Replacing dvc door speakers

[dangerousbrian]

The replacement speaker you need to buy needs to be DVC. There is no way to correctly parallel an amp/headunit wiring from DVC to SVC.

So, source some 2-ohm 6.5-8" DVC speakers. Looks like that adapter/speaker mount hogs much space and you can craft your own speaker mount adapter for whatever brand speaker you want, as long as its DVC and guessing 2-ohm. You had to measure it with your multimeter.

How much chopping fabricating trimming do you want to do?

Its a nice car. So, find a competent shop to sort this out.

There’s actually quite a lot of space behind, so the speaker mount actually screws to a deeper adapter on the door that probably adds another 3in of depth again.

Its just getting the wiring right or if it’s even possible, I’d be happy finding a good quality 6.5in dvc, only it doesn’t seem like there’s many options. Open to suggestions.

 

[deadrx7conv 10+ year member]

Most common DVC speakers are subwoofers.

The only other option is to carve the door and use 2 speakers. Or, find a DSP that can combine signals, and feed the processing to a good amp.

 

[HardofWhoring]

Do you want a fresh one of it apart?

Do you add those self-solder shrink tubes on there?

Yeah, that's a 6.5" DVC sub. They do make those, you can find 6.5" dvc subs and replace them, but you would want to know what wattage you are getting off that amp. My guess it's one amp pushing the tweeters and then to each coil, so probably really low wattage.

You could do this to check what AC voltage is coming off your speaker wires and find out what wattage you are able to get. (Whether there is distortion, or how close it is to max, you wouldn't know).


Then you could change your subs and know what wattage you are targeting. You would also want to check the resistance/ohms of each coil. I would stay the same resistance based on that amp probably can't get to a lower ohm.

How much of the rest of the system do you want to keep? If it's not good enough, you can use a Line Output Converter (LOC) to get a signal if you want to keep your head unit, and it doesn't have RCA outputs. From there you add in your own amp, and what speakers you want.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Are you sure its a DVC speaker? Look at the speaker connections and look to see if you only have on set of spider leads going to the coil and if the second terminals are just sitting on the speaker base for supply to the tweeter. I can not see from these pics Im looking at to determine that conclusion. It could be a SVC speaker with a base mount connection to supply the tweeter by the harness connection

 

[dangerousbrian]

Do you add those self-solder shrink tubes on there?

Yeah, that's a 6.5" DVC sub. They do make those, you can find 6.5" dvc subs and replace them, but you would want to know what wattage you are getting off that amp. My guess it's one amp pushing the tweeters and then to each coil, so probably really low wattage.

You could do this to check what AC voltage is coming off your speaker wires and find out what wattage you are able to get. (Whether there is distortion, or how close it is to max, you wouldn't know).


Then you could change your subs and know what wattage you are targeting. You would also want to check the resistance/ohms of each coil. I would stay the same resistance based on that amp probably can't get to a lower ohm.

How much of the rest of the system do you want to keep? If it's not good enough, you can use a Line Output Converter (LOC) to get a signal if you want to keep your head unit, and it doesn't have RCA outputs. From there you add in your own amp, and what speakers you want.

Lol yeah that was my snipping/rejoining of wires. The number of times I’ve had the speaker/terminals on/off wired differently etc just been doing lots of testing so far tbh.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

This is everything, the amp is a pain to get to behind the drivers seat, so at the moment this is all I have.

I see the leads/in the first pic here but i can not see the cone areas

 

[dangerousbrian]

Are you sure its a DVC speaker? Look at the speaker connections and look to see if you only have on set of spider leads going to the coil and if the second terminals are just sitting on the speaker base for supply to the tweeter. I can not see from these pics Im looking at to determine that conclusion. It could be a SVC speaker with a base mount connection to supply the tweeter by the harness connection

It’s definitely dvc and has a separate pair of wires for the tweeter.

 

[dangerousbrian]

This was taken from a mclaren forum where someone replaced theirs on a 720s….

I tried the same, but less desirable results.

***I’m mostly making this post to let everyone know that any 6.5” speakers fit as a replacement of the regular audio system. However, there is a very big quirk in the stock speakers. The stock McLaren speaker is a dual voice coil speaker and all aftermarket speakers (unless it’s a subwoofer) are a single voice coil. So in order to make an aftermarket speaker work you must put a “jumper” (a wire connecting 2 terminals together) between the two positive terminals and only connect once negative terminal.***

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

It’s definitely dvc and has a separate pair of wires for the tweeter.

Gotcha. You can use a DMM to verify what Ohm load each coil is. It could be 6/8/or 4 Ohm? remove each wire on the speaker and test each coil with a DMM to tell you what the Ohm value is.I havent found that information yet

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

This was taken from a mclaren forum where someone replaced theirs on a 720s….

I tried the same, but less desirable results.

***I’m mostly making this post to let everyone know that any 6.5” speakers fit as a replacement of the regular audio system. However, there is a very big quirk in the stock speakers. The stock McLaren speaker is a dual voice coil speaker and all aftermarket speakers (unless it’s a subwoofer) are a single voice coil. So in order to make an aftermarket speaker work you must put a “jumper” (a wire connecting 2 terminals together) between the two positive terminals and only connect once negative terminal.***

What Ohm value does that end with done this way??

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Gotcha. You can use a DMM to verify what Ohm load each coil is. It could be 6/8/or 4 Ohm? remove each wire on the speaker and test each coil with a DMM to tell you what the Ohm value is.I havent found that information yet

Even 2 ohm?

 

[dangerousbrian]

Even 2 ohm?

apparently stock speakers are 2 ohm

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

apparently stock speakers are 2 ohm

Wired correctly if the woofers final Ohm load is 2 ohm and the tweeter is 2ohm with the proper capasitor or crossover it will and should be a final 2 ohm load

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I have never seen that speaker. Very Interesting

 

[HardofWhoring]

This was taken from a mclaren forum where someone replaced theirs on a 720s….

I tried the same, but less desirable results.

***I’m mostly making this post to let everyone know that any 6.5” speakers fit as a replacement of the regular audio system. However, there is a very big quirk in the stock speakers. The stock McLaren speaker is a dual voice coil speaker and all aftermarket speakers (unless it’s a subwoofer) are a single voice coil. So in order to make an aftermarket speaker work you must put a “jumper” (a wire connecting 2 terminals together) between the two positive terminals and only connect once negative terminal.***

Can't you just wire each coil separately? If you have a 200w DVC sub, you wire 200w to it....

If you find out how much wattage you are getting and lets say it's 100w off the one speaker wire, that is one side. So you're getting 200w per channel, you can then wire it 200w to each coil, and you would get 400w to the sub.

It's not a flaw, it's a way to use a really simple amp that pushes the same wattage to every channel, and lets you double the wattage to the sub.