PPi900.4 rear channels (bridged) for sub quit working

[lsuandy12]

hello everyone. Im new to this site so ill just give everyone a brief summary of what I have going on. I recently just spent about $700 on a new sound system for my single cab tundra and did the install myself. I have installed very little car audio components in the past but Im fairly mechanically inclined so i made sure to do everything right. i bought a pioneer deh-x7500s head unit for 4v pre amps and a clarion eqs746 equalizer for easy adjusting and a clean look. i went with the PPI900.4 amp and polk audio dxi6501 components and flush mounted the tweeters into the pillar on the door/window jam. ive got one jbl ms-12sd2 12" sub mounted in a sealed box. ive got RCA cables running from channels 1/2 to the front input on my EQ and the other RCAs coming from channels 3/4 (bridged @ 4ohm) running to the sub input on my eq. all power/ground cables and remote wire runs down left side of my truck and RCAs and speaker wire run down the right side. I slowly broke in the system and speakers and after two months started cranking it up pretty loud and it sounded really nice and clean for one set of components and a 12. then all of the sudden one day coming home from work, ive been driving for about 15 minutes jamming prettty hard and everything shut off. i figured the amp kicked into protect to cool down, no biggie. sure enough, i turned everything down and let her rest. 3 minutes later i was back jamming and everything sounded great. then all the sudden it happened again. so i turned it down and let it rest. then i turn it back up and have NO sub. the components sound exactly the same as always, very clean and loud. But no sub. now the sub is rated at 450 RMS and 1000 peak. its a dual 2 sub and i have it wired parallel for a 4ohm load at the amp. the amp is rated at 450 RMS (bridged) @ 4 ohm. everything was matched up pretty well and sounded great. had the gains up a bit but nothing crazy. I could turn my volume up to 90% with zero clipping and great sound. I checked the fuses on the amp and they are fine. I guess next i need to check the sub to see if its blown (if someone could recommend a good relieable way to do this I would greatly appreciate it). If anyone else has any suggestions on what might could have happened, please let me know. I miss my sub! thanks so much for taking the time to read this post and ill be looking forward to hearing back from you. Thanks.

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[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

hello everyone. Im new to this site so ill just give everyone a brief summary of what I have going on. I recently just spent about $700 on a new sound system for my single cab tundra and did the install myself. I have installed very little car audio components in the past but Im fairly mechanically inclined so i made sure to do everything right. i bought a pioneer deh-x7500s head unit for 4v pre amps and a clarion eqs746 equalizer for easy adjusting and a clean look. i went with the PPI900.4 amp and polk audio dxi6501 components and flush mounted the tweeters into the pillar on the door/window jam. ive got one jbl ms-12sd2 12" sub mounted in a sealed box. ive got RCA cables running from channels 1/2 to the front input on my EQ and the other RCAs coming from channels 3/4 (bridged @ 4ohm) running to the sub input on my eq. all power/ground cables and remote wire runs down left side of my truck and RCAs and speaker wire run down the right side. I slowly broke in the system and speakers and after two months started cranking it up pretty loud and it sounded really nice and clean for one set of components and a 12. then all of the sudden one day coming home from work, ive been driving for about 15 minutes jamming prettty hard and everything shut off. i figured the amp kicked into protect to cool down, no biggie. sure enough, i turned everything down and let her rest. 3 minutes later i was back jamming and everything sounded great. then all the sudden it happened again. so i turned it down and let it rest. then i turn it back up and have NO sub. the components sound exactly the same as always, very clean and loud. But no sub. now the sub is rated at 450 RMS and 1000 peak. its a dual 2 sub and i have it wired parallel for a 4ohm load at the amp. the amp is rated at 450 RMS (bridged) @ 4 ohm. everything was matched up pretty well and sounded great. had the gains up a bit but nothing crazy. I could turn my volume up to 90% with zero clipping and great sound. I checked the fuses on the amp and they are fine. I guess next i need to check the sub to see if its blown (if someone could recommend a good relieable way to do this I would greatly appreciate it). If anyone else has any suggestions on what might could have happened, please let me know. I miss my sub! thanks so much for taking the time to read this post and ill be looking forward to hearing back from you. Thanks.

Theres your problem right there. dual 2 wired parallel = 1 ohm load. You either fried rear channels or fried the sub through clipping. Does the sub smell? push on the sub's cone to see if it still moves. Switch the front components to rear channel to see if the rear channels are still working.

 

[lsuandy12]

my bad. series. i just checked to make sure. sub doesnt smell at all. and i will switch the components over to the rear channels and see what happens

 

[lsuandy12]

i have a neg from one VC hooked to the Pos of the other VC. then the Pos and Neg that are left go to amp.

 

[lsuandy12]

the cone does move inward if i press it. and it feels tight. Could I hook an OHM meter to it??

 

[Boominburban]

can you feel it dragging at all. or does it sound "scratchy" when you push it in evenly?

Can't hurt to meter the coils either ..

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

the cone does move inward if i press it. and it feels tight. Could I hook an OHM meter to it??

If its hard to move and makes wierd noise, then its blown, yes hook up a mult-meter and test the coils. You might have went a little bit too HAM for a little bit too long lol

 

[lsuandy12]

Well I believe its blown by you guys two posts lol. Its hard to press in, does make a little noise, and definitely feels cratchy! Anyone want to recommend a new dub for my setup? Needs to be a dual 2 around 500-600rms I guess. That ppi amp is a little beast! I feel like I really took my time breaking in that sub

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

You need to find out why the sub blew. Just because it blew the sub don't make the amp a beast, a 50 watt amp could have blown it

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Well I believe its blown by you guys two posts lol. Its hard to press in, does make a little noise, and definitely feels cratchy! Anyone want to recommend a new dub for my setup? Needs to be a dual 2 around 500-600rms I guess. That ppi amp is a little beast! I feel like I really took my time breaking in that sub

to be honest, you actually blew out the sub from not having enough power. You forced the amp into clipping thats why the sub blew. Common newbie mistake is, buying an inadequate sub amp, not getting enough output because the amp simply does not make enough power, then starts to crank the amp, then results are blown subs. If you want to avoid this issue, you'll need a dedicated sub amp that provides lots of clean power for your next sub. Even if you get a 600 watt rms sub, you will still blow it and probably not even get as much output as you did with your old sub because you need more power to get beefier subs to put out desired output.

 

[Savackz]

I wouldn't doubt to follow these guys' advice. If you need a dual 2 sub that is around that AND upgrade later on, sundown SA as most everyone will say or I am going to go to a skar vvx.

 

[lsuandy12]

I definitely take you guys advise. If you feel it would be best to get a dedicated sub amp then that's what I'm going to do. The loudness of the one jbl 12 in the single cab was enough for what I wanted. Basically, you are saying I should get a sub around the same quality as the jbl if I was happy with it but also get a dedicated class d sub amp with sufficient power that way the amp won't have to work so hard? Would yall recommend a ppi for this? Somewhere around $300 & 600-800rms

 

[SounDrive Pro Seller]

I definitely take you guys advise. If you feel it would be best to get a dedicated sub amp then that's what I'm going to do. The loudness of the one jbl 12 in the single cab was enough for what I wanted. Basically, you are saying I should get a sub around the same quality as the jbl if I was happy with it but also get a dedicated class d sub amp with sufficient power that way the amp won't have to work so hard? Would yall recommend a ppi for this? Somewhere around $300 & 600-800rms

The PPI P1000.1 is a nice amp that would match the one you have. Just make sure to set gains correctly because you could easily blow a sub with it as well if you've got it turned up too much.