RS Help Please

daboyfrumdabx
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
Hey guys, I installed a viper 5901 yesterday. To the best of my knowledge everything is installed correctly and my issue is just something in the settings but I just can't get it work.

Everything relating to the alarm portion is working 100%. The remote starter will start the car but the car will shut off immediately and no error code is given(the remote just says "remote start off"). At first it would run for about 15 seconds then shut down. I messed around with the tach settings(virtual tach, voltage, off, and tachometer) and now the car shuts off immediately. I tried not connecting the tachometer wire and using both the virtual tach and voltage settings, no go. I then connected the tach wire and tried the tachometer setting and no go. Any one have any idea what it could be or any advice to help me troubleshoot the issue? Thanks in advance.

 
I've tried setting the system for tach and hooking up the wire. My instructions say to program tach I have to start the car with the key and press and hold the control button within 5 seconds of starting, then wait till the LED lights up, at which point it's programmed. Still doesn't work. I'm lost at this point

 
Ok what exactly doesnt work? When you try to program the tach? If so, either you arent doing it right or you have the wrong tach wire. You should verify it with a meter. Set the meter to AC and tach wire should read between 1v and 6v and will increase with the RPM's.

 
Check your remote start shutdown diagnostics. After the vehicle shuts down, the parking lights will flash and you'll hear the relay click a certain number of times. That # of times corresponds to why it's shutting down, check the manual.

Also, in order to make sure it has to do with the starter itself and not the bypass module (if it has one) is put the key in the ignition and then start it. If it stays running, you know it's a module issue, if not, it's the starter.

One last thing to check is your ground! if it's shutting down 5-10 seconds after remote started, the brain could be pulling ground through something such as the parking light circuit, and as soon as it loses ground shuts the unit off.

 
Ok what exactly doesnt work? When you try to program the tach? If so, either you arent doing it right or you have the wrong tach wire. You should verify it with a meter. Set the meter to AC and tach wire should read between 1v and 6v and will increase with the RPM's.
Nope, the LED lights up just as the manual says, programming is working. Already verified the tach wire //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

Check your remote start shutdown diagnostics. After the vehicle shuts down, the parking lights will flash and you'll hear the relay click a certain number of times. That # of times corresponds to why it's shutting down, check the manual.
Also, in order to make sure it has to do with the starter itself and not the bypass module (if it has one) is put the key in the ignition and then start it. If it stays running, you know it's a module issue, if not, it's the starter.

One last thing to check is your ground! if it's shutting down 5-10 seconds after remote started, the brain could be pulling ground through something such as the parking light circuit, and as soon as it loses ground shuts the unit off.
The remote just says "remote start off", not "remote start error" and therefore doesn't blink the parking lights or click the relay. I was looking for that initially because the unit came default in manual mode and that was the first issue I ran into but was able to handle that do the number of clicks.

I'm going to go check that key trick now. Too dark to mess with the ground now but if this key thing doesn't determine the issue, that will be first on the list for tomorrow.

 
New symptoms....obviously. Went out try out that key trick. If the key is in the ignition when I try to start it, it won't start and tells me on the remote that the key is in the ignition. Otherwise, if I just try to start with the remote, it won't start at all now. Headlights and dash lights and all turn on but it doesn't even crank. Would you guys still bank on an immobilizer issue?

 
Also wanted to add that the remote now says "remote start error" and the lights do do not flash. My manual interprets no flashing to mean that the alarm is triggered?

'04 Pontiac Grand Am. Security light in the dash(for Passlock) has been on solid for months now. My research told me that if it's on solid it means that the system disabled itself due to an error. If it's blinking it means the passlock has been activated and hence the car will not start. But it's solid so it should start. Key starts it fine. My last Grand Am('01) had the same light on, but the remote start worked fine in it.

 
Also wanted to add that the remote now says "remote start error" and the lights do do not flash. My manual interprets no flashing to mean that the alarm is triggered?
'04 Pontiac Grand Am. Security light in the dash(for Passlock) has been on solid for months now. My research told me that if it's on solid it means that the system disabled itself due to an error. If it's blinking it means the passlock has been activated and hence the car will not start. But it's solid so it should start. Key starts it fine. My last Grand Am('01) had the same light on, but the remote start worked fine in it.
The door triggers on your car need to be diode isolated. Did you do that? If not, you will have false triggers.

Also, what kind of bypass did you use?

 
here something to do disconnect all power from remote for about 3 mins, check your ground wire take it alose and reconnect then reconnect the power to the remote start/alarm and then go through the programming again for the tach setting...speaking from a similar situation that happen to me...lmk if this helped solved your problem Forgot make sure your neutral safety switch wire is grounded properly.

 
Alright so I made some progress this morning, it was something I did consider yesterday but since it didn't pose an issue with my last car, I didn't think it was the cause. Car started with the remote. So I took a DMM to the brake wire and measured the voltage, it was sitting around 2V while the car idled and the voltage slowly climbs until it reaches a level high enough to simulate the pedal being pressed and shuts off. I disconnected the brake wire from the Viper unit and ran it to ground where it obviously won't experience any voltage and the car starts and runs for the desired amount of time with no issues.

I have LED tail lights on my car and had them on my last Grand Am as well. My experience with both is that I can not use the cruise control function when the lights are on. So I'm guessing the tail lights are backfeeding some voltage and making the car think the brake in pressed therefore not allowing cruise control to engage. Or if cruise is on and then I turn the lights on, cruise shuts off within a few seconds. That issue was the same for both cars. However, the tail lights never posed an issue for the remote start on the last car. Both units are DEI units so I would've thought they'd react the same since the car were essentially the same.

So the new question, you guys have any idea how I can fix this tail light issue if it is indeed backfeeding into the system? I'd like to be able to hook up the brake wire again because obviously it's a safety feature.

Thank you all for trying to help me diagnose the issue and thank you in advance for anyone that can help me from here.

 
Installing a diode or diodes prevent backfeed. You can do the same thing with a relay too. How do you wire it up with your tail light issue?.....I dont know.

 
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daboyfrumdabx

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