Regarding batteries (AGM)

zorphon
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Hey all.

Having a light flicker problem on my daily use car with only a few hundred watts RMS, would a new battery solve my problems?

I've got a stock alt and a battery I got at an autoparts store about a year ago.

I was looking at something like a SHURiKEN SK-BT20 (SKBT20) 850 Amp 12 Volt AGM Power Cell Battery seeing as I only have a 424 watts RMS system (with headunit on speakers).

Can I use that battery as my car's primary battery/starting battery and replace my generic autoparts store one?

Would it help the dimming?

Also would I need to buy terminals or anything for it or would it come with all of that. I simply am hooking up one amp to it and anything else that entails a primary car battery.

Second question: How do you charge an AGM battery? I have an old charger for conventional batteries but I heard you aren't supposed to use something like that on AGM batteries. I don't want to pay $100 for a charger, but what do I do if my battery is fully discharged for whatever reason? And should I need to charge that battery regularly or should my alternator keep it up to snuff with my 424watts RMS system ?

Thanks in advance.

 
is your gain set right? bass boost off?
Well the old stuff is out of the car now. Sorry should have been a bit more clear. My new system is going to take 424w RMS and my old one only took ~300w RMS but it dimmed on my old one, so I have no doubt my new one will too. Will using a battery such as the one I linked above solve the dimming issue?

 
is your gain set right? bass boost off?
Well the old stuff is out of the car now. Sorry should have been a bit more clear. My new system is going to take 424w RMS and my old one only took ~300w RMS but it dimmed on my old one, so I have no doubt my new one will too. Will using a battery such as the one I linked above solve the dimming issue?

 
what ever you do don't charge it with a normal charger, it will be the end of it! I did that once years ago but thankfully the warranty optima offers covered it for free. and as far as charging goes I was doing it for fun I have never HAD to charge on the reserve will always start the car, at least it has for me after hours of the stereo playing and the head lights on highbeams for a couple hours and the engine off, still starts right up. As far as dimming it could be the gains like dctc said just a weak wetcell battery, a poor ground, just start with a new battery.

 
what ever you do don't charge it with a normal charger, it will be the end of it! I did that once years ago but thankfully the warranty optima offers covered it for free. and as far as charging goes I was doing it for fun I have never HAD to charge on the reserve will always start the car, at least it has for me after hours of the stereo playing and the head lights on highbeams for a couple hours and the engine off, still starts right up. As far as dimming it could be the gains like dctc said just a weak wetcell battery, a poor ground, just start with a new battery.
Will that one I linked suffice for a 400w RMS system + starting battery?

 
are you talking about adding a second battery? i dont think thats necessary for anything under 1000 watts.... do the big three upgrade before anything...

 
[quote name='zorphon']For an under 500w RMS system would this wire work fine for big 3 Knukonceptz product detail for And would 5-10 feet of it work?

@212s
@DCtC[/QUOTE]

that link isnt showing any products. you should go ahead and measure the distance for your entire big three to plan. i would recommend going with 1/0 guage incase you decide to upgrade later. you can find some for pretty cheap in the classifieds on here. and i would say 10 foot would be plenty to work with if you dont want to measure. where is your alternator located? same side as the battery? bottom or top of engine?
 
that link isnt showing any products. you should go ahead and measure the distance for your entire big three to plan. i would recommend going with 1/0 guage incase you decide to upgrade later. you can find some for pretty cheap in the classifieds on here. and i would say 10 foot would be plenty to work with if you dont want to measure. where is your alternator located? same side as the battery? bottom or top of engine?
Alt is kind of tucked below and behind engine, opposite side of car from batt. Sorry for link, here's a fixed one(). If I went with 1/0 gauge, would this be fine? ()

I noticed my alt positive is like under a little plastic cap thing that's really hard to get into.

 
that link isnt showing any products. you should go ahead and measure the distance for your entire big three to plan. i would recommend going with 1/0 guage incase you decide to upgrade later. you can find some for pretty cheap in the classifieds on here. and i would say 10 foot would be plenty to work with if you dont want to measure. where is your alternator located? same side as the battery? bottom or top of engine?
Alt is kind of tucked below and behind engine, opposite side of car from batt. Sorry for link, here's a fixed one(http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KFX4BL). If I went with 1/0 gauge, would this be fine? (http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KFX0BL)

I noticed my alt positive is like under a little plastic cap thing that's really hard to get into.

 
yea that is fine. 10 ft should be ok but i would measure just to be safe. use a piece of string and run it the way you would run your positive to the alt. i would check the classifieds page you can probably find 1/0 cheaper than that

 
Alts tend to be hard to get at in a lot of imports. Do the other two wires 1st, see if it helps and maybe you can put it off for awhile, but you should do it at some point. A battery like the one you posted and the Big 3 will take care of your issues, afterall it's only a couple hundred watts your looking at. I used to run 2000 watts off a stock alt and an Optima battery, AFTER I did the Big 3.

 
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