power acoustic amp issue

I've frequented many other forums. I admit I don't know everything, but I know my fair share about car audio from reading and research AND real world experience.
I dont know everything either bud.

but theres a reason i dont offer electrical advice where im not knowledgeable

and really in reality theres multiple people here telling you your not as knowledgeable as you think you are

you may want to take that for what it is and just continue reading up like I do

 
Ask any professional on this forum about my post on fuses and they will agree. A 60a fuse can handle approximately a 90a current in short to medium bursts without blowing. 60a is the amperage it will take indefinitely without blowing. Fuses do not blow the second you go one ampere over their rating.
Well

What voltage was the amp tested and rated at?

What are the quality of the internal components?

What is the quality of the fuse?

yes a fuse wont blow immediately but it should deffinately blow Quick....

theres alot of exceptionally cheap fuses out there that wont even blow at 200% their rating they just get red hot and start a fire.

these are all aspects that need to be taken into account that you simply overlook.

electronics are not as simple cut and dry as you think

there are many factors that need to be taken into account.

they do have laws that govern them but only when every aspect is taken into account.

not trying to rail on you

just trying to get you to think a bit more because ultimately people take your suggestions

and if you suugest something wrong it can result in someone loosing their system

I was once a noob doing the same **** and I had someone school me about that.

s

 
I dont know everything either bud.but theres a reason i dont offer electrical advice where im not knowledgeable

and really in reality theres multiple people here telling you your not as knowledgeable as you think you are

you may want to take that for what it is and just continue reading up like I do
I suppose someone who is beginning to study as an electrical and mechanical engineer doesn't know anything about electricity. But that's just my theory.

Like I said, I don't claim to know many of the more advanced topics, but I do know my fair share.

 
correct me if i'm wrong but thought a general rule of thumb was 100 rms for every 10 amp fuse (actual rms rating might differ based on the amp)

I've also seen some expensive higher efficiency amps dont even use fuses or require external fusing.

 
WellWhat voltage was the amp tested and rated at?

What are the quality of the internal components?

What is the quality of the fuse?

yes a fuse wont blow immediately but it should deffinately blow Quick....

theres alot of exceptionally cheap fuses out there that wont even blow at 200% their rating they just get red hot and start a fire.

these are all aspects that need to be taken into account that you simply overlook.

electronics are not as simple cut and dry as you think

there are many factors that need to be taken into account.

they do have laws that govern them but only when every aspect is taken into account.
Amps clamp at over their rated power

High quality components

Any fuse

 
correct me if i'm wrong but thought a general rule of thumb was 100 rms for every 10 amp fuse (actual rms rating might differ based on the amp) I've also seen some expensive higher efficiency amps dont even use fuses or require external fusing.
That's a general rule of thumb, but some amps are more efficient. Also, unless you like playing sine waves, you can get by with a smaller fuse as long as you're only playing music.

We've all seen over-fused cheap amps and efficient class D amps that don't follow this "rule of thumb"

 
I suppose someone who is beginning to study as an electrical and mechanical engineer doesn't know anything about electricity. But that's just my theory.
Like I said, I don't claim to know many of the more advanced topics, but I do know my fair share.
You said it not me

"beginning to learn"

 
You said it not me"beginning to learn"
Like I said, disprove my "fuses can take around 1.5x their rated amperage for short bursts" statement with facts and I'll admit I'm wrong. The problem is, the facts aren't there because its been proven time and time again.

 
No it's correct. You own the word idiot.
Don't try to call out someone else on their intelligence when you can't use the correct form of a word that your average third grader uses correctly. Anyway, I'm done here, there's no point in me stooping down to your level any more.

 
heads up man, it is not a 1500 watt amp it only has 2 25a fuses on it allowing a maximum of 50A of current draw. let's say your amp is 80% efficient and you have a stout electrical setup running a solid 14.4 volts with no drops. so amps x voltage = watts, than watts time efficiency give you a final number. 50 x 14.4 = 720 watts, but your amp and no ones amp is 100% efficient so real world efficiency might yield 80% so that puts your amp at 576 watts RMS @ 1Ω load. i'm giving you the facts that clearly you and others lack. I am not bashing you, just educating you on facts. not saying that Power Acoustik is a good or bad brand, they are just mislabeled on actual output. that 576 watts RMS that I gave you is being nice b/c your amp is more like 60-70% efficient and your car probably holds voltage around the 13.8-14.1 range and drops to the 12.6-13.2 range on bass notes.
I understand and appreciate this info, so how do mmats and zed achieve their wattage when they are fused lower than your equation? Honestly courious about this, like my saz1500v.3, 150a fusing but can do 2kish.
 
I understand and appreciate this info, so how do mmats and zed achieve their wattage when they are fused lower than your equation? Honestly courious about this, like my saz1500v.3, 150a fusing but can do 2kish.
it's all just math and the number they put at a particular rated voltage. the higher the voltage the higher the number their going to put. example Crossfire and MMATS put there rated numbers at 13.8 volts b/c most vehicles can actually hold that voltage especially the newer ones. other amps that are CEA compliant are rated at 14.4 volts which most newer vehicles don't hold. take your Sundown amp that has a 150A fuse rating that you are saying puts out 2000, look at the electrical of those that have "clamped" those numbers. those guys are holding a higher voltage to be able to show those numbers. also just because you "clamped" 2000 watts does not mean it's unclipped or undistorted power. that same amp can yield slightly more power than another amp with the same fuse rating b/c it's going to be more efficient than those. if you can hold a higher voltage you can get more power out of your amp. back when I first got into car audio in the early 90s, all amps claimed power was at 12v. example Soundstream Class A 5.0 was rated at 12.5 watts x 2 @ 4Ω @ 12v with a 40A fuse, this same amp at 14v bridged would put out ~500 watts at 1/2Ω.

 
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