Good morning,
I'm almost done with buying all my pieces for my system. This is what I have so far...
Alpine CDA-9887
Alpine MRP-M500
Alpine MRP-F300
2 ID10v3
JL 5x7's coaxials (cant remember the model number)
The alpine deck has an option that will let me run active. I drive a Regular Cab 2004 Tacoma (only 2 doors, only 4 speakers - 2 mids in the door and 2 tweeters).
Here are the specs for the MRP-F300
RMS Power Ratings
Per channel into 4 Ohms: (@ 14.4V Ƈ%THD+N, 20Hz - 20kHz) 50W x 4
Per channel into 2 Ohms: (@ 14.4V Ƈ%THD+N, 20Hz - 20kHz) 75W x 4
Bridged 4 Ohms: (@ 14.4V Ƈ%THD+N, 20Hz - 20kHz) 150W x 2
I have 2 options.
Option 1 - run active mode and buy separate tweeters and have each tweeter and each JL coax run at 50W
Option 2 - run passive mode and just buy a new set of components that will be running at 150W
Each sub will be running 250W each.
Which is the better option?
I'm almost done with buying all my pieces for my system. This is what I have so far...
Alpine CDA-9887
Alpine MRP-M500
Alpine MRP-F300
2 ID10v3
JL 5x7's coaxials (cant remember the model number)
The alpine deck has an option that will let me run active. I drive a Regular Cab 2004 Tacoma (only 2 doors, only 4 speakers - 2 mids in the door and 2 tweeters).
Here are the specs for the MRP-F300
RMS Power Ratings
Per channel into 4 Ohms: (@ 14.4V Ƈ%THD+N, 20Hz - 20kHz) 50W x 4
Per channel into 2 Ohms: (@ 14.4V Ƈ%THD+N, 20Hz - 20kHz) 75W x 4
Bridged 4 Ohms: (@ 14.4V Ƈ%THD+N, 20Hz - 20kHz) 150W x 2
I have 2 options.
Option 1 - run active mode and buy separate tweeters and have each tweeter and each JL coax run at 50W
Option 2 - run passive mode and just buy a new set of components that will be running at 150W
Each sub will be running 250W each.
Which is the better option?