Reasons to have my sealed box custom built

[pro-rabbit 5,000+ posts]

Just give me your personal preference on this.
I have a subaru wrx, no trunk, the whole car is the cabin. I want noticeable bass that that sounds musical, but isn't quiet either. Basically I want a tight bass over a booming bass, but I want it to be able to stand out a lot in bass heavy songs.

Would you go the route that I'm going with just 1 500 watt sub in a sealed box, or wait until I can afford a 2nd sub and get 2, or do something else?

That all would be subjective to you and all though we can all answer that, it is still all dependent on what you want.

However, typically I suggest to my customers to go a little bigger then you think you will need/want. You can always adjust the level of bass down in a variety of ways. However, you can not increase what you can get past the maximum performance level of what you purchase.

 

[ckunke002 10+ year member]

Okay I see. My issue is that I would like to get a 2nd sub, but I don't have the money to upgrade my electrical system and that's exactly what I would need to do if I got another.

I have 1 300 watt amp running right now, and was going to get this sub powered with 500 watts from my new amp running 800 total. From my research it seems that 800 is doable on stock electrical (I would rarely play with too high of power) but 1300 would be over my battery/alternators limits.

 

---------- Post added at 10:25 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:24 AM ----------

 

^^ That was in response to an earlier post, thanks for the feedback though DC

 

[destined2race 10+ year member]

1. If its easily available to you, just grab a prefab around 1cu.

2. Go to a hardware store and grab liquid Nails and put a nice bead where all the boards meet (corners).

3. Grab some polyfill and stuff some in there and test it out. Add more or less as needed for the sound you like.

DC was probably meaing they came back for a bigger ported box. I run my eclipse ported and my w7 ported and they both sound very good imo. Sealed does have the rep for being better on SQ (and maybe true in alot of sub apps) but ported can sound very good if done correctly.

 

[Robert 2001 10+ year member]

The poly fill def works in smaller boxes I had 2 cvrs 10s .6cuft each and polyfill made a huge difference in the low notes. Definately reseal the box if u buy prefab. Hd and wallmart both sell the caulk. I used a self leveling roofing sealant for mine but I dont reccomemd unless you can air your ride out for a day or 2 for the smell.

 

[ckunke002 10+ year member]

1. If its easily available to you, just grab a prefab around 1cu. 2. Go to a hardware store and grab liquid Nails and put a nice bead where all the boards meet (corners).

3. Grab some polyfill and stuff some in there and test it out. Add more or less as needed for the sound you like.

DC was probably meaing they came back for a bigger ported box. I run my eclipse ported and my w7 ported and they both sound very good imo. Sealed does have the rep for being better on SQ (and maybe true in alot of sub apps) but ported can sound very good if done correctly.

This is what I'm sorta torn between at the moment, sealed vs. ported. Both definitely have their perks and drawbacks, the major drawback of ported being I would be spending around 200 for a custom built box.

It's a bit easier for me to turn down a second sub because of all the extra investments that come with it that I cannot afford hahaha

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

Okay I see. My issue is that I would like to get a 2nd sub, but I don't have the money to upgrade my electrical system and that's exactly what I would need to do if I got another.
I have 1 300 watt amp running right now, and was going to get this sub powered with 500 watts from my new amp running 800 total. From my research it seems that 800 is doable on stock electrical (I would rarely play with too high of power) but 1300 would be over my battery/alternators limits.

 

---------- Post added at 10:25 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:24 AM ----------

 

^^ That was in response to an earlier post, thanks for the feedback though DC

with around 800-1000wrms you could probably do just fine with just the big 3. I ran about 1200rms total (800subs, 400 mids n highs) on bone stock electrical at one time with no issues. (stock 100a alt). even though my subs were at 2ohms final at the time which is easier on the electrical than 1ohm.

 

[ckunke002 10+ year member]

with around 800-1000wrms you could probably do just fine with just the big 3. I ran about 1200rms total (800subs, 400 mids n highs) on bone stock electrical at one time with no issues. (stock 100a alt). even though my subs were at 2ohms final at the time which is easier on the electrical than 1ohm.

I am going to be at 2 ohms as well. Dual 4 ohm coils hooked up to a 500 watt 2 ohm load.

But if I were to get a 2nd sub that probably wouldn't be the case hahah

 

[ckunke002 10+ year member]

On a side note, once I get the sub and amp, how can I find the amount of gain that I can safely have the amp powering at? On my last setup I believe I was always underpowering my sub in fear of overpowering it and blowing it lol. Is there a quick and easy way to finding the amount to have it set?

 

[IonRL205 10+ year member]

On a side note, once I get the sub and amp, how can I find the amount of gain that I can safely have the amp powering at? On my last setup I believe I was always underpowering my sub in fear of overpowering it and blowing it lol. Is there a quick and easy way to finding the amount to have it set?

You can use a DMM

Take the RMS of the amp x the ohm load you want to run it at. Take the square root of this number (ex. 1500w @ 1 ohm = 1500 x 1 = 1500. Sq rt of this 1500 = ~38.6

Unplug your speaker wires from your amp, turn the gain on the amp down, LPF to about 80, SSF to 25, make sure the eq settings on your deck are set to flat. Put in a 0 db 50 hz test tone and put the volume on your deck the loudest you would play it (and before it clips). Turn your DMM to AC volts and adjust the gain until the DMM reads the number you got from square rooting, in my example would be 38.6. Back the gain off just a hair and you'll be good to go.

 

[pickup1 5,000+ posts]

Home depot or wal-mart.

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

Put that G3 in a ported box! All Boston subs really wake up in ported boxes. I was amazed at the difference between sealed and ported for my G5s.

 

[ckunke002 10+ year member]

You can use a DMM
Take the RMS of the amp x the ohm load you want to run it at. Take the square root of this number (ex. 1500w @ 1 ohm = 1500 x 1 = 1500. Sq rt of this 1500 = ~38.6

Unplug your speaker wires from your amp, turn the gain on the amp down, LPF to about 80, SSF to 25, make sure the eq settings on your deck are set to flat. Put in a 0 db 50 hz test tone and put the volume on your deck the loudest you would play it (and before it clips). Turn your DMM to AC volts and adjust the gain until the DMM reads the number you got from square rooting, in my example would be 38.6. Back the gain off just a hair and you'll be good to go.

Wow, that is exactly what I was looking for hahah. Thanks a lot! Couple quick questions, are you referring to plugging the multi meter into the speaker wire terminals on the amp? And what is SSF?

 

[ckunke002 10+ year member]

Put that G3 in a ported box! All Boston subs really wake up in ported boxes. I was amazed at the difference between sealed and ported for my G5s.

Damnit... you're making this decision a lot harder! hahah I think a ported box COULD be the better choice, but to have my shop build me one for 150 more than a prefab one makes it a tough call.

What did your's sound like in a sealed?

 

[IonRL205 10+ year member]

Wow, that is exactly what I was looking for hahah. Thanks a lot! Couple quick questions, are you referring to plugging the multi meter into the speaker wire terminals on the amp? And what is SSF?

Yes, the positive rod into the positive terminal and negative rod into the negative terminal. And SSF is the subsonic filter.

 

[ckunke002 10+ year member]

Yes, the positive rod into the positive terminal and negative rod into the negative terminal. And SSF is the subsonic filter.

Okay cool. And what's a subsonic filter exactly? My last 2 amps didn't have that..