power acoustic amp issue

tim45255

Junior Member
hello, I have a 1500 watt power acoustic and every time i turn it on it will go into protected mode if i take off the speaker wires from the output then take the fuses out and put them back in and turn it on it will not go into protected mode also it has a lot of engine noise in it i don't know what the problem is i have cut my power wire and made new contacts with all the wire i think maybe it coulod be a ground issue.

the model: Power Acoustik CPT2-1500

 
hello, I have a 1500 watt power acoustic and every time i turn it on it will go into protected mode if i take off the speaker wires from the output then take the fuses out and put them back in and turn it on it will not go into protected mode also it has a lot of engine noise in it i don't know what the problem is i have cut my power wire and made new contacts with all the wire i think maybe it coulod be a ground issue.
the model: Power Acoustik CPT2-1500
Check your grounds, also what ohm load do you have your subs wired to?

 
the amp is 1500 watts its a good brand amp and i have everything turned on low also thanks t2 i will check the ground cable
heads up man, it is not a 1500 watt amp it only has 2 25a fuses on it allowing a maximum of 50A of current draw. let's say your amp is 80% efficient and you have a stout electrical setup running a solid 14.4 volts with no drops. so amps x voltage = watts, than watts time efficiency give you a final number. 50 x 14.4 = 720 watts, but your amp and no ones amp is 100% efficient so real world efficiency might yield 80% so that puts your amp at 576 watts RMS @ 1Ω load. i'm giving you the facts that clearly you and others lack. I am not bashing you, just educating you on facts. not saying that Power Acoustik is a good or bad brand, they are just mislabeled on actual output. that 576 watts RMS that I gave you is being nice b/c your amp is more like 60-70% efficient and your car probably holds voltage around the 13.8-14.1 range and drops to the 12.6-13.2 range on bass notes.

 
first issue- power acoustic... but in all seriousness what subs are you running? how are they wired? if wired to too low of an ohm load then that could cause it to go into protect mode.. and the above are correct, that is a 1500 watt "max" amp. might be getting 500w rms out of in the best conditions.

 
heads up man, it is not a 1500 watt amp it only has 2 25a fuses on it allowing a maximum of 50A of current draw. let's say your amp is 80% efficient and you have a stout electrical setup running a solid 14.4 volts with no drops. so amps x voltage = watts, than watts time efficiency give you a final number. 50 x 14.4 = 720 watts, but your amp and no ones amp is 100% efficient so real world efficiency might yield 80% so that puts your amp at 576 watts RMS @ 1Ω load. i'm giving you the facts that clearly you and others lack. I am not bashing you, just educating you on facts. not saying that Power Acoustik is a good or bad brand, they are just mislabeled on actual output. that 576 watts RMS that I gave you is being nice b/c your amp is more like 60-70% efficient and your car probably holds voltage around the 13.8-14.1 range and drops to the 12.6-13.2 range on bass notes.
You can draw up to about 1.5x the amperage of a fuse without blowing it. But this amp is probably around 700w

 
You can draw up to about 1.5x the amperage of a fuse without blowing it. But this amp is probably around 700w
so you telling me that a 100a fuse will allow a surge of 250a before the fuse pops? so for the last 15 years I've been in car audio I've been doing it wrong. I guess all the times that I fuse a 100a wire with 100a fuse I should have just used a 75a fuse. Next you're going to tell me that all the Boss and Pyramid amps put out rated. why don't you go find me a legit amp that actually puts out that 1.5 x's the fuse rating with the rest of the math I did? you can't b/c it doesn't exist. it's 3rd grade math and you're telling me that all the amps out there that have 50A of fuses can put out 700 watts of legit RMS power.

 
so you telling me that a 100a fuse will allow a surge of 250a before the fuse pops? so for the last 15 years I've been in car audio I've been doing it wrong. I guess all the times that I fuse a 100a wire with 100a fuse I should have just used a 75a fuse. Next you're going to tell me that all the Boss and Pyramid amps put out rated. why don't you go find me a legit amp that actually puts out that 1.5 x's the fuse rating with the rest of the math I did? you can't b/c it doesn't exist. it's 3rd grade math and you're telling me that all the amps out there that have 50A of fuses can put out 700 watts of legit RMS power.
MMats. Any other high efficiency class D amp. You're not going to have a constant draw of the amps max power, especially not on music. Short surges during music will not blow a fuse unless it's approaching closer to twice the fuse's rating.

/argument

 
MMats. Any other high efficiency class D amp. You're not going to have a constant draw of the amps max power, especially not on music. Short surges during music will not blow a fuse unless it's approaching closer to twice the fuse's rating.
/argument
noob, go look at the fuse ratings on those amps and than at the RMS ratings. none of those amp rating are close to 1.5x the fuse ratings. all are close to the 10x the fuse rating that I gave the math on earlier. some of those rating are slightly above the 10x the fuse rating b/c they give there ratings at 13.8volts but none are close to that 1.5x that you are giving b/c the math doesn't add up. get a calculator.

 
noob, go look at the fuse ratings on those amps and than at the RMS ratings. none of those amp rating are close to 1.5x the fuse ratings. all are close to the 10x the fuse rating that I gave the math on earlier. some of those rating are slightly above the 10x the fuse rating b/c they give there ratings at 13.8volts but none are close to that 1.5x that you are giving b/c the math doesn't add up. get a calculator.
Did you even look at MMATs? 60a fuse for a 1000w amp. Thats over 13x the fuse rating. I believe you're the noob here. Don't start name calling when you have no idea what you're talking about and spouting off information straight out of your ass.

 
Check your grounds, also what ohm load do you have your subs wired to?
You may want to understand electronics a bit more before you offer advice that end result could end up blowing someones expensive system

your a begginer man

we all started there but its best to learn before you start giving advice.

just saying this noticing your replies in some other threads.

 
Did you even look at MMATs? 60a fuse for a 1000w amp. Thats over 13x the fuse rating. I believe you're the noob here. Don't start name calling when you have no idea what you're talking about and spouting off information straight out of your ass.
dude your worse than yahoo answers

every time i scroll through a thread your answers get worse and worse.

you dont know anything about electrical components or voltages other than your exceptionally cheap quality hifonics amp.

 
You may want to understand electronics a bit more before you offer advice that end result could end up blowing someones expensive systemyour a begginer man

we all started there but its best to learn before you start giving advice.

just saying this noticing your replies in some other threads.
I've frequented many other forums. I admit I don't know everything, but I know my fair share about car audio from reading and research AND real world experience.

 
dude your worse than yahoo answersevery time i scroll through a thread your answers get worse and worse.

you dont know anything about electrical components or voltages other than your exceptionally cheap quality hifonics amp.
Ask any professional on this forum about my post on fuses and they will agree. A 60a fuse can handle approximately a 90a current in short to medium bursts without blowing. 60a is the amperage it will take indefinitely without blowing. Fuses do not blow the second you go one ampere over their rating.

Example: any car audio competition with people using fuses much smaller than their amp is rated for. Notice how the fuses don't blow during burps (unless it's just entirely too small)

 
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