Simple amp question

Fattony911
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
If the amp isn't turning on at all (no protect or green light on) but is getting sufficient power it would most likely mean my amp turn on correct. The amp isn't starting but all my power and ground wires are textbook i was shady of putting in the turn on its a bit think for a turn on and im pretty sure that's what i need to fix any advice?

 
If the amp isn't turning on at all (no protect or green light on) but is getting sufficient power it would most likely mean my amp turn on correct. The amp isn't starting but all my power and ground wires are textbook i was shady of putting in the turn on its a bit think for a turn on and im pretty sure that's what i need to fix any advice?
The only way that the cabling you're using for the remote turn-on lead might be "too thick" is if you're using wire too large to fit into the appropriate terminal, I would suggest. It doesn't need to be large wire by any means as it doesn't have to carry a large amount of current.

If you have a DMM measure the voltage at the end of that wire when the headunit is turned on. If you've got 12.0v+ then you're good and the issue is somewhere else.

If you're showing less than 12v for that circuit then either the wire itself is bad or your source has issues of some sort.

 
from what i remember amps only need a 500ma or mv to turn on... but i would run a bigger amp turn on wire... at least the same ga as the output from the headunit..

you're not useing the wire that come's on a cheep set of rca's are you??

 
from what i remember amps only need a 500ma or mv to turn on... but i would run a bigger amp turn on wire... at least the same ga as the output from the headunit..
you're not useing the wire that come's on a cheep set of rca's are you??
To prove a point to some friends who repeatedly told me I was wrong (until I showed them just who really was wrong) the two amps in my car currently are fed remote activation signals by either 26awg or 28awg wire (we're talking automatic pencil lead-tiny, here)

It works fine. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/thumbsup.gif.3287b36ca96645a13a43aff531f37f02.gif

 
i have seen small amp turn on wire's. work a amp perfectly fine!!but i just dont think it's the best thing...
Thus far, thankfully, I have experienced no adverse effects from my point proving exercise.

That lead doesn't have to carry any extreme amount of current - like previously stated it is no more than 1/2 or 1 ampere.

Additionally seeing as I use a 30a SPST relay for remote turn-on duties due to the number of accessories I have activated indirectly by the HU those tiny wires leading to their respective terminals on my two amps are maybe 10" from the relay to my 4-channel and less than 2' going to my monoblock.

The relay is activated by the HU and then in turn activates everything else taking the strain off of the remote output in my HU> //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 
Thanks guys, so i guess I need to invest in a DMM. This would have made things so much easier in the first place. Thanks again. hope i can find the issue. May even be the deck since its just a temporary one i put in until i put in the flipout

 
Thanks guys, so i guess I need to invest in a DMM. This would have made things so much easier in the first place. Thanks again. hope i can find the issue. May even be the deck since its just a temporary one i put in until i put in the flipout
If aftermarket car audio is going to be a hobby you pursue to any extent you'll find that DMM will be the best $20 or so you ever spent //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
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Fattony911

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