont know a batcap300 for size wise.

i know i was running a clamped 3100rms in my last car off stock battery,90 amp alt and a c&d liberty(hella battery).

I have to, respectfully, disagree. The math shows a pretty clear cut case of an insufficient power supply.

 

[wickedwitt 10+ year member]

I thought this was going to be about women. Son I am disappoint.

FYI, next time you get this stinky smell or hot cones, turn it way down and keep them playing; don't just go to shutting it off. It allows the sub to utilize its cooling mechanisms to help cool it and prevent permanent damage. Shutting it down completely will result in permanent failure more often then playing at a lower volume.

 

[XEnophontos 10+ year member]

So how should I go about figuring out whats damaged and whats working and how can I fix said damaged components, or replace them

Also the system has been in for about 9months now, I changed the grounding points 2 months ago.

 

[SPLaudio 5,000+ posts]

audioholic; the most that amp can draw is 100amps and that would be on a test tone if there was no impedence rise, perfect world type thing. with music that amp probley wont pull more than 50amps full tilt. with the 2 batterys there should be enough reserve where there isnt any issues. BUT no alt is equal! the dodge 90 i was using is stronger than the 130amp powermaster in my other car. they are rated diff and if ur car is a honda forget it the alt is junk. i understand where ur comming from but like i said i dont know how big that batcap is, havent used 1....

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

So how should I go about figuring out whats damaged and whats working and how can I fix said damaged components, or replace themAlso the system has been in for about 9months now, I changed the grounding points 2 months ago.

Is the battery a sealed type? Most car batts are not. Have you been checking the water level in the cells regularly? The more current you pass through a wet cell battery, the faster the cells will evaporate water. If the water level is allow to drop to the point the plates are exposed, oxidization occurs and the battery is permanently damaged. If you say you have never checked the batt, I bet if you go out and look right now, you will see exposed plates in every cell.

The alt could have a diode burn out, screwing up its already measly output performance. Most local auto parts stores can bench test an alt if you bring it in (and is usually free to test).

The amplifier could also have transistors and diodes burned out. That is more difficult to verify, and many times takes an expert opening up the chassis and inspecting it.

The sub will likely show signs of a burn coil (discoloration) and as someone else said above, will diminish its lifespan considerably.

I recommend a new, higher output alt. Probably a new, high performance sealed type batt, and proper wiring throughout (I forget what you say you've done for wiring already). The stereo equipment... well, I suppose you can simply keep using it until it breaks, unless you want to tear your system out and send the items off to have them inspected and/or repaired (if necessary).

I dont mean to sound doomsday here, you may not have damaged everything Ive mentioned here. Im merely saying its certainly possible any one of those items, or possibly all of them, sustained damage. Again the main thing here is to realize the mistakes made, and not perpetuate them in the future. Good luck, and keep us posted. If you need help fixing this issue, feel free to post as many questions as necessary until you are on top of the situation.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

audioholic; the most that amp can draw is 100amps and that would be on a test tone if there was no impedence rise, perfect world type thing. with music that amp probley wont pull more than 50amps full tilt. with the 2 batterys there should be enough reserve where there isnt any issues. BUT no alt is equal! the dodge 90 i was using is stronger than the 130amp powermaster in my other car. they are rated diff and if ur car is a honda forget it the alt is junk. i understand where ur comming from but like i said i dont know how big that batcap is, havent used 1....

Yes, music is transient. That is why I generally only comment on these types of threads when there is a pretty clear cut answer, which again I believe my math above shows there is here.

If you have to rely on impedance rise to keep your stereo from pulling more current than your charging system can sustain, you are riding the fine line between a working stereo, and a smoking one.

Clipping. If the amp clips, it can certainly draw more current than it is rated for. And its already rated to draw more current than the charging system is rated to supply. By itself. Not including the rest of the stereo, or all the electricals in the car that the alt was sized to handle by the manufacturer. Adding a second batt will not change this, it will merely prolong the problem.

