Replaced factory speakers and head-unit: The Sound *****

[E_Scapegoat]

I have a 2005 Honda and I recently replaced all the factory speakers with:

Kicker 40CS654 6.5 inch 2-Way Speakers

(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B9H8L4K?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00)

100watt RMS

and replaced the head unit with:

Power Acoustik PDN 626B Double Din AM/FM/DVD/BT 6.2-Inch with Navigation

(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T3QC3JS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00)

"75wattx4"

The sound quality is pretty awful. I can hardly turn it up without distortion happening. Am I correct to assume that that is because the speakers are being underpowered?

If so, what is the best way to add an amp which will add power to it without having to reroute all the wires? Also, I would like the idea of still using some of the power from the headunit, instead of just using a powerful amp to fuel all 4 speakers.

Would just installing a powered sub and turning the head unit on "sub mode" be enough to reduce the power demand, or is that a stupid idea?

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[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I have a 2005 Honda and I recently replaced all the factory speakers with:Kicker 40CS654 6.5 inch 2-Way Speakers

(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B9H8L4K?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00)

100watt RMS

and replaced the head unit with:

Power Acoustik PDN 626B Double Din AM/FM/DVD/BT 6.2-Inch with Navigation

(Amazon.com: Power Acoustik PDN 626B Double Din AM/FM/DVD/BT 6.2-Inch with Navigation: Electronics)

"75wattx4"

The sound quality is pretty awful. I can hardly turn it up without distortion happening. Am I correct to assume that that is because the speakers are being underpowered?

If so, what is the best way to add an amp which will add power to it without having to reroute all the wires? Also, I would like the idea of still using some of the power from the headunit, instead of just using a powerful amp to fuel all 4 speakers.

Would just installing a powered sub and turning the head unit on "sub mode" be enough to reduce the power demand, or is that a stupid idea?

You made the mistake of thinking putting a new head unit and slapping some speakers in will give you a sound quality upgrade. There's a lot of work required to making an aftermarket system work.

#1 first off is equipment selection. Power acoustik is one of the worst brands out there in terms of performance and reliability. Their build quality reflects the sound you get from them. The head unit is one of the biggest things that makes your system sound good, cheap head unit will always put out cheap sound even if you got the best speakers in the world in your car.

You also want to eventually amp your speakers but its not really the main reason why your system sounds horrible right now. It should still sound okay even on head unit power.

#2 you need to do a proper install.

Here's two videos you need to watch and learn and see what you can do for a more proper speaker install.



Continuing #2 with the install, you need to make sure the speakers are in phase and test to see if they are wired out of phase by flipping the positive and negative on one side or test with a 9 volt battery.

#3 is to have a proper tune. You need to EQ, set crossovers properly. High pass filter at 63-80hz. play with the EQ until the sound gets better.

 

[E_Scapegoat]

#1 well I'm SOL at this point on that front I guess?.. You're saying I should somehow try to trade it in for a higher performance build? I simple do not plan on spending $300+ or a $500 system ultimately- I just want to go the path of least resistance to be able to go loud without distortion- with or without subs.

#2 I'm sure build a custom fittings for each speaker would increase response, but my problem right now is distortion. I currently have 4 screws directly fastening the speakers to the frame- they sounded fine before I switched out the rear factory speakers last week, now there is distortion everywhere at volume.

#2 b thank you for the tip- I will do the 9v test for the new rear speakers.

#3 I tweaked with the EQ on the head unit which helped.. which is more important, fabricating speaker enclosures or getting external crossovers and a board?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

#1 well I'm SOL at this point on that front I guess?.. You're saying I should somehow try to trade it in for a higher performance build? I simple do not plan on spending $300+ or a $500 system ultimately- I just want to go the path of least resistance to be able to go loud without distortion- with or without subs.
#2 I'm sure build a custom fittings for each speaker would increase response, but my problem right now is distortion. I currently have 4 screws directly fastening the speakers to the frame- they sounded fine before I switched out the rear factory speakers last week, now there is distortion everywhere at volume.

#2 b thank you for the tip- I will do the 9v test for the new rear speakers.

#3 I tweaked with the EQ on the head unit which helped.. which is more important, fabricating speaker enclosures or getting external crossovers and a board?

Distortion at high volumes only or at any volume? Are you trying to get a lot of bass out of the speakers? Whats the current head unit crossover settings at? It should have a high pass filter.

on the gear part, you can still just work with what you have, hopefully its just a slight install and tune fix. just in the future, stay away from boss, pyle, power acoustic, jensen head units. Stick with kenwood, pioneer, alpine.

