Same old question, just need new points of view for new front stage

[Skinkutter 10+ year member]

I am thinking 2 sets of RE XXX 6.5's Woofers in lower door, one tweeter just above and one in A-pillar. Just wondering if there are better 2ohm offerings out there? Staying passive for a few months then going active. I will be using all A/D/S power on them at 40, 50, 80, 100, 150, or 200 watts TRUE RMS depending on the speaker limits. I want to be LOUD and CLEAR I am looking for input on other offerings in this price range that will be any better than the xxx's I know there are other offerings from Rainbow, CDT, DLS in this price range, just have no idea which are the best. Price range 500-700 for 2 sets 2OHM to run series at 4ohm/channel. Music we will say is top 40 to cover everything LOL Mostly Classic rock though OOH yeah that Dire Straits is gonna sound live! But I can still bump the Lil' Wayne. LOL

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[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

I would run two of the convertible CDT 2 Ohm sets so you can do a coaxial mount on one set and split up the other set if you prefer a separate tweeter. Putting tweeters on the A-pillars does help raise the sound stage but it introduces a lot of reflections off the glass at the same time. I'm not sure what you meant by listing all those power numbers but I would go with 200 Watts at 4 Ohms for 2 sets of 6.5s.

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

U don't necessarily need 2 ohm mids in series to get 4 ohms final. Look for 8 ohm mids and parallel them to 4 ohms. That gives u waaaaay more options.

Check out partsexpress.com and madisound

 

[Skinkutter 10+ year member]

U don't necessarily need 2 ohm mids in series to get 4 ohms final. Look for 8 ohm mids and parallel them to 4 ohms. That gives u waaaaay more options.
Check out partsexpress.com and madisound

If I do that, I have to go active right away, And I do not have the time for that at the moment. But thanks Prince, you are always very helpful!

 

---------- Post added at 02:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:09 PM ----------

 

Any opinion on these? RAINBOW SLC 265.25 NG 6.5" COMPONENT SET SPEAKERS

 

[Skinkutter 10+ year member]

I would run two of the convertible CDT 2 Ohm sets so you can do a coaxial mount on one set and split up the other set if you prefer a separate tweeter. Putting tweeters on the A-pillars does help raise the sound stage but it introduces a lot of reflections off the glass at the same time. I'm not sure what you meant by listing all those power numbers but I would go with 200 Watts at 4 Ohms for 2 sets of 6.5s.

The coax is definitely not the road for me, my tahoe has a stock tweeter location in the door already.

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

If I do that, I have to go active right away, And I do not have the time for that at the moment. But thanks Prince, you are always very helpful! 

---------- Post added at 02:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:09 PM ----------

 

Any opinion on these? RAINBOW SLC 265.25 NG 6.5" COMPONENT SET SPEAKERS

Those rainbows are very nice. I almost bought a set.

Also, why would u have to go active if u went with 8 ohm mids?

 

[Skinkutter 10+ year member]

Those rainbows are very nice. I almost bought a set.
Also, why would u have to go active if u went with 8 ohm mids?

I thought that the passive x-overs values would change when I change the speakers resistance. Besides I've looked on parts express and I have Noooo idea what a good 6 1/2" mid would be.

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

I thought that the passive x-overs values would change when I change the speakers resistance. Besides I've looked on parts express and I have Noooo idea what a good 6 1/2" mid would be.

Yea the xover point will change with the final ohm load. Are your current mids 4 ohms? U can still do the paralleled 8 ohm mids to a final 4 ohms and have the same xover point as series wired 2 ohm mids.

As far as what to look for, look into peerless, scanspeak, Dayton, and silver flute off the top of my head.

Also, if u see a mid that interests u, you can always post it here or search it on diyma. They use a lot more of the raw drivers than guys here.

 

[Skinkutter 10+ year member]

Yea the xover point will change with the final ohm load. Are your current mids 4 ohms? U can still do the paralleled 8 ohm mids to a final 4 ohms and have the same xover point as series wired 2 ohm mids.
As far as what to look for, look into peerless, scanspeak, Dayton, and silver flute off the top of my head.

Also, if u see a mid that interests u, you can always post it here or search it on diyma. They use a lot more of the raw drivers than guys here.

Like I said, I really appreciate your input, as you are a knowledgeable person and always helpful. Im going to shuffle over to DIYMA and find out what all it would take to design a single crossover to run my entire front stage. I have been a box builder since the 80's, but I never got into all the technical BS of x-overs. I think this will be the bulk of my project!

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

Like I said, I really appreciate your input, as you are a knowledgeable person and always helpful. Im going to shuffle over to DIYMA and find out what all it would take to design a single crossover to run my entire front stage. I have been a box builder since the 80's, but I never got into all the technical BS of x-overs. I think this will be the bulk of my project!

I looked into designing an xover a while back. Seems fun....active is definitely easier though.

This should help ya with mid choices: A subjective comparison of popular 7" drivers - DIYMA Car Audio Forum

 

[galacticmonkey 5,000+ posts]

For that price, you should be able to make a pretty killer set of DIY comps with an 8" or maybe even 10" midbass and a nice tweeter. Just run a beefy 2ch on the mids then a smaller 2ch on the set of tweets.

 

[Skinkutter 10+ year member]

Think Im going to make my own active x-over and these mids look great. Peerless 830990 6-1/2" GFC Cone HDS Woofer and only around 340 for 6 off them.