I think the OP creating this thread to describe his smoking stereo component is proof enough that I am correct here. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[SPLaudio 5,000+ posts]

but with a stock battery and aftermarket battery fully charged you didnt smoke the sub from undervoltage in 3 mins of music off a1000rms.

i tested by last car with the car off i could burp a 3k amp 7 times with 3 sec burps before my voltage would drop below 12.8 after a few sec rest.

i bet one of ur batterys is bad. do you have them relay isolated? a good agm batt will rest 13-13.2v. a wet cell dosent like to rest as high and if not isolated they sit when the car is off and work against each other causeing battery damage...

 

[XEnophontos 10+ year member]

Yes I have a honda accord 2002, I planned on getting a HO alt and better battery up front anyways guess its just gonna be sooner rather than later, I will prob run the amp till it dies or sell it to someone to fix or what everthey wanna do with it. Batcap 300 is just a very smallbattery that charges and discharges very quickly. I have the power wire running to the batcap then to the amp

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

but with a stock battery and aftermarket battery fully charged you didnt smoke the sub from undervoltage in 3 mins of music off a1000rms.
i tested by last car with the car off i could burp a 3k amp 7 times with 3 sec burps before my voltage would drop below 12.8 after a few sec rest.

i bet one of ur batterys is bad. do you have them relay isolated? a good agm batt will rest 13-13.2v. a wet cell dosent like to rest as high and if not isolated they sit when the car is off and work against each other causeing battery damage...

A relay only isolates the batts when the ignition is turned off. I know what you are getting at, the older/weaker batt will drag down the better batt. The only way to avoid this is to use an actual isolator.

When using a relay to 'isolate' batts, the batts must be matched properly or parasitic drain between the two batts will occur and over all performance will suffer.

 

[SPLaudio 5,000+ posts]

isolators arent any good because of voltage loss thru them. when useing a relay the only time the 2 batterys ae connected is when the car is running so its already putting out 14+ volts.

honda alts are garbage at idle i bet ur not putting out 30amps, honda is known for small under the hood batterys too...

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

isolators arent any good because of voltage loss thru them. when useing a relay the only time the 2 batterys ae connected is when the car is running so its already putting out 14+ volts.
honda alts are garbage at idle i bet ur not putting out 30amps, honda is known for small under the hood batterys too...

Yes, isolators have more internal resistance than relays (which is one of the reasons I usually use a relay), but today's isolators are much better than the old ones that gave them a reputation for being a voltage hog.

It doesn't matter if the alt is running or not, if you use a relay and your batts are not fairly close in internal resistance, the problem still exists. You are correct that when system voltage is pegged at 14.4, the alt is supplying all the power that is being used. But we both know most people's voltage does not stay pegged at 14.4, and many times voltage dips to the point that the batt(s) supplies the power the alt is insufficient to supply. We are, after all, discussing this in a thread where the OP has an 80 amp alt Ive already explained cannot solely power his stereo AND the car itself. OP's case is one of the more extreme ones, but even most people with an adequate charging system still rely on the batt(s) to supply power during peak power demands such as heavy or long bass notes.

 

[SPLaudio 5,000+ posts]

honda explains it all bro there charging systems ****.

i dont like to ever drop below 13v at a idle, if i do there is work to be done...

 

[XEnophontos 10+ year member]

Very newb question, but I am new to using DMM'S what setting do I put it to to check the voice coils? I set it to the Omega 200 level and both coils read 3.3 I have no idea if this is the right setting or not, I could use some help on setting the scale.

 

[SPLaudio 5,000+ posts]

that is correct. now touch ur dmm leads together and get that reading and subtrat that from ur 3.3 and there is ur real impedence...

 

[XEnophontos 10+ year member]

Alright so both coils are reading 3.0 after the math, I emailed Incriminator Audio to see if they can fix it up and how much it would cost and maybe even rebuild it to take more power. But thank you very much guys I really appreciate the help, you can read as much as you want on a forum but experience is the best teacher gotta learn from the mistakes