Re-tuning a box with slot port *pic*

[Xprime4 10+ year member]

jesus man just re do the box bro! no money? just go fuck sum fat chix for sum $$!
re do the box with the 8" sonotube with the length at ~9.5" or so for a 35hz tuning

make sure that the tube has at least 8" behind the end of the port though bro!!

I'm just tired of buiding boxes... i've just build one for a car that i sold 1month later, now i did this one a month ago and... 100$ worth of stuff each time... that's enough !!!

I'll probably be switching sub again in few months anyway //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

8 inch of clearance? that's gonna be difficult. Is it really THAT important?

 

[Xprime4 10+ year member]

lil bump for tonight. Is it worth it to try my new design or not, if i can only get like 4 inch of clearance outside of the port

 

[mbrooky 10+ year member]

Yeah the box is on the low side, but the last one i had was too , yet still sounding a lot better to me... Like i said, box is 7.2 after sub displacement. The port atm 17height 6.75 wide.

From my calculs, that gives 114.75 then divide by 7.3 ( or is it after port displacement???) = on the 16ish per ft/cu... my last one was more like 12-13 , yet sounding a lot sharp and better transitient response on fast kick bass

also the idea of trowing mdf in it... how do i do that? cut smaller and silicone ? i'm not sure this would be easy

well if it's 7.2 cuft before port displacement then with port displacement @ 37hz that only gives you roughly 5 cuft for both subs to share.....you could always build a square port like this....(i'm in the same dilemma sorta...probably gonna go 8" sonotube or square port like pictured cuz the slot port takes up too much volume)

 

[mbrooky 10+ year member]

oops here's the pic i was talkin about....

 

[spl_robb 10+ year member]

you can use mbrooky idea, and do a removable port like i did.(sub up-port back) that way you dont need to re do a box. just play with dif. port lenghts and diameters.just try to do long port so you can cut to yor fs needs.

 

[Xprime4 10+ year member]

So i did some mods to my box yesturday and had few listening hours already.

Sub up , 8inch sonotube up... around 6 inch of clearance before the window.

Result: -On some songs, the bass def hit harder than with the port on rear side.

-Tuned around 37hz killed some lowest line (34hz before), but the upper roll

seems higher. Still some hard flexing lows. I guess its from getting some more

airspace. The 8inch sono take very little compared to the port i had (i destroyed it

with an hammer and sealed the port hole.

And finaly, i'm getting some port noise on some tracks i didn't before (white girl).. a little annoying. I put the ssf from 15hz to low 20ish and it help a little

Definitively more rearview mirror movement now too...

So i think the operation went well. On a bad note, I destroyed most of the bracing by destroying the port. The box is flexing a little, but no air leak.Sounding better to me.

Any bracing i could add one the box is sealed? And i'm looking at 10inch sono... but i don't want the bass to be too boomy

 

[Xprime4 10+ year member]

you can use mbrooky idea, and do a removable port like i did.(sub up-port back) that way you dont need to re do a box. just play with dif. port lenghts and diameters.just try to do long port so you can cut to yor fs needs.

Great. Aeros are great for that too. If i'm not fully satisfied with the tuning. just put another lenght or cut and you got a new box //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

That box already went through 3 operations and still alive

 

[spl_robb 10+ year member]

So i did some mods to my box yesturday and had few listening hours already.
Sub up , 8inch sonotube up... around 6 inch of clearance before the window.

Result: -On some songs, the bass def hit harder than with the port on rear side.

-Tuned around 37hz killed some lowest line (34hz before), but the upper roll

seems higher. Still some hard flexing lows. I guess its from getting some more

airspace. The 8inch sono take very little compared to the port i had (i destroyed it

with an hammer and sealed the port hole.

And finaly, i'm getting some port noise on some tracks i didn't before (white girl).. a little annoying. I put the ssf from 15hz to low 20ish and it help a little

Definitively more rearview mirror movement now too...

So i think the operation went well. On a bad note, I destroyed most of the bracing by destroying the port. The box is flexing a little, but no air leak.Sounding better to me.

Any bracing i could add one the box is sealed? And i'm looking at 10inch sono... but i don't want the bass to be too boomy

any pictures on the new box??

 

[Xprime4 10+ year member]

any pictures on the new box??

Got a video of it . It's not pretty btw... still need some more painting job on the port area.

http://s371.photobucket.com/albums/oo152/xprime4/?action=view&current=HPIM2530.flv

The total lack of bracing ain't great. Anything i could add now to make the box more solid?

 

[Lakota 5,000+ posts]

Aero port.

 

[Xprime4 10+ year member]

Aero port.

yeah that's what it is, now...

 

[Lakota 5,000+ posts]

Needs "flare."

 

[Xprime4 10+ year member]

Needs "flare."

how would you flare a sonotube?

 

[krainium 10+ year member]

You could add threaded rod or wooden dowels to the inside to stiffen it up. To add flare to the sano tube you have to make a piece of mdf that is flared then add it to the end of the sano tube.

 

[Xprime4 10+ year member]

You could add threaded rod or wooden dowels to the inside to stiffen it up. To add flare to the sano tube you have to make a piece of mdf that is flared then add it to the end of the sano tube.

Getting the bracing inside, once the box has every side on ain't easy... i have no skill and no equipment beside a jigsaw... any pics or dyi of the process of turning a sono into a flare sono