price for deading

well so far i have 2 12's l7's loking for an amp prob gonna go with the 1500.1 kicker

for comps i havent made my mind up for the money i guess pg's but i like polk momo's,cdts, and rainbows, and boston pro 60's so i am not sure

and just looking for something for rear fill i like it

to power the doors i am looking for a 650.4 kicker

the subs will be ported around 33hz and have around 2.6-2.75net per sub

 
Avoid FatMat, you'll do much better with a butyl mat like RAAMmat or Second Skin. Aluminum flashing from the Home Depot roofing department is the easiest way to close the access holes. $10 buys a roll with more than you need. It's fairly easy to bend and you can cut it with heavy scissors. Double up for extra strength. A few self tapping screws and and some silicone adhesive and you are good to go. Make sure the silicone cures before you apply deadener anywhere around it - kills the adhesive otherwise.
And definitely yes, do it yourself.
Whats wrong with fatmat? I have heard nothing but good things about them. Just might have to double up on it in the critical areas. Plus it is cheaper and like I said I got free shipping.

 
Whats wrong with fatmat? I have heard nothing but good things about them. Just might have to double up on it in the critical areas. Plus it is cheaper and like I said I got free shipping.
Any good things you heard were in the past couple of months after they went out of business and the name was bought by a roofing supplier in Ohio. Prior to that, it was just Peel & Seal with a logo stenciled on it, sold by people who took a month or more to ship it, if they shipped it at all.

The new guy has dramatically improved shipping times, but it is still Peel & Seal with a logo stenciled on it. You can buy Peel & Seal directly from Lowes or a roofing supply place and pay less for it.

Unfortunately, even if you got it for cheaper, you still wouldn't want to put it in a car. It is asphalt. Asphalt is a very poor vibration damper. More than that, it has a very high failure rate. It either falls off, or if you are unlikely, melts, leaving you a car full of melted tar. To add insult to injury - literally, I guess, it outgasses toxic VOCs. That's the stink people complain of. This stuff was meant to be used on the outside of buildings and mobile homes.

You will always do better to spend the same amount of money on a butyl adhesive/aluminum foil faced deadener and spread it out. $100 worth will do a better job than $100 worth of FatMat or other asphalt mat with none of the downside risk.

Price per square foot is meaningless for sound deadeners. You need butyl, aluminum foil and price per unit of mass is much more important. Sorry.

 
well so far i have 2 12's l7's loking for an amp prob gonna go with the 1500.1 kicker
for comps i havent made my mind up for the money i guess pg's but i like polk momo's,cdts, and rainbows, and boston pro 60's so i am not sure

and just looking for something for rear fill i like it

to power the doors i am looking for a 650.4 kicker

the subs will be ported around 33hz and have around 2.6-2.75net per sub
any suggestions on the comps and rear fill

 
Any good things you heard were in the past couple of months after they went out of business and the name was bought by a roofing supplier in Ohio. Prior to that, it was just Peel & Seal with a logo stenciled on it, sold by people who took a month or more to ship it, if they shipped it at all.
The new guy has dramatically improved shipping times, but it is still Peel & Seal with a logo stenciled on it. You can buy Peel & Seal directly from Lowes or a roofing supply place and pay less for it.

Unfortunately, even if you got it for cheaper, you still wouldn't want to put it in a car. It is asphalt. Asphalt is a very poor vibration damper. More than that, it has a very high failure rate. It either falls off, or if you are unlikely, melts, leaving you a car full of melted tar. To add insult to injury - literally, I guess, it outgasses toxic VOCs. That's the stink people complain of. This stuff was meant to be used on the outside of buildings and mobile homes.

You will always do better to spend the same amount of money on a butyl adhesive/aluminum foil faced deadener and spread it out. $100 worth will do a better job than $100 worth of FatMat or other asphalt mat with none of the downside risk.

Price per square foot is meaningless for sound deadeners. You need butyl, aluminum foil and price per unit of mass is much more important. Sorry.
Well that sucks to hear! I guess I shouldn't use it then? I don't say it is asphalt anywhere on their site. It says rubber compound. Is that what they are speaking of? I guess I just will have to take it one section at a time to see if I like it. Also had it out of the box and everything in my room and there is no smell at all. Maybe it is only when you lay it out?

Shit this is bad news! I thought I got a good deal and all too. Pfft, I guess I should have just spent the extra dought. Should it still suffice over not using it or just a waste of time?

I did get the stuff with in the next day with free shipping. Maybe they did something else to make the product better? Oh well, shit happens.

 
Suggestions for deadener. First, listen to anything that Rudy has to say on the topic. He knows his stuff.

The favorite choices around here are either secondskin damp pro or Rammat BXT. They both will do the job just fine. SS seems to be a little better, but also costs a little more. How much better is arguable.

 
I really think that your best bet is to just do a little reading in the speaker section. You can get a wider variety of reviews that way. Speakers that are often recomended in that general rice range include, Pioneer Premiers, (a little more than 200) PG RSD's (under 100), Rainbow SLC's ( a little more than 200). You could search those terms and probably come up with some threads discussing speakers in that range.

 
is it necessary to deaden roof and floor considering how much hassle the floor would be and how hard is it to do the roof
I think it really depends on the vehicle. I am going to be doing the floors soon because I am getting a lot of noise from there and I am confident that it will be worth the cost/effort.

I am not going to be doing the roof because it looks like a PITA and there has to be an end to this madness somewhere. I just think that it would provide the lowest return on the investment, and I think that most people within the hobby do not go that extra mile.

Maybe someone who has actually done the roof can chime in.

 
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