Rear speakers keekp blowing or cutting out.


sounds_explicit

Senior VIP Member
Mar 13, 2015
347
7
cleveland ohio
Ok so I installed 4 prv audio speakers. Added baffles to the rear deck only , for the purpose of keeping the spl away from the rear speakers. I blew the 2 prvs in the rear and decided to go with 4 hertz installed them and tuned them correctly yesterday. Today I drove a measily 30 minutes all 4 windows down and sunroof open, the rear speakers cut out and not the front once again.... turn off hu and got home ohmed everything out and they still said 2 ohms in the front and 2 ohms in the rear.. bridged on a 4 channel rockford 600.4 amp. turned on the hu and the rears worked again... I dont want to blow these....wtf is happening ? Do you guys think that the baffles I added to the rear are making them to hot? And not enough air flow to them? Causing them to cut out? I switched the front wires for the front speakers to the rear input on amp to verify the channels weren't blown and they work as required..Getting irritated as I been dealing with this issue since I installed new tear deck speakers with baffles.. should I remove the baffles? What are your thought on that issue?
 

Lasherž

CarAudio.com Veteran
Apr 27, 2020
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Ok so I installed 4 prv audio speakers. Added baffles to the rear deck only , for the purpose of keeping the spl away from the rear speakers. I blew the 2 prvs in the rear and decided to go with 4 hertz installed them and tuned them correctly yesterday. Today I drove a measily 30 minutes all 4 windows down and sunroof open, the rear speakers cut out and not the front once again.... turn off hu and got home ohmed everything out and they still said 2 ohms in the front and 2 ohms in the rear.. bridged on a 4 channel rockford 600.4 amp. turned on the hu and the rears worked again... I dont want to blow these....wtf is happening ? Do you guys think that the baffles I added to the rear are making them to hot? And not enough air flow to them? Causing them to cut out? I switched the front wires for the front speakers to the rear input on amp to verify the channels weren't blown and they work as required..Getting irritated as I been dealing with this issue since I installed new tear deck speakers with baffles.. should I remove the baffles? What are your thought on that issue?
You shouldn't be bridging those I wouldn't think. It should be one per channel on a 4 channel amp @ 4 ohms each. If you bridge you're paralleling the two channels effectively making it 2 ohms 300 watts for 2 speakers. What are the speakers and the specific amplifier?
 
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sounds_explicit

sounds_explicit

Senior VIP Member
Mar 13, 2015
347
7
cleveland ohio
Hertz energy ecx 165.5 2 way coaxial
Rockford power 600.4


:edited above . Shoukd I throw the amps channel to lp hp OR ap
 
Last edited:

Lasherž

CarAudio.com Veteran
Apr 27, 2020
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United States
Hertz energy ecx 6.5
Rockford power 600.4
Are you overdriving those speakers? They're rated for 70W so you'll need to use the multimeter to set it up using ohm's law and a 0db tone. Disconnect the speaker and measure the AC voltage coming from the terminals, how high is it?

rmschartpm5-1.jpg


Do one channel at a time, it should be under 17V peak. 17V is approximately 72W.


Use the tones on that page, whichever tone generates the highest voltage at the highest listening volume you use is the tone you go with, just make sure it's 0db.
 
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sounds_explicit

sounds_explicit

Senior VIP Member
Mar 13, 2015
347
7
cleveland ohio
Sorry I messed up with the speakers.

They are hertz energy ecx 165.5 2 way coaxial rated for 210 watts running off rockford power 600.4. So I dont think I'm over powering them. Just tried my multimeter and I must have left it on and it killed the batteries lol. So I'll have to go get new ones tomorrow as I dont have spare ones atm
. I'll attach a pic of the amp and how its setup
 

Lasherž

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Apr 27, 2020
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United States
Sorry I messed up with the speakers.

They are hertz energy ecx 165.5 2 way coaxial rated for 210 watts running off rockford power 600.4. So I dont think I'm over powering them. Just tried my multimeter and I must have left it on and it killed the batteries lol. So I'll have to go get new ones tomorrow as I dont have spare ones atm
. I'll attach a pic of the amp and how its setup
You linked the right speakers, read the page again. https://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/car-audio-coaxial-energy-ecx165_5/

Continuous power is 70W. Peak power is more of a marketing thing, but with Hertz speakers it's what it can handle briefly, not full time. You need to get those things lowered down to something more reasonable. They can be run a little bit above RMS rating, maybe like 10% full time but not 300%.

I think the issue is that you're going by the wrong numbers, peak or max is meaningless on speakers for setting them up. It's completely different between brands and on cheap brands it means literally nothing. Continous or RMS voltage is what you want to go by. It's not that big of a mismatch though, it'll still sound good and the amp will still perform pretty well at 70% power if you do 4x4ohm. Hertz is a great brand that can put up with a little abuse on top, just not crazy amounts.
 
