RetorAudio's review; Damp Pro and SPL Tiles

[RetroAudioinc 5,000+ posts]

THIS IS MY REVIEW FOR A FREE DOOR PACK OF SECOND SKIN AUDIO DAMP PRO I WON & SPL TILES I PURCHASED!

First off let me say a big thanks to ANT from Second Skin Audio.

I had a major issue with my back wall moving and making noise, was very annoying and needed to be fixed. I had not had a chance to ever use Second Skin before and really wanted to give it a shot with all the reviews and compliments I had seen about their product.

Products used Damp Pro, SPL Tiles, Edead 45;

The first photo is of the area to have the damp pro and the spl tiles to be installed.. In the back wall there is a ridge and I was able to take the SPL tile and form it to the shape. Then I just pulled the back off and it kept the shape I just made very well due to the foil being so thick. It looks like a sheet aluminum with sticky stuff on it, is the best way I can describe?

I started on the back wall at the top. Due to the top being a bit weaker I used 10 SPL tiles across there very top (6 full sheets and 3 cut in half across). I must say I thought the SPL tiles would be a pain to cut but I was actually able to cut them with a pair of scissors.

Got a little messy on the fingers with the damp pro. On a scale of 1 to 10, messy wise maybe a 4 where fat mat was maybe a 2. But the Damp Pro is MUCH more sticky so it's worth it. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Click to read more...

 

[RetroAudioinc 5,000+ posts]

Next is the Damp Pro on the main wall. This is kind of a pain as it has a lot of "humps" in the back wall and has to bend like 2 different ways.

Then on the floor there we laid it down. It took 3 sheets to do this and that is the end of my Damp Pro.

Next is the floor under the 1/3 seat and where the false floor will be put in and box on top of that. Unfortunately, I did not have the money for Damp Pro but found a deal on Edead 45 mil. I must say this stuff feels funny. It's not a foil, it's like a plastic on the bottom that you peel off and the top "looks like" foil. I think its foil colored plastic? Cheap. But I got it cheap so I thought I would put it down on the floor since it can't slide down or fall off. Since it's SO thin I will have to cover it with Edead V3 paint on deadener tomorrow. So Edead = 2x the work. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

So here is the finished product for tonight. All Second Skin is installed plus about 15' of Edead 45. The back wall will have a 2x4 run across and MDF on top of that screwed down on the back wall covered in Edead V3 and carpet to help brace the wall a bit. I will also be putting tennis balls between the back wall and the beed to reinforce it a bit more, about 3 of them across the back.

System to be installed:

Memphis 4k

Tru to3.150.4

2 Prototype Sundown Nightshade 12"s.

Box 2.75 cubes each tuned to 40 hz.

4 DD 6.5's for the doors 4 tweeters in front door.

 

 

If I was to rate the Damp Pro I would give it a solid 9.5/10 or A+

If I was to rate the SPL TILES I would give it a solid 8.5/10 or A

Reason for ratings.

Damp pro is the best stuff I have ever used. Very good.

SPL Tiles I have 2 issues with. 1. It's really small it needs to be available in bigger sheets. 2. It's a bit sticky to the hands, but I am not complaining as I would rather it be super sticky.

 

[Brian_smith06 10+ year member]

very nice.

so should i give the spl tiles a shot?

 

[RetroAudioinc 5,000+ posts]

If you have very bad spots YES, any other issue use damp pro it will work great.. The spl tiles are very small.

 

[Pioneer~Saturn 5,000+ posts]

Lookin good, cant wait for my door pack to get here.

 

[tspence73 10+ year member]

Hello,

I suppose it wasn't mentioned that with the SPL tiles you only really need 25% coverage to get the same resonance reduction as 100% coverage?

I bought the EXACT same grade SPL tiles from Don Sambrook of Sound Deadener Showdown and I can effectively do my entire car with about 36 - 50 tiles carefully spaced out. If you want rattle reduction you'll need closed cell foam in between the plastic panels, wires, etc. And if you want to block out external noise use a layer of mass loaded vinyl over the top of a layer of closed cell foam. That is a better plan for sound deadening your vehicle than just smothering everything with constrained layer damper. Just trying to help.

 

[RetroAudioinc 5,000+ posts]

Hello,
I suppose it wasn't mentioned that with the SPL tiles you only really need 25% coverage to get the same resonance reduction as 100% coverage?

