SAZ-3000, 40.1, T40001BD, or Z1

Which amp for my setup?

  • Sundown SAZ-3000

    Votes: 24 38.7%
  • IA 40.1

    Votes: 9 14.5%
  • RF T40001BD

    Votes: 23 37.1%
  • DD Z1

    Votes: 6 9.7%

  • Total voters
    62
u know if you didnt sell your amp a while back i wouldnt of even had the option available to buy the RF cause I would have already bought yours but thanks for the input
Well ****, now I feel bad //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

Seriously though, some people like to throw around numbers from a 16v electrical dropping to 14v and call it what the amp makes on a solid 14v system. I just don't see it that way, unless you have a setup that charges at 14.4 with zero voltage drop. I just don't see most daily people having that electrical setup.

 
Well ****, now I feel bad //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif
Seriously though, some people like to throw around numbers from a 16v electrical dropping to 14v and call it what the amp makes on a solid 14v system. I just don't see it that way, unless you have a setup that charges at 14.4 with zero voltage drop. I just don't see most daily people having that electrical setup.
Im guessing thats a stab at me, well I'm going to address it here b/c im tired of reading it.

A true "16v setup" will actually float around 18v. The setup I used for my power numbers were on some 8v golf cart batteries that were garbage and floated at best around 15.8 fresh off a 3day trickle charge. I also only used battery power. and no alternator at all. Call it what you wish but when I drop down to below 14v i find it to be as close as possible other than putting it on a rediculously large 12v bank + an expensive alt.

My numbers reflect my testing, if you dont like them your free to test amplifiers on your own. Nobody else seems to have a problem believing the rest of my numbers

Also the saz1500d testing we did was on a 14.4 setup that dropped to 12.8 and we got 2500 watts out of each of them, so the expectation that a amp 2x the size of the 1500d does 2x the power is far from unrealistic

 
Im guessing thats a stab at me, well I'm going to address it here b/c im tired of reading it.
A true "16v setup" will actually float around 18v. The setup I used for my power numbers were on some 8v golf cart batteries that were garbage and floated at best around 15.8 fresh off a 3day trickle charge. I also only used battery power. and no alternator at all. Call it what you wish but when I drop down to below 14v i find it to be as close as possible other than putting it on a rediculously large 12v bank + an expensive alt.

My numbers reflect my testing, if you dont like them your free to test amplifiers on your own. Nobody else seems to have a problem believing the rest of my numbers

Also the saz1500d testing we did was on a 14.4 setup that dropped to 12.8 and we got 2500 watts out of each of them, so the expectation that a amp 2x the size of the 1500d does 2x the power is far from realistic
I agree the setup you had isn't a typical high voltage setup with an alt charging at 18v. Its just not a normal 12v testing situation it is a higher resting voltage and just not a good representation of what most 12v system guys are going to run or test out at. Basically just saying its not apples to apples.

I haven't done any testing of these amps so you definately have more experience than I. I'm just try to understand the difference when somebody says "x amp makes y power at 14-ish volts" without stating the electrical system behind it. I'm just used to looking at the power numbers from the tests listed on the Sundown forum on SSA.

Not trying to bash anybody or any product. Just trying to make sure people explain their electrical when they give results, so if somebody wants the same results they know what electrical setup to recreate.

 
From 12.5- 15.8V I would vote the Z1a, Secondly would be the IA 40.1. On a 16V system the IA blows the Z1a out of the water. The only problems people had with the Z1a's is they don't like lots of vibes from a back of the box. Z1a on 16V system 16-18.3V WOOHOOO. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif pOLO..

 
From 12.5- 15.8V I would vote the Z1a, Secondly would be the IA 40.1. On a 16V system the IA blows the Z1a out of the water. The only problems people had with the Z1a's is they don't like lots of vibes from a back of the box. Z1a on 16V system 16-18.3V WOOHOOO. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif pOLO..
its wouldnt be a z1a, just a z1. If I could afford a z1a I would just get two saz3000 or two 40.1s

 
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