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sounds_explicit

sounds_explicit

Senior VIP Member
Mar 13, 2015
347
7
cleveland ohio
Hmm ok. Maybe the issue is that they are bridged then getting way too much watts. I'll see if I can find a set of spare batteries in the house. This store literally said they would be perfect to run bridged at 2 ohms on 2 channels.. hitting about 150ish watts roughly so I set it up that way and bridged them and tuned it. Must the the issue then. Ughhhh
 

Lasherž

CarAudio.com Veteran
Apr 27, 2020
824
183
United States
Hmm ok. Maybe the issue is that they are bridged then getting way too much watts. I'll see if I can find a set of spare batteries in the house. This store literally said they would be perfect to run bridged at 2 ohms on 2 channels.. hitting about 150ish watts roughly so I set it up that way and bridged them and tuned it. Must the the issue then. Ughhhh
Yeah, bridged full power means they'll be at 150 a piece, which is over twice their rating. It's asking for trouble, but they're obviously pretty good speakers to put up with it lol. Hopefully no damage was done but when you get the chance do the whole multimeter setup again. You can leave them bridged if you want, so long as it's metered down to about 24.5V peak with various 0db sine wave frequencies.

If you end up going with 4 channels, one to each speaker then it'll instead be 17.4V ish
 
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sounds_explicit

sounds_explicit

Senior VIP Member
Mar 13, 2015
347
7
cleveland ohio
Yeah, bridged full power means they'll be at 150 a piece, which is over twice their rating. It's asking for trouble, but they're obviously pretty good speakers to put up with it lol. Hopefully no damage was done but when you get the chance do the whole multimeter setup again. You can leave them bridged if you want, so long as it's metered down to about 24.5V peak with various 0db sine wave frequencies.

If you end up going with 4 channels, one to each speaker then it'll instead be 17.4V ish
Got it all figured out just had a little too much voltage going to the speakers . They sound a lot better now and they dont cut out after 3o min of playing time. My head unit is set at to 50 out of 63. And my voltages are now correct. Now I just need to exchange this 3k rms amp because my subs are asking for more power :/. Looking to get a 5k now instead of a 3k.
 
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Lasherž

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Apr 27, 2020
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Got it all figured out just had a little too much voltage going to the speakers . They sound a lot better now and they dont cut out after 3o min of playing time. My head unit is set at to 50 out of 63. And my voltages are now correct. Now I just need to exchange this 3k rms amp because my subs are asking for more power :/. Looking to get a 5k now instead of a 3k.
3k is a quite a bit of rms wattage. Have you confirmed that your amp is near the clipping point? If it is then I'd say you probably want to focus on your enclosure before you worry about your amp at this point. Maybe it's a difference in preference, I like bass a lot but I'd call 3k in a ported enclosure quite loud except for the very low end. You can use that same chart I linked earlier, go to 50 volume, disconnect the subwoofers and play a variety of tones from super low to 100hz, whichever is the highest adjust the gain until that tone reaches the voltage that corresponds to 3k and your impedance configuration.
 
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sounds_explicit

sounds_explicit

Senior VIP Member
Mar 13, 2015
347
7
cleveland ohio
3k is a quite a bit of rms wattage. Have you confirmed that your amp is near the clipping point? If it is then I'd say you probably want to focus on your enclosure before you worry about your amp at this point. Maybe it's a difference in preference, I like bass a lot but I'd call 3k in a ported enclosure quite loud except for the very low end. You can use that same chart I linked earlier, go to 50 volume, disconnect the subwoofers and play a variety of tones from super low to 100hz, whichever is the highest adjust the gain until that tone reaches the voltage that corresponds to 3k and your impedance configuration.
I have the electrical to back it up. But with box rise my subs are asking for more imo.. I'm running a. brand x 350 amp alt. With voltage regulator holding 14.8 volts constantly unless heavy bass hits. I have a plat agm under the hood with a northstar agm 31 pro with 6 spot terminals on it in the trunk. All ofc wiring. I have the sub level set at 80 hz flat on every eq setting and tuned the amp to about 56 or so volts on a 40 hz sine wave. Clipping light doesnt come on untill I turn volume to about 52 and set the sub level at -4, it goes from-24 to +6. My box is about 6 cubes without displacement tuned to 33 htz. Reason I'm thinking about going higher rms than 3k is because these subs are barely getting tickled 2 american bass xr 12's at 1 ohm. I want to compensate for box rise with a higher wattage amp that way I dont have to turn my amp up to achieve the 3k watts. I like some overhead and I know these subs can take s little more than what I'm giving them. If that makes sense?
 
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Lasherž

CarAudio.com Veteran
Apr 27, 2020
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183
United States
I have the electrical to back it up. But with box rise my subs are asking for more imo.. I'm running a. brand x 350 amp alt. With voltage regulator holding 14.8 volts constantly unless heavy bass hits. I have a plat agm under the hood with a northstar agm 31 pro with 6 spot terminals on it in the trunk. All ofc wiring. I have the sub level set at 80 hz flat on every eq setting and tuned the amp to about 56 or so volts on a 40 hz sine wave. Clipping light doesnt come on untill I turn volume to about 52 and set the sub level at -4, it goes from-24 to +6. My box is about 6 cubes without displacement tuned to 33 htz. Reason I'm thinking about going higher rms than 3k is because these subs are barely getting tickled 2 american bass xr 12's at 1 ohm. I want to compensate for box rise with a higher wattage amp that way I dont have to turn my amp up to achieve the 3k watts. I like some overhead and I know these subs can take s little more than what I'm giving them. If that makes sense?
Makes sense, I thought it was a low volume thing.
 

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