Porting my sealed box.

pd298
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
Would it be possible for me to use some aero ports in my box? I'm talking of the box in my sig.. Its 3.4 sealed, and I have always wanted to port my subs, but cant fit a box any bigger than that one. If i could use those ports...how hard would it be to mount them and how many would i need?

 
depending on the deminsions of the box and placement fo your soon-to-be port(s), you shouldn't have much of a problem. seeing that you have a pair of 12's, i'd would go with two 4" ports. the cut out for them, i believe, is about 5-5 1/2". if you decide to go with two ports, you will need to make them longer than if you only had one. like i said before, the length (or going with 1 or 2) will depend on placement and depth of your box. they do recommend the flar edge to be as far away from the box wall as the port is wide, in the case 4" from the box wall, i have put them closer with no problems, and you need to keep the back end at least 4" from the back of the box. when installing them, they also come with their own formula to cut them to lenght...due to the flared end coming into factor. if you look on partexpress.com they have "precision ports" for a good price. if you need any more help, lmk.

 
This is also in a single cab truck.. so there is only one way the box can face.. i figure i'd cut the holes and mount the ports on the top of the box.. how long are these ports exactly?

 
Would it be possible for me to use some aero ports in my box? I'm talking of the box in my sig.. Its 3.4 sealed, and I have always wanted to port my subs, but cant fit a box any bigger than that one. If i could use those ports...how hard would it be to mount them and how many would i need?

I wouldnt do it.......i would leave it sealed.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eyebrow.gif.fe2c18d8720fe8c7eaed347b21ea05a5.gif

 
what tuning freq. are you looking for? here is an example of the lengths....

for the box (assuming that you took sub displacemednt into account when you mentioned 3.4cu')

-@ 28hz your port length would be 24.6" with the flared ends and 19.6 with out

-@ 30hz your port length would be 20.6" with the flared ends and 15.6 with out

as you can see, the higher the tuning freq. the shorted your ports will need to be. knowing the freq. is a key factor.

the reason i gave measurements with and without the flared ends is because you will have to cut the middle section to the smaller number i gave and then add the ends to get the larger number. i did take into account port displacement for these figures.

i know that 2 4" ports is skimpping on port area, but you want to go with the areo ports and i figured that this would work the best for you and not take up that much displacement. this way too, you can put them inside the box...provided you have the room like i stated before.

if your box has enough room, on the top side i would imagine since your in a truck, you could add 4 4" ports on the outside of the box. the advantage to this is you can add more port area and you won't have to worry about taking up displacement inside the box. although it will not look as nice, you will have 4 4" tubes sticking up from behind your seat. but, if you dont' care, this would be the best way to go.

 
oh yaeh, also remember that you need to add 4" to the total port length. so if you did go with the 28hz and the port was to be 24.6, then your box would need to be at least 28.6" tall. but if you did them on the outside of the box, this would not matter.

also, these ports only come so long. 12" inner piece and with the flares come to 17" total. in that case these numbers i posted before would not work. the lowest freq. you could go is about 32hz.

is there any reason that you don't want to go with a slot port?

if you did, let's say at 32hz, you could have 40sq" or port (10" x 4") ((don't know if you need quite this much)) and the port would need to be 16.4" long and your box would be trimmed down to 3cu'. doing this you have 40sq" of port rather than 25sq" with the areos. you'd only loose and extra .15cu' of box volume and add a ton of port area.

i don't know the deminsions of your box so the 10" x 4" is a guess...going by your pic i guessed the box at 10" deep.

again, knowing the deminsions of your box and your desired tuning freq., would make things a lot easier.

 
Chuck Norris used to be in the beta version of Street Fighter,but there was a glitch, he kept doin round house kicks so they took him out, they asked Norris about it.....he said..."Thats no Glitch"

I didn't think it was possible to port a sealed box, because if u port it it requires more air.

 
so your looking at 3.4 before any displacement. i'll estimate about .25cu' for each sub will make it 2.9cu' after they are in. if you really want to go along with the idea of porting it, i can get you some numbers. however, being so small, the sq will not be good. a box that small would need a very large port to bring the freq. to an acceptable sq range (usually between 28 and 38, i usually try to stay between) and will make the box smaller yet. i was under the assumption that sub displacement was already accounted for. personally, i don't care if you port it or not, if that's what you want to do, then so be it, i'll help. i guess the reason going with the areo ports is because it would easier to put them into an already made box. like it was stated befor, consider putting them on the outside of the box to save on box volume. lmk....

 
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