Sealent for gaps in box?

Hoots

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I have a 32 hz 2.5 cu ft ported box that is leaking air from the baffle , its a small gap from the top portion to baffle running along the width of the enclosure. Its a lot of air i'm losing and I think my sub was bottoming out. The top portion is glued and stapled in , so it will be hard to take out , what sealent can I use to fill the gaps? I was going to try using my fingers to get the sealent into the gap/crack and then clamp it.

Pics: View attachment 26551015View attachment 26551016

I will take a close up of gap if needed , any input is appreciated , wood a silicone or titone 2 work?

 
While building my boxes if I have any leaks I use sawdust and glue but since your box is already built that is probably not possible. I have used wood filler and rtv silicone on top of it when the wood filler hardens. Some of the more experienced box builders may chime in with a better solution.

 
Add another layer of wood on the top(if room allows) stop the leak and increase the rigidity to the enclosure. 24x48 piece is about 12.00 have the home store cut it down to the correct size.

 
I have a 32 hz 2.5 cu ft ported box that is leaking air from the baffle , its a small gap from the top portion to baffle running along the width of the enclosure. Its a lot of air i'm losing and I think my sub was bottoming out. The top portion is glued and stapled in , so it will be hard to take out , what sealent can I use to fill the gaps? I was going to try using my fingers to get the sealent into the gap/crack and then clamp it.
Pics: View attachment 26551015View attachment 26551016

I will take a close up of gap if needed , any input is appreciated , wood a silicone or titone 2 work?
fiberglass , silicone , or go inside it and add a layer of glue then put toilet tissue over the top of it when it dries the fibers combine with the glue and harden up to act like fiberglass , if your gonna use silicone let it dry at least 48 hours to cure or the fumes will eat at your subs surround

 
Are there screws in the box? If not, put some screws in that panel to pull the wood together. Make sure to drill the holes first to not have the wood split. Then hit it with more glue, silicone, wood filler or a combination of these.

 
Are there screws in the box? If not, put some screws in that panel to pull the wood together. Make sure to drill the holes first to not have the wood split. Then hit it with more glue, silicone, wood filler or a combination of these.
I just filled all the seals on the inside of the box with ge silicone 2. I then used titebond 2 with sawdust and filled all the gaps throughout the box , it dried pretty fast and so far it looks great. Once it fully drys , im giving it the full 24 hours , should I add silicone on top of the titebond and sawdust just to make it even more seal proof?

 
I just filled all the seals on the inside of the box with ge silicone 2. I then used titebond 2 with sawdust and filled all the gaps throughout the box , it dried pretty fast and so far it looks great. Once it fully drys , im giving it the full 24 hours , should I add silicone on top of the titebond and sawdust just to make it even more seal proof?
Awesome. I would just to be safe but probably not required as mentioned earlier you should let the silicone completly dry before mounting the subs. I tilt my boxes toward light to see if there are any leaks, if when the glue dries and you see no light from the inside of the box you should be good to go. But if your like me and want to take an extra step to make sure its seal, silicone after wont hurt.

 
I just filled all the seals on the inside of the box with ge silicone 2. I then used titebond 2 with sawdust and filled all the gaps throughout the box , it dried pretty fast and so far it looks great. Once it fully drys , im giving it the full 24 hours , should I add silicone on top of the titebond and sawdust just to make it even more seal proof?
might as well do a complete and thorough job. Add some internal bracing while you are at it. A strong flexless box without leaks = stronger and better sounding bass.

 
might as well do a complete and thorough job. Add some internal bracing while you are at it. A strong flexless box without leaks = stronger and better sounding bass.
What do you mean internal bracing? I have 4 slanted peices of wood on each corner of the box if thats what you mean lol? Will add pics later.

 
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