 

[disturbed471985 5,000+ posts]

Using MDF rings between doors and new speakers?? If not get some its a most really. 1/4" will even do and are dirt cheap and make a world of difference. Distortion at all lvls hmm I mean it sounding mehh and not as good as factory I expected cause aftermarket speakers are not always as sensitive as OEM speakers "which are manf to work on single digit wattage" . Most aftermarket speakers require good power to sound good or even as good as factory. I mean 10watts just aint enough power. Maybe your clipping the speakers thus the distortion? I would bet even a cheap 2 channel would make them shine. Wire each set down to a 2ohm load per channel and see what happens. Solid 50+watts per would wake them up in every way. The problem is the HU has no real power it just doesn't. 2 channels can be had cheap and install equipment can be really cheap. Night and Day... Also, dead the doors even if u do stay with 6watts rms. Check HPF like said above may be trying to feed them kickers some low freq 20-70hz range and they are not happy.

 

[Kai Winters 10+ year member]

You need to be much more descriptive instead of saying "distortion".

The speakers are inexpensive and the description of their qualities is rather lacking. Stating RMS power doesn't say much. I'd rather know minimum power, signal to noise ratio, etc.

The head unit is suspect...it offers a lot for a very low price, even at the regular price...tells me that the quality is very low.

But that doesn't mean you won't have reasonably decent sound...up to a certain volume level after which you are going to get more noise...distortion...than "quality" sound.

Does it sound ok at lower volume levels? When does the distortion kick in? What are your settings like?

I'd put the settings at flat...and listen at reasonable levels. If the quality of sound drops at high volumes it could be either the unit or speakers that are failing. You could add an amp, that is always the proper way to get "louder" with quality and clarity.

Buying cheap gear generally results in poor sound especially at higher volumes...nothing will cure bad sound except better quality gear.

 

[E_Scapegoat]

When I fade the headunit all the way to the front/back the quality improves, although it is still lacking.

That tells me the main issue is lack of power.. Is there a way to retain/continue to use the power from the head unit in conjunction with a new amp? I would hate to waste energy production capacity.

Or would that just be more trouble than it's worth and I should just cut my losses and purchase a 400RMS amp?

 

[dacheatham 10+ year member]

You could continue to use the HU for your rear speakers and amp the front. Most people prefer lower power on their "rear-fill". As mentioned above, do all you can to ensure a proper installation on the speakers and add a small amp to the front. Doing this along with proper tuning will make a world of difference.

 

[dacheatham 10+ year member]

When I fade the headunit all the way to the front/back the quality improves, although it is still lacking.
That tells me the main issue is lack of power.. Is there a way to retain/continue to use the power from the head unit in conjunction with a new amp? I would hate to waste energy production capacity.

Or would that just be more trouble than it's worth and I should just cut my losses and purchase a 400RMS amp?

If you are asking if you could use the HU and an external amp to power the same speakers the answer is no.

 

[E_Scapegoat]

You could continue to use the HU for your rear speakers and amp the front. Most people prefer lower power on their "rear-fill". As mentioned above, do all you can to ensure a proper installation on the speakers and add a small amp to the front. Doing this along with proper tuning will make a world of difference.

Thank you, susinctly put!

Is there a sticky on getting a "proper tune"? I am new to car audio lingo.

But if I understand correctly, I should buy "MDF rings" for each speaker, and buy/install an HPF to narrow the range sent to the 4 speakers to insure that they don't receive frequencies that should only be handled by proper subwoofers?

Which would be step 1. Step two would be getting an amp for the front speakers, and possibly for all.

Am I missing something/is there a thread I should consult?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Thank you, susinctly put!
Is there a sticky on getting a "proper tune"? I am new to car audio lingo.

But if I understand correctly, I should buy "MDF rings" for each speaker, and buy/install an HPF to narrow the range sent to the 4 speakers to insure that they don't receive frequencies that should only be handled by proper subwoofers?

Which would be step 1. Step two would be getting an amp for the front speakers, and possibly for all.

Am I missing something/is there a thread I should consult?

If that head unit does not have a high pass filter, i'd suggest you getting a different head unit altogether, try with an alpine 153bt for a proper head unit within a decent budget. If you want double din touchscreen, pioneer avh2700bs would be the best choice, anything cheaper than that is pretty junky. Head units are like the brains of an audio system. If you got a half brain'd monkey controlling all the sound...... well its not going to go well.

 

[Bacovish]

you don't have to break the bank for a good sounding stereo. The problem is its addictive and you always want more and better. Your good on the speakers.. You can find a good 4 channel amp for what you want to do at a low price. Your coponents should have passive crossovers and most amps also have filters. Fwiw. I put my system in last month..Amp... coponents..etc. I really had to put the juice to my coponents to get any sound out of them and i knew it just didn't sound right. I sound deadon my doors this past weekend and it was a huge improvement. Huge. I'm using about 40% less power and getting clear good sounding music. I think you are having the same problem I was. Your pushing your HU hard to hear your speakers. Your HU does not have enough juice while you are loosing all your sounds through your doors. If I were you I would first buy a amp. Second...Sound deaden the doors. Set the crossover on your amp at 80(80 is a good starting point) my sweet spot is 70 on my system. I do agree with the above posters that you would be good to buy a new HU but I would make the other 2 adjustments first. Eventually you'll have to do them anyway.