I bought the EXACT same grade SPL tiles from Don Sambrook of Sound Deadener Showdown and I can effectively do my entire car with about 36 - 50 tiles carefully spaced out. If you want rattle reduction you'll need closed cell foam in between the plastic panels, wires, etc. And if you want to block out external noise use a layer of mass loaded vinyl over the top of a layer of closed cell foam. That is a better plan for sound deadening your vehicle than just smothering everything with constrained layer damper. Just trying to help.

Well that back wall is like nothing you have ever seen it moves in and out more then a sub close to an inch back in forth.. haha. So I went extreme.. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Road and engine noise I am not so worried about its a diesel I am not sure it will ever sound like a bmw in side.. lol

 

[tspence73 10+ year member]

Well that back wall is like nothing you have ever seen it moves in and out more then a sub close to an inch back in forth.. haha. So I went extreme.. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Road and engine noise I am not so worried about its a diesel I am not sure it will ever sound like a bmw in side.. lol

You have to use the correct tool for the job. Constrained layer damper is to 'reduce' the metal's resonances that occurs after it's struck. A big time flexing panel isn't going to be resolved by smothering CLD on it. If you want to stop a panel from moving like that (assuming it's making noise) then bracing/stiffening the panel is the solution, not damping.

If your back wall is a big hollow section between two pieces of metal, you can squirt expanding foam between them and the result will be better than anything you'll get with CLD tiles. If you don't have a panel behind the wall and can't use expanding foam, the the other option is to buy extremely stiff and unbendable planks of metal and secure them to the back panel with a closed cell foam between them and several fastening points. The stiff beams will keep the wall braced and stop the movement.

This should ONLY be needed if your back wall's movement is causing audible noises. If it's not making any audible noise, there is no need to treat it any further.

 

[RetroAudioinc 5,000+ posts]

I do plan to brace it, only the top part where the spl tiles are is double walled, I can get in there and plane to do great stuff in there now that it's sealed up all the holes with the spl tiles.

The back wall is the amp rack more less, so 2x4 or 2 across the back lower parts, foam in side the top part, MDF placed on top for amp rack.

If that does not stop it I can get some closed cell to put over it by just removing the amp rack.. Its the only part of the truck that really bad to be honest and the roof but I am not to sure on removing my head liner yet never done that and really don't know how it's attached I would HATE to F up my head liner.. lol

 

[tspence73 10+ year member]

I do plan to brace it, only the top part where the spl tiles are is double walled, I can get in there and plane to do great stuff in there now that it's sealed up all the holes with the spl tiles.
The back wall is the amp rack more less, so 2x4 or 2 across the back lower parts, foam in side the top part, MDF placed on top for amp rack.

If that does not stop it I can get some closed cell to put over it by just removing the amp rack.. Its the only part of the truck that really bad to be honest and the roof but I am not to sure on removing my head liner yet never done that and really don't know how it's attached I would HATE to F up my head liner.. lol

Most people will end up using closed cell foam for multiple small sections to eliminate rattle between the metal frame and the plastic panels. I bought myself a bunch of 1/8th and 1/4th inch closed cell foam and I plan to now find a nice amount of 1/16th inch foam for those tight spaces that rattle but need think foam to separate them.

I also plan to take apart my dash and use closed cell foam at the bolt points to reduce the rattles that the flexing frame causes. When you can't tighten/stiffen a flexing panel, then put closed cell foam between it and anything it touches to get rid of the rattles.

So many people think full coverage CLD (dynamat) over everything is a 'cure-all'. It's not. You will end up spending tons of money smothering everything with CLD and find there are still plenty of noises and rattles.

Stiffening a panel to stop it from flexing will increase your SPL but not all panels can be siffened without tons of extra work. The easiest and quickest way to stiffen a panel is if there is another piece of metal behind it and you squirt expanding foam between them. Works quick and a general 'knock test' proves it stops panel flexing dead.

BUT, BE CAREFUL where you squirt expanding foam and how much you're using in a short period.

1. Servicability! Expanding foam shouldn't be used directly in a pocket where wires and parts may need to be serviced (unless you can squirt around them and leave a clear space to access the parts).

2. Bulging/warping panels! Expanding foam shouldn't be over-used. Try to use only enough. The reason is that while it cures it will be expanding MORE and could end up warping your metal panels.

3. Curing/hardening A good rule of thumb for me so far has been to use no more than two handfuls of foam at a time. Squirt some and LET IT CURE for a few DAYS before squirting more then repeat. If you use too much at a time you'll run the risk of the center of the foam not hardening properly and it won't stiffen as well.