porting an interveted sub

evo2k3
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I have been building boxes for a few year now, But i have never ported one. I have currely got a 12w7 inverted, my question is this:

I would assume I can still port it the same way as any other box right? I know nothing about the number of ports, diameter or length (i think shape is a question as well). Someone refer me to an FAQ or tutorial on porting? Includeing somewhere to get the parts (flaired ends, pip extension....ect).

 
unfortunatley....i haven't the slightest clue what the "normal" way is, more specific quetsions:

round ports....right?

what diameter ports?

how many (i assume 2?)

how to calculate port length (JL recomeds tuning the box to something like 32hz?

tricks of the trade to prevent things like wistling and other unwanted noise?

anything else I need to know?

its amazing, i have build 14 or 15 sealed boxes, but never learned a **** thing about porting. Thanks experts!! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Well, slot ports are generally easier because there is less chance of port noise(whistling etc.) JL probably recommends a certain size port and length. Usually the manufacturer recommendations are for daily drivers with decent sound quality, and they usually offer 2 or 3 different sized boxes. If you are planning on competing in SPL comps, you'll want a bigger box than recommended and a bigger port. I recommend you call JL and tell them exactly what you want out of the sub and then let them tell you how big the box should be, tuning, and port size. Good luck.

 
so i was calulating the port length....originally for 4 x 3" ports and they get way to long for my box, so i found using 2 x2" ports creates a port length around 7 inches (perfect in my setup) i could prob just do one 3 or 4" port as well, what are the advatages to having more or less cross sectional area, or fewer ports? is there a rule of thumb that says one way is better? last question, how acurately do i need to cut the ports, am i going to have to cut and that file down the end untill i get it perfect (then file to round the ends) or if my port is 7.75" inches can i just cut it with in 1/16th or so?

 
i am leaning more twords a slot port now, and jl suggest it for the w7.....does a slot port always need to take on the "L" shape? it seams a bit simpler to make this type of port....but if i wrap the carpet around the edge, does that change the size of the port enough to change the tunning?

 
ok....screw slots...im going back to round......how do i calulate the speed the air is coming out at? these are the specs encase they help:

2x2" pr 1x3" port(s) ?!?!?!?!!? someone decide for me!

volume: 1.77 ft^3

tune freq: 32hz

someone had a website with a port length calulater on it....lost the link though?

 
Originally posted by Jmac You're going to need a lot more port than that //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

5" diameter looks about right ... I doubt you could get away with a 4" ...
could i do something will like 2x 3" ports? 1 5" port doesn't fit asteticly in my system, but i want spl/sq over looks....if i had to i could make it work.

 
Are you sure you have a W7 inverted? From what i have seen of those if you invert it you will smash the surround. and to mount it you would actaully have to drill a screw through the surround. So pick another sub to tell storeys about.

 
Originally posted by mwess Are you sure you have a W7 inverted? From what i have seen of those if you invert it you will smash the surround. and to mount it you would actaully have to drill a screw through the surround. So pick another sub to tell storeys about.
ok *******, first off you obviously know less than me about this. yeah i do have a w7 inverted, i will go ahead and enlighten you as to how JL tells you to do it. you build your stanard box, whne cuuting the hole for the circle you make it the diameter of the outer most mountig ring on the sub, so the whole sub clears it (if you left it like this is would just drop right through). now you make you 1" baffel for the sub, mount the sub to it and then glue, silicon and screw the baffle to the box so the speaker suround moves in and out of the larger cutout in the orginal box. so pick another dumbass to try to call on there bluff.

 
ok jmac you gave me these ssuggestions :\

Area of two 3" ports = 2(Pi)(1.5)(1.5) = 14.137 square inches

Area of four 2.5" ports = 4(Pi)(1.25)(1.25) = 17 square inches

Area of five 2" ports = 4(Pi)(1)(1) = 15.708 square inches

Area of one 5"port = (Pi)(2.5)(2.5) = 19.635 square inches

but said i would want at least 16" of port area, would the 2x3" ports (14in) create a noticable diference in port noise? secondly, how do i calulate the length they need to be, im pretty sure that they are going to need to bend around and ****, so what do i use for all of those bends, i was thinking just use 3" pvc all the way, but i dont know what i would put on the surface of the box to finish it? please include the equations for calulating port length (btw im woking with about 1.95 ft^3 before port displacment.)

 
I was being an *******, and i really thought you coulndt invert that speaker, ive seen them a few times but never inverted, and i looked at the mounting thing on their website. What you said to do to invert it makes sense and i will think twice before i question someones setup...